One man struggles, whilst another relaxes

Its bitterly bitterly cold in Sheffield at the moment. All week it's been super cold, but there's this freezing fog hanging around, and things aren't as mint as you would hope for 'not raining and cold'. The roads are all wet and v.slippery from the frost melt. I actually think it might be too cold for the school at the moment! honestly, that building - too hot, too cold! there's a very small window of optimum condition - and its warmer than it is now...

So, last night I hear from Foley that Ned has done full power! fantastic effort. This guy is going so well and has a very positive energy. I fully expect him to go on to greater things. He is super keen, 15 years old, strong as an ox, but sadly a ginger. I wonder if there is an offset grading scale for giners?

As if that wasn't enough, I missed a call this afternoon from Dr Pinch himself. A very breathless but excited Ed Robinson babbled that he has finally closed his Zoo York account! superb effort from another underachieving super power. In many ways I think it means more to have put in a lot of time and effort when you do something, as all that investment has paid out - and its a great feeling. I would love to be in his shoes tonight!

On the other end of the scale, one cripple and one punter went to the board today. The cripple attempted to see how much weight the ricketty weights bench could support in his campaign to bench a mini metro, and the punter failed on everything, gave up climbing (couldn't feel my feet) and did some hanging, using the new greatest contraption ever - the gymboss. Waddage to Dylan for this hot tip, its a split interval timer which allows you to set a work and rest period. For example, if you wanted to do 10 second hangs with a 30 second rest, it beeps when you should change state - and, increments a rep counter, so you always know where you are. Awesome knowledge - get them off ebay. Mine was £17.99 inc postage.

Anyway, well done to those who did, and must try harder to those who didn't.
Back to the fingerboard for me!

Secret Thursdays

I took Thursday off work. Had holiday that had to be used up by the end of the year, so figured I would put it to good use and go to Rubicon. You'll probably think me insane for trying, but I had to go and look. However, its rained a lot recently and the crag was completely flooded. Dammit.

There's something red (burnt orange) leeching into the water from somewhere. You cant really see it on that picture, but anyway, back to the car and off to Cratcliffe.
Very cold. Try to warm up, but there's verglass on all the tops so no actual topping out. Pretty much sack warming up, figuring that T Crack isnt that physical - I'll go and get stuck in. Fall off slapping for top pocket. Go and look at where it actually is rather than where it looks to be and hold it, it feels scrittly - like the grit has been wet. Risk life and limb teetering round the top to give it a brush. Next couple of goes I am there but am a bit scared. Back off. Decide to stop fannying around and suprisingly its execution is pleasantly easy. I dont know why I have had such a whitey on it. I think i have been physically capable for some time, but just havent done it. Ah well. Its done. The moves are entertaining, and it climbs well, but I dont think it will become a new favorite or anything.

Go and have a flail on Jerry's, but get a cold numb pump. Drive off to Calver crossroads for egg and chips and then finish the day up at Curbar.
Early in the day I was thinking about going to look at brutal arete at Stanton moor, but I had heard it was high and then I remembered walk on by at Curbar, which is a problem I would super like to do. However, I left it too late in the day and just did strawberries and trackside, then gorilla warfare and early doors. Had a lovely day out. Bit frustrated at Tsunami, but I think the water level might recede and it might not be over yet... Am even considering investing in wellies and a tarp, and doing it with some kind of floating start...

Christmas and the anti training effect

I so hate having to come back from a lay off, so I never stop training. At Christmas every year I tell myself I will have a big rest and that I don't train, but actually I do. I probably over compensate for over eating. No will power, that's what that means. Don't eat so much in the first place. I think I am afraid partly of climbing crap in front of people, and partly because it feels good to climb well. And I don't mean because you look good, I mean because it just feels nice when you are on it.

The Blogosphere

I love the term 'blogosphere'. Its straight out of the sunday papers. When I used to be the UK news editor for 8a.nu I used to delight in writing tabloid headlines for climbing news pieces. I would like to have fabricated interviews with the climbers... Perhaps I will do - I have never been demoted, so technically I am still able to edit. Anyway, the blogosphere... Since James has been off work with his fucked paw he has been trawling the blog and texting me highlights, so far the plums seem to come from Scotland. From a manic depressive who has falsely inflated impressions of his abilities, and more amusingly from someone who saw Sharma climbing in total silence... until Josh Lowell turned up, and then the shouting started. If ever I meet Chris and we go climbing and he starts with the yelping, I shall pull from my bag a rounders bat. When I lower him back to the ground I shall sharply smack him in the teeth with it. I hope this is true (that he doesn't yelp when not being filmed), if it is it is genius. Those young punks in the british team have been made (motivation unclear) to create a website, some of which you will find linked here. The latest of these is young cheekbones himself - Masonic Dave. Bless them all. I saw him and Paul at the board on Monday where I had taken Garry and Dylan - who are coming to swiss with me and Ed Brown (crazy solo trad king) in Jan. Hopefully we are on the cusp of booking flughafen.

This time I am going to be focussed. I am going to have clear goals (didnt I last time?) and I am going to get them done. Hopefully I can go this year with hard skin. That was what was wrong last time.

Anyway, Joe and Vik were back. Lovely to see them both. They have the holiday blues. I get this after a chuffing bank holiday, so I cannot begin to imagine how this feels after 3 months off. Rubbish. Joe hasnt lost any of his school psyche but sadly I didnt notice vik go for a single wee during the time they were there. A sorry state of affairs.

Right. Got to go. Me and the monster are going out for a walk. Its minus 25 so I need to get my long johns on. Oh, and I have booked flights to canada to continue my role as the founding member of the Tim Clifford fan club.

Christmas is coming

I last wrote on Thursday, and I so wanted to be better. For the most part I was, but still a bit flakey and weak. Friday came and with it sleety death rain between spells of sunshine. Saturday morning weather was like the end of the world, so I went to the board. First session of feeling human again and although I took rather more goes to do things than I would have liked, I did do my 'mileage' circuit. Hop a long foley joined us to hang like a bat.

 

Didn't go to the Works party on the Friday. Mainly because I had been ill all week and didn't feel a full shilling, but partly because I wanted to climb on the saturday. As I don't get all weekend to climb, I'm loathe to jeopardise the prebooked session I do have. Spoke to Dylan last night, he and Lu went but there wasnt even a sound system until after midnight! God knows what went on there.

 

Sunday was still a bad day in weather terms, so I dont reckon anyone will have gotten out in the Peak at all this weekend (save Adam for a walk!). Hopefully his (Adam's) long range weather forecast will hold true and it will be nice this week. Climbing tonight at the board, don't really know then about the rest of the week. Will be quite organic I think. We got our Xmas tree this weekend. It looks fab. I love christmas.

A solid poo

At last! its been an 'orrible week. Being ill in such a fashion that you cant do anything is deeply unpleasant. Even twisting and turning whilst walking around the house has produced bouts of biliousness, I haven't felt like texting anyone as have had complete sense of humour failure. Rubbish. And, its taken ages to clear. I don't know whether thats because I haven't been rehabilitating myself properly, but only today - Thursday (4 days on), have I started to feel more or less normal.

I had my first solid poo for days yesterday, so I rewarded myself by arranging a trip to the Works to meet friends. There's a new blue circuit which I delighted in doing all of. Didn't fall off once, which is a good thing, because I think they were supposed to be max font 5. I have never completed a full circuit of problems at that wall before, and it was fun. I enjoyed the climbing and it was probably all that I could have managed to be honest. I had to rein in my enthusiasm towards the end as the harder problems looked more inviting, and I wanted to rush off and get stuck in. I don't think it will replace trying as a training strategy, but under the circumstances it was just the ticket.

Pretty much back to normal this morning. Bit more gaseous than usual, so be thankful you are not confined in the school with me. Planning to avoid the works comp. Don't know about the evening do - depends how I feel. The monster says Club Sssh is a full dive. I am keen to climb on saturday, but I don't know whether this will be allowed. Doyle has been on and might be about.

Wonder if kudos is dry...

EdinBlobber

Climbed on Wednesday night at the climbing works - circuits on the training board. Tuesdays, Thursdays and the weekends are busy times at climbing walls, I suppose because most people climb Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday Sunday. I dont climb Sunday so I'll usually do Monday, weds, thurs and Sat.

Anyway, I was all excited on Wednesday as it was the start of a mini break to Edinburgh with the monster. We had taken Thursday and Friday off work, booked a flash hotel and organised train tickets. It had been a particularly unpleasant busy week at work last week too, so the prospect of doing anything else was welcome. The train was busy, and our booked seats were together, but across an aisle. She was next to a very talkative man who clearly thought of himself as a genius. Thankfully, he was only on until Leeds. It takes just shy of 4hrs to get to Edin, but there are nice views out when you get to the county.

Arrived at about 1400, shouldered our bags and tromped off to the hotel. It was a great day to be in Edin – really crisp, clear and cold. Hotel was lovely, checked in and dumped the bags and pretty much went straight back out, first stop – the castle. Its £11 to get in, but is pretty cool. Meandered around there as the sun was setting – and the temperature droppingthen wandered back down the royal mile to town, to buy hats from the xmas market and drink mulled wine. Walked to the Mussel inn on rose street for tea, then a bit more moseying, final wine bar stop and home to bed – v.tired. Time about 2000.

It rained on friday. Enjoyed full scottish breakfast and hit the shops. Bought loads of xmas stuff and walked down to about half way down leith walk. Got the bus the rest of the way to the foot of the walk, where we found the flash restaurants the guide recommended – Martin Wishart ('Edin's #1 foody experience', v.exp), the Shore (gastropub, exp) and Fishers (fish, exp). We werent very hungry so we went to a cheap pub between, which was nice anyway. Leith a bit grim in the rain. Bus back to town, bit more noseying around and then home to hotel for a rest and shower. 30^th November is St.Andrews day so there was loads of stuff happening in Princes st gardens, which we missed due to being in bed. Headed back out at 2030 for tea. Intention was to go to the living room, george st, but when we got there it looked a bit like a posh yates. The woman in Space.NK had recommended the italian next door, so we tried there but they had an hour wait for food. Just as we were getting despondent we noticed a thai rest. called Time 4 Thai, which was recommended in the book – and was lovely. Big feed. Very nice. We always share what we get and half way through we swapped plates. She enjoyed two thirds of mine and then chomped into a chilli. A really hot chilli! que lots of water drinking and fanning face. Bless. Only by the time we left could we laugh about it!

Saturday was a better day in weather terms, and our last day in Edin. Still felt full, but pushed on and had the full breakfast in the hotel (well, you have paid for it!) then out into town to drop the bags in left luggage at the station. Continued to the royal mile where instead of going up to the castle we walked down to holyrood park – the home of arthurs seat, which is best described as an urban hill walking experience – v.bizarre. Climbed Arthurs seat – her in heeled town shoes! and returned via salisbury crags. Took about an hour and a half. Very pleasant. Shops and town horrendous on a Saturday, so glad to be out of the mix. Spot of lunch and a bit more noseying around then to the station to get the train home.

Sunday was a catching up day. Went to the works for a couple of hours, and got involved with a pink harder circuit. Surprised myself by finding it quite easy, but a link problem. Sometimes I assess things as being too hard for me without actually trying them. I think in my head I think I wont be able to do it, then when I get through the bit I thought I wouldn't do I am left flummoxed. What I am capable of and what I think I am capable of are two quite different things. Perhaps it all relates to this idea of not thinking about things as you climb – empty your mind and focus on the moves (man). Popped to Waitrose on the way to pick up the monster (yet more xmas shopping!) and bumped into first Adam, who was buying assorted bread rolls, and then Char whose deer stalker jacket so stunned me I forgot to look at his shopping. Made tea, everything fine, and then the world ended.

Well, not quite. But I woke on Monday feeling fucked. Dizzy, sick and generally horrible. Phoned in to work. The Monster was fine, so I dont know where it came from to get me, but it did. Basically couldnt do anything all day yesterday. Horrible. Still feel shaky today, but am delighted to report have had a solid poo at last.