I'm quite drunk, and writing from my blackberry, so I will be brief. Was scared today. Vowed not to ever come sport climbing again. Did 6b on styx wall with jon. He's been great partner by the way, has placed drawers in everything I've been on so far. Anyway, went up to reve after that and he had a go. Hated it. Fully didn't get into it and I expected to be the same. Not so. It was right up my street, busted out a sequence and lowered for a rest. Really think it could be on! Cooled down too much before next go and pumped out straight away. Super sharp pockets cut in, not at tips but in soft fleshy bit of finger. Feel hands getting chewed up. Lower off and rest for less time, put in fab link and actuall think I might do it, but crucial hand slips and I genuinely fall. Feel dead psyched, as know it could go down, but battered, and with sore hands.

Jon and I head round to fissure surge, which is one of Ed's recomendations, the boys have already got it equipped, so I get to have a go on a top rope. I struggle through the sequencey lower bit, but crush the hard final jump to the crack. My hands feel sore! Jon has a redpoint, and he climbs well but fails just before the jump. I go again on top rope, but hands are too sore.

Watch Nic attempt a 7c+ but he falls. We all head home. Am drunk. Good night.

Day 1 in buoux

Man, what an early start. Got up at 0345. Collected jon and Nic, down to east midlands for 0500 - so tired. Anyway, Neil mawson was on our flight. He was going out to join Dan walker, at first I thought he said he was going to meet his dad or something. He wasn't.

We arrive. Its 0945, there's only one terminal and one baggage carousel, which is great, everything is off in perfect order and real quick. Ryan air must hate flying here because they can't fuck it all up for you. Roy and I have both managed to loose our hire car and such like info. I have my blackberry, so I can retrieve everything, and its not too much trouble. Anyway, we collect the cars and hot foot it to Apt. We (me, Nic and jon) go shopping and then meet them at the crag.

I'm still in a strange head space with respect to routes, I feel a bit scared, or perhaps, I don't and was just really tired today or summat.

Anyway, we start at sector scorpion, there's a 6a crack which Nic directs us to, its great having a sport climbing hero on the team, he romps up everthing at light speed and knows where all the classics are and where everything is. We do a 6c to the left, and I just want to go to sleep, but its brilliant and I love the climbing. The best thing about it is that the pockets are positive. So although the moves between them might be quite hard, the holds you get too are all quite good. Which reinforced my confidence, I think it gives me the fear when I have to use slopers and I have to clip off them and stuff, but not here, here everthing has positive edges. Its well bolted too. You clip, do some hard moves then you cover some easy ground before clipping again. In other words, all the hard bits are just above bolts so you feel comfortable going for it.

Its pretty hot in the sun, so we move round to the tcf section, I don't want to climb but jon clips up tcf and I have to have a go. I have a great time. Its well within my limits and its just what I need, I need to push it and be climbing above bolts to get my confidence up. Anyway, I have a good battle and get it done and we move to Dresden, which is immeadiately left. Its really run out but I get it done and am delighted. We head home and have a nice tea. Going to bed now. Night.

feral Sausage pants

Yesterday was manically busy in work terms, although not so manically busy that I didnt take a lunch break at the climbing works. Probably shouldnt be climbing this close to a trip, but I dont really think this is a trip, its more a mini break.

Ed Brown called on Wednesday and gave me a list of things to do, some which are hard (ulp) but some of which are reassuringly easy. Apparently the routes are likely to have very bouldery low down cruxes with a bit of rumbling above - which sounds great, and completely like everything I have ever done!

Bought that 80s birth of extreme film from the Foundry on Wednesday, and have stuck it on my ipod for psyche (and something to do on the plane). Its a very early start - got to be at the airport for 5am, so am going out with her for early tea and few pints tonight, as I will lie awake worrying about missing my alarm unless am medically put to sleep. Hope I feel allright tomorrow, although - I think I am basing how I think I will feel on how I felt that day I had to go to London and didnt sleep the night before. This is different though, I was stressed about going there, and I'm really looking forwards to this trip.

So, climbing gossip - Wednesday night I went to the Foundry. Felt like I was rubbish, only really, I made that judgement after about 2hrs climbing, so think I was ok, just tired by then. Hung out with Joe Picalli - always a pleasure, James Foley, his mate charlie whose sirname I dont know, and Justin Plumtree! blimey - Justin was civil! I've always found Justin a bit of a strain to get on with, it always appears to me that he's only interested in his own advancement and that he really doesn't like me. But, climbing with him on Wednesday was fine, he was good company and I got some new problems to do from him. Tom Pape also in attendance, although sulked off when there were too many people on the board. Its interesting that the hard problems on the wave feel a measure easier than the easy problems on the board.

Its certainly true that each of the three boards in Sheffield have very specific styles to them. Its no good specialising in any of the three as that just leads to being good at climbing on that one. Will we get back in to the first and foremost board? no developments to report there. I dont think it looks good. If the school does remain closed we have to get another board going - and soon. I think I'm missing the angle (of the 50) these other boards aren't as steep, and they have their good bits, but that one was special. Le Sausage has a plan to buy a property which has some sort of suitable outbuilding attached, and to move the boards there. I dont care where it ends up as long as it does. Bring back the board! It would be interesting to have a session at the school now, to see how (if) I have weakened. Talking of the Sausage, Ed Robinson found an old episode of On the edge with a full page spread of a long haired Sausage questing up the cromlech (think its the cromlech), he looks like a 70s Yosemite hero, running shorts and wild feral boy hair. Brilliant. Certainly a cut above his UKC y-fronted photo debut :
Anyway, other news - Westie climbed three grit 8a's last week. Waddage. I think I should have opened a climbing wall, then I could bust out the big grades when it suits instead of commuting and working like a dog. Ah well. Keith has busted out another 8a+ in font too, and seems to be going from strength to strength. I presume this is just from the climbing mileage, and that whilst he is there he cant be training like a shirehorse?

I don't feel jealous that these guys are doing so well - I think its great that I can count them amongst my chums. Everyone's level seems to be on the increase which is good, I just hope it doesnt lead to strengthening the gravitation of the UK grading black hole!

The Cliffords are back this weekend. Am going to try to meet up with them next week.

Easter bunny

What is it about holidays that make me eat more than usual? I've been really good lately, but all that goes to pot over any sort of national holiday. Something about the collective psyche of the nation that makes us eat like pigs when not working. Perhaps this is the root of the obesity problem? Anyway, its felt like a great easter - a mini christmas in March.

 

Started strong with a meal in Thyme cafe with Helen and fiend on Thursday night. Tipsy.

 

Friday we cleaned the house, sorted stuff out and went to my parents for dinner - Tipsy again. I was on call and did get called at 0200, resulting in an hours work on Saturday morning whilst everyone else slept. Headed home via Ikea, dropped her at Meadowhall and continued on to the Foundry, meeting Leo, doing a bit on the board and buying new Arcteryx pants.

 

She and I went to the cinema to see The Spiderwick Chronicles. Its good. A kids film for sure, but I like kids films. I dont usually want to be tested when I go to the cinema - after all, I do it to relax. Its good - about 75% from me.

 

Easter Sunday - more cleaning of the house, then to the outlaws for tea - more massive gluttonous over eating, but lovely. I love cheese. Which is a bit of a vice, as cheese is pretty much congealed fat. Her dad always says the cheese at the end is the best bit of the meal. Especially with port. Mmmm. Drunk. We went to bed early doors - so were bright as buttons the next morning. Which started with another big feed - breakfast. Arguably, my favorite meal of the day, I love nothing more than a greasy fried breakfast. I suppose its because its so wrong - forbidden fruits and all that. Bought some insulation from B&Q and headed home. I climbed again (foundry, with Ed and James) and she went to buy a wedding outfit (for my sisters and Andy and Shiv's). Drank wine that evening and stopped in catching up on Corrie.

 

Yesterday, Tuesday - we were still off. Sigh. I love holidays. Attempted to fit this insulation, only to find that actually, there was already insulation there, and by god it makes you itch. Fitted some round the thin bits and took one of the rolls back. I dont think I like building jobs. Went and had a quick nosey at potential wedding venue out near dronfield, and then managed to coerce her into going to rubicon (to look at cressbrook hall). Its pretty dry. Hmm. Wondered what the tor was like, but got fully overruled and ordered home.

 

So, back to work today. Foundry tonight, and Buoux on the weekend. Ulp! bought that 80s - birth of extreme thing as preparation. Watched the Buoux 8c bit, which looks good actually. Weather out there is amazing! some showers today, but av temps through the week of 20degrees and wall to wall sunshine! Shall have to dig out my thong back climbing pants!

Beginning of another siege?

Been a bit of a funny week this week. Felt tired all week. Can only imagine this is due to a heavy drinking weekend, which I'm just not used to. Anyway, its been raining, and there's not been much to tell to be honest.

Monday - Foundry, reasonable session - climbed ok. Think I might have seen Helen's ripped like a race horse ex, but wasn't completely sure, so kept getting caught staring. He will either remember me and think I was giving him evils, or he will think one of those gay bouldering types fancies him (is a trad devotee). Its moderately interesting - this is a guy who spends more than all his time climbing, thinking about climbing and going out and yet he still fails to move fluidly. My point is, although he hasn't been climbing for years and years and years, he is still missing the basic skills. And, his is an apprenticeship earnt outside - trading. Perhaps its not the be all and end all! Perhaps some people just don't get it ever?

Wednedsday - after work Caley. I thought it had been completely dry for days, but apparently there was some rain on Tues. Looked mint walking up, and almost was - but for a bit of clinging damp, not really to the touch, but friction was patchy. Things facing the direction of Otley were ok, but other shielded-from-the-wind stuff was a bit distantly wet (i.e. it had known wetness). I've had such bad skin of late I decided to anti hydral in the car on the way, and I now think a half hour application is perhaps better than leaving it over night. It did the trick as far as I am concerned. Warmed up, picked up some youth buzzing having just done New Jerusalem, and headed towards Syretts Saunter (I think) which looks super thin. Haven't ever been up there before, so had a bit of a look around, and did a lovely 6c+ that involves rocking into a scoop off a pebble. Don't think it has a name, but it climbed nice. Moved to Ben's Groove. Sauntered casually up to the crack on the slab and met my usual impasse. I have no concept of what you do with your feet at this point. I just cannot move! Try a few things, but none of them bear fruit and I move again to Zoo York. It feels really really hard tonight. I can't make any of the foot locks work, and after an attempt to do it from standing which ends in a horizontal dismount, I get the fear and decide to sack it. This youth wants to do Blockbuster, so I suprise myself (and him) by busting out an ascent without any fuss. We walk down to something called Style arete (I think) and get involved with that. Both get an ascent. He goes home, I do some other bimbling stuff and head off. Time in the car when I get to it - 18:48. The clocks go back in a week and a bit - roll on evening action!

Caley is a frustrating place to have an obsession. It seems perpetually damp. I am psyched for Zoo York - the line of the crag? but it feels so hard! I think I need a spotter who is a known entity. I want to feel I can go for it without any fear creeping in! Ed reckons if you know how to pad it then its ok with two pads and on your own. I don't think so Mr Robinson! perhaps if you have a power surplus and it feels allright then maybe, but for me, absolutely balls out - its desperate. Mighty fine effort crushing this awesome problem.

Damp student squid

Been a busy weekend, but not in climbing terms. In climbing terms, this was a good weekend to have off - as it rained almost constantly. There was a big student comp on Saturday, Ned won (like there was ever any chance anyone else would come close!) nice one beast - and thanks for making me not look a fool by bigging you up! it got a mention on Vernon Kay's R1 show on Sat. Not specifically Ned, or the climbing, but the whole weekend of student sport. One can only imagine the city's traffic cones are now all in student flats throughout S11.

 

That meal on Friday went really well. If anything a bit too well. We got leathered on red wine. Suspect I was still drunk in am. All day saturday hangover. Went to the outlaws and I had to get her to drive, and go to bed in their spare room when we got there. Rubbish. Watched the kite runner in the evening - very good.

 

Still felt vacant on Sunday, although managed to drag carcass to the Foundry for a couple of hours in the evening. It was like Ladies night on the board - Vicky Hurley, Joan, Helen and Emma Banks. Tried my best to show off but felt shaky and a bit rubbish. Will be there again tonight. Going now as need a poo.

Beasted by Busby

So, its friday, and the forecast is for the end of the world esque weather at least for tomorrow. Not much to report, certainly havent managed to get out the last couple of days, but here's what I can tell you :

 

Wednesday - met busby at the wall for a beasting. Acheived aim with aplomb. Full body pump. Not ached the next day for ages (obviously havent been trying hard enough). Ended session getting burnt off by teenage girls. Nice. Felt a bit scared again doing routes which is a worry. Need to toughen up!

 

Thursday - car went for a service. Long standing coolant leak problem may now be fixed, which is nice. Biked to the works. Felt beasted still. Saw Sam, Simmonite, Cofe and Ned on the way home. Cycling very hard. Tired. Ipod Touch arrived - its good.

 

Friday (today) - Leeds wall. Chatted to Ben Meeks, felt strangely strong and good - think I am light at the moment, although skin is terrible. Tonight we have a meal with some friends, but the couple we are meeting are normally see with other people friends - not spent any time with them one on one ever before, so bit cautious on that front. Should be fine. Can't get drunk though, as tomorrow its her dad's birthday and we are going over there for lunch with them. Possibility of saturday night cinema, and then hopefully (maybe, just maybe) climb for some time on sunday. Sunday night we are in leeds for dinner with my sister. Much eating then this weekend. I will not be svelte on monday!