School respiratory complaint

I am outnumbered by Vodafone people at the moment. As they're a third party, my usually lax professionalism has to be temporarily hidden, so I haven't been writing as much as normal. Its their last day today, so normal service should be resumed tomorrow.

Monday night was the foundry comp. A bit harder than the last round, although I did think I was going to flash them all until I went through to the board. The one harder problem was a beauty, but considerably harder than anything else that had been set. A better comp is one where theres a good spread of harder problems, but I suppose this means that they've realised that theres only a couple of people operating at that level - theres no point setting loads of hard problems to separate them. I flashed a problem on the wave but topped out rather than finishing on the finishing hold. Got straight back on it and finished it properly and it was easier, plus, its only the foundry comp so I'm having it. Back briefly to the board one I didnt do. A good deal harder than anything else, I flashed to three moves from the top and then spent another three goes getting to the top but not sticking it. A very good and very hard problem. Didn't do it at all in the end. Ned did turn up, but didn't enter, and anyway - he had only done one other round and couldnt have beaten me anyway. Yay! So thats it for comps for another year. Which is nice.

Been so beautiful outside at the moment that I had to rush out after work. Made it home by 1600, and was at Burbage bridge at 1620. Saw Dan Variable walking up the path and walked in to west chatting about his and Ned's font trip. Sounded like it was a bit warm at north, and west was better, but almost a bit verglassy on the nose top out. That was on roy's mega list, so I got another one ticked off. Sam and Lu were out with another couple (the chap I recognise but couldnt name) and they were doing it a totally different way for shorties. Had a go on that way and it negates the long reach but is perhaps a bit more insecure. Did Not westworld. Went back to west side and after a few abortive getting everything wrong goes I was back at the top, wishing I trusted my right foot. All I need to do is have faith in friction, step left through and right up and go for it. Dan joins me and gets the second sidepull with his right, comes over with his left into the top one, runs his feet up and matches the top hold before moving smoothly back left to the jug. Pretty impressive layback smearing that looks terrifying! Give up as the light is failing and want to go and do the arete just behind it. Its scary. Get to the top but am completely convinced am about to meet my maker at several points. Dan says it does you good to be scared now and again. Have a quiet shudder out of sight on the way down. Get involved with an unpleasant wall thing to the left and keep sticking the top but sliding back off it. Its very non classic, and I dont think I will rush back.

Nic forwarded on a mail from the council which contains bad news for the school :
"I are not able to offer any firm end to the current temporary closure of the buildings (we forecast 3 to 4 weeks from the 15th January). I am waiting for Kier to provide us with a timetable for removal of the asbestos found in the boiler room.  This is, due to HSE rules, a process that can take a number of weeks.
In the meantime I have confirmed with the Council's senior Health and Safety adviser that the building will be completely secured by us so no-one may gain unauthorised access.  I will re-confirm this to all users as we know that access to the centre is being regularly made, contrary to warnings in the recent letter that we reserve the right to permanently exclude anyone found entering without express permission from us to collect belongings."
ASBESTOS! whoa! First I've heard about asbestos. Wouldn't be suprised to learn that this will be the end of the school. There may not actually be any asbestos, but they now have their legit reason to close the building. The result of this is that the other tenants are moving out - weakening the support for the campaign to keep it open. All in all things dont look good. That said, there are other meetings coming up, maybe I am being sceptical, but I can't help but think we would be wise to start the search for alternative premises.

Following Mr Bennett's latest installment of bad luck he is on the hunt for a new car. Quite an exciting, unnerving and time consuming process to embark upon. Has to be efficient as Nat drives to Wakey every day - and in my eyes this means diesel. Golf mk5 are a good car and should just about be in budget. Seat's are cheap but cheaply built - expect leaks, trim to be poor. The smart money is on a skoda fabia vrs. But, its a skoda. I would try to push for a golf I think - plus, with Paul's luck - they are dead safe. Older 3 series with 80k on might be worth a look, but expensive maintenance, and I think he thought it would be two big (imagine those two midgets rattling around in a three series!), so I think either Fabia or perhaps the fast diesel astra - the two door ones look great. Thurlby in leicester do a chipped 200bhp one. And, they're cheap as chips when you break em.

dick williams

Friday is, as Roy agreed - a good day for resting. Saturday means real climbing, and in order to give myself the best possible chance of success on Saturday - Friday should be spent relaxing. Things at work have been rather fraught over the last month or so - pressure to deliver our wireless infrastructure is reaching a peak. When I go home from work I stop thinking about work, but even if the stress is indirect - i.e. other people are stressing about stuff, it rubs off on me and I can't help but feel a bit strung out too. Friday night then, we went to see a shit film called Water Horse. It was bad. 45%. Childrens accents very poor, about all I can say that I liked of it was the imagery of Scotland which was ace.

I meant to write something about Roy's Terminator training programme. His central principle is that I have built a top heavy pyramid (of power!), by training and training and training. I've built up strength that outweighs my technical prowess - I am good at climbing on the board, but I will flounder on onsights and on new rock types. This is true. I see this manifest as my being stronger than necessary to do problems, but taking ages to work out what to do on them. By taking a step back and building my technique base I may take two steps forward. I have, for the first time in 15 years of climbing, got a longer-than-a-week structured programme. I've always had a plan roughly for the year - summer, longer stuff and weights, winter boulder boulder boulder, and I've also always had a loose plan within the week - Monday = board, hard climbing problems, Wednesday = climb, socialise - hard climbing problems, Thursday = training, climbing specific exercises, volume or stam circuits, Saturday out. Now I have two month  phases to concentrate on - designed to produce a peak around trips and in time to achieve goals. Right now, we are in a volume phase until the end of march. Shouldn't be trying really hard things, more building up skills doing lots of easier things.

I'd read in the week that Rubicon was dry, and you will know of my ongoing siege of Tsunami, so I had intentions of heading down there - which is exactly what I shouldn't be doing! I kind of wanted to go, but didn't know how I'd be climbing, and didn't want to fail. Opted to stay local, hang out with Busby and go out on the grit - after all, Roy's programme is only going to work if I follow it - its all about the discipline! Busby was up and out early doors, questing aimlessly through the woods trying to find the secret garden. What a lovely morning. Following the approach path through the trees I became mesmerised by the sight of a bare chested Busby flitting between the boulders... Hadn't been to the secret garden in years. Did a 6b+ to the left hand side, followed by a 5+ that I nearly fell off, then had about thirty goes on another 6b+ that is clearly 8b. Never done beachball, and that's a bit of a classic, so after a few flounders from us both, I work out a new method and put it into practice to succeed. Do something else to the right thats steady, and then we move to Dick Williams - which the guide proclaims as one of the best problems of its grade on grit. High praise indeed. Its an amazing feature - a lovely rounded arete starting off powerfully, and becoming increasingly technical the higher you go. I remember the joy of bouldering with someone of similar abilities, each of us opens an individual move, slightly refining the sequence for the other one and before too long its looking like its on. The bit firmly between my teeth, it could be either of us at this stage, and I tell myself I don't care who gets it first, but I do - I want it to be me! Some guys turn up and Busby has a fantastic effort and I really think its in the bag for him - don't know why he doesn't succeed (probably letting go) but he doesnt. Our iterative sequence refining process has drained us and at our attempts move from being close to sketchy, our skin's wearing and we're getting tired. Joe and Vicky turn up. Vicky has just done Blind Alley. She's tres nonchalant about it but must be stoked - effort! Busby says game over and puts his trainers on, and I decide it really is my last go - I have to be home and my attempts are getting worse. Pull on, climb well - taking all the holds just right, and I stand up into balance at the top - it feels well scrittley, I'm sure I'm going to slide backwards into the chasm, but manage not to to get the tick. Feel dead pleased! Feel mildly sorry for Buzzarella whose fought hard but had it slip away at the last minute. Next time beast!

Spend the afternoon being productive. Fixed a dripping tap, do some diy stuff and make a lasagne to have for dinner with sister and fiance on sunday. We go to the top of the mayfield valley to look at the stars, and she finds the seven sisters. I find stars mesmerising. Years ago, we had a night in cyprus where we lay on sun loungers in the middle of nowhere just looking at the stars for ages. I think they're incredible. I suggest we buy a telescope - she takes the piss, and we end up deciding to remove the bed in the spare room to make way for a massive train track. Me being the conductor and her role playing a passenger. We stop talking nonsense to go to the Cobden view with friends.

Sunday is another gorgeous day, the cat is up early and really insistent that we get up so our lie in is cut short. Do some more housey stuff, walk to get her car back and I pop out on my bike for an hour. Sister comes round about six and lasagne goes down a treat. Too much red wine flows, fall in bed tired out at 10.

Tonight is the foundry comp final round. I think I read that Ned is with Variable in Font, so I might do ok! now I have written that a legion of beasts will turn up and I will be last. At least I think I will do ok on the whole series. Tomorrow Leeds wall, Wednesday Foundry - routes, thursday maybe the works, friday off - saturday gritstone greatness. And Finally... it feels great to be doing all these problems Roy has set for me - as I can actually do them, and do them quickly. Not only is this reminding me of the joy of climbing, but its possibly helping me build skills! Feel massively positive about it all today. its been a good weekend.

Worksout

Blimey. Had my first session back last night. It's rather different climbing at the wall to climbing outside - more physical. I enjoy climbing on the works' comp wall - it is good, but its totally different to climbing outside. Even compared to roof climbing, the holds are smaller outside and the comp wall is more gymnastic. Probably mutually exclusive too. Felt boxed after two hours trying the new problems, managed a couple of the Black Pearl's scarpa affairs but waned fast - indoor fitness clearly lacking. Strong but unconditioned to indoor action.

 

The current crop of problems on the comp wall are really quite good. Talking about the black pearl's probs - they are just like a BBC (british bouldering competition), some are shared problems for both men and women to attempt, of the ones of these I tried, I flashed. The men only ones are the next level so I fell off these, expending all my energy until all that was left of me was a crumpled heap on the mats. Hung out with that Boreal sponsored euro dude (turns out to be spanish) who is over learning english. What a nice chap. Can do a bit too. Chatted to Ed and to Aaron, both of whom were in good spirits. Typically, it gets busier and busier around 6pm. I was pretty much beaten by then and jetted at 1930 - a good hour after it would have been prudent to leave.

 

We are looking after our friends Si and Diane's cat Magic at the moment, so I popped in to feed him on the way home. I dont know why I'm imparting this essential information to you, save that it highlights that our cat Heidi is definately a psycho. Magic will come and sit on you and purr, whereas Heidi is mercenary and only wants to kill stuff. She is better looking though.

 

The works' incomprehensible but charming manager Brian has bought the old PlanetFear server, which is to be reconditioned and turned into the works super server. So that's been removed to the development lab for its makeover - my cellar. Managed to squirrel it in before collecting the littlest honey monster from the Ball (drunk). Fed her, made her drink water and put her in bed.

 

Its another nice day in LS28 today. I have just been out to Caley (wet) and Almscliffe (pretty dry). I was walloped from last night and everything felt hard. Had pitiful attempt on keel, getting right hand to the hole thing but wilting unable to top out. Dismal. Having tomorrow off.

Future of highballing

Check this out :

 

http://www.downstreammedia.net/TheRangeLife/Video/mattnet.mov

 

at first I thought it was going to be some sort of climbing snuff movie.

back to work blues

I'm at work, which means I blog by email - so I can only link in the pics by URL. I might correct these later, but you might just have to live with it. Sure you'll cope.

 

Quite crap these to be honest, didn't take nearly enough, but when I'm climbing, I'm climbing - not titting about with my camera. Except that when I get back I always wish I had titted more. Anyway, here they are :

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/benmorton/sets/72157603850513375/

 

Felt walloped yesterday, and am taking until Wednesday off (training I mean) to allow skin to recover - still sore to the touch. Got to be something I can do to harden the tips before going the next time. Been a good trip, had a good time, don't feel too bad that I didn't do more to be honest. I knew I was climbing well before I went, and I know I could have done more but for the various set backs, but that's ok, I dont feel I was robbed, or that I wasn't good enough, just that things conspired to thwart me. In the past, its been that I wasn't up to it, and this time I think I was but other things happened. I have high hopes for the next time!

 

I thought about what Roy said whilst I was away. One of the reasons I love switzerland so is because the climbing is basic. I think he might be right and I have shortcutted my way to where I am - missing climbing skills on the way - look at my ascent of 'les cliques a claques' - I was more than strong enough to do it but had to have as many goes as I did because I had to use trial and error to refine the sequence enough to do it. When I finally did it, I had had about a million goes and was exhausted. Were I technically more competent, I would have sorted the sequence and done it much quicker. I refer to Stu Littlefair - 'you're not technically incompetent, but you are a sequence idiot'. The thing is, I have known this for ages. But I like training. I like being strong, I dont want to loose that - I've got things I want to do on the board! which makes me quite nervous about re meeting with Roy to discuss whatever he thinks I should do. But we'll see. I need to recognise that perhaps its worth taking one step back to take two steps forward...

End point

Bergamo airport is really bad.

Dylan woke up this morning full of my cold, fed him and put him back in his pit. Cleaned the house. Weather bad. Much rain overnight - all roads v.wet.

Sorted the house out by half ten and drove up to cresciano. Lots of euro cars and vans in the car park, but not a soul up in the woods by the blocs. Everything soaked. Hardly a dry hold anywhere. Walked up to la boule area and looked at la proue. That foot hold is terrible. Walked back down and returned to the house to rouse dylan and pay ma stilhart. Sorted all that and left an hour ahead of schedule.

The motorways were all dead until milan and we made it to the car hire return thing in 1hr50. Sorted all that out and now waiting to board plane in 45 mins.

Its been a funny old trip. I trained specifically, fought hard, but it didn't pay off! First day at chironico dylan strained his shoulder on tomahawk and walked into a tree, I found that schule des lebens thing - got all excited and split a tip. So damn close though. Had I had someone else there to show me I really think I could have done that in a session. Never mind. Finished that day with a go on le pilier failing twice on the top jump. Next day I rested, the sun came out and it was boiling. Felt good about the world, sunning myself and reading on my pad. Ed did vol au vent. Tuesday I had filthy lurgy, but we went to chironico when I really should have stayed in. Looked at shark hunt, but had no enthusiasm for anything, did arabald and dr med dent. Next day I stopped in, dylan bust his ankle on I'll partner and ed did it. Next day dylan stopped in and I went wild at chironico. Friday we all went out to cresc but I had terrible skin. Dylan nearly did la pioche, ed did la boulette, I repeated 7b's I'd done before and did a new slab thing (new to me). Didn't do owt today.

Wished I'd not got ill and had tried shark hunt. Don't think I would have done franks or serre without armfuls of beta or a team to push me on. A catalog of errors. Great accomodation, great freeview soft porn, great company, food etc, but dogged by mishap and illness. There's definately value in going as part of a large group for collective psyche and beta. 6 out of 10 for trip as a whole. I'll be back. And would have no quarms about coming back with these two - at the very least we all got on well together. Boarding now. TTFN.

So, I write at the end of not the greatest climbing day in the world ever, but it rescued itself and I ended up having fun. Last night we met with ed's friend dieter. Definately a cool guy but with quite a dour outlook especially considering he's a full timer - living a nomadic life in his van at all the worlds best bouldering spots. Smelly feet the like of which I have never previously encountered, fuck me - I gagged when he took his shoes off.

My skin is dreadful. weeping through all tips, two worn down to flesh, the rest not far behind. Terrible. Don't know what I would suggest in future to harden them up, not climbing on smooth wood for weeks before probably.

Weather has crapped out at the end of today, so I don't think we will be climbing tomorrow. Other things I forgot to mention - looking at backgammon and cave of wolf. Shame they finish in the middle of nowhere. Frederic bricol looks good. Dylan nearly doing la pioche before a pole in bad jeans (from the market - 10€) stopping play. Thoroughly terrible pointless attempts on franks, and ed doing la boulette. The intention is that I come back and say something else about these, but we'll see. I may well forget. Am beaten. Almost hoping it does rain tomorrow!

And finally - a word of sympathy for paul b. News has reached us in switzerland that poor paul has been victim of a car accident leaving him with yet more broken bones! Clearly, the only explanation for this incredible run of bad luck can be that in order to shortcut his way up voyager, he sold his soul to the devil. Get well soon mate. And stay indoors!