This snow is deeply inconvienient. And quite boring. Because of it my friends in Sheffield (heretherafter referred to as Team Sheffield) couldn't cross the snake pass. There are of course other ways to get to Manchester and head westwards, but the key thing here is that when you are making a day raid, you need to be fast. Think alpine style - travel light, travel fast! So, yes - you could have gone over the woodhead if you were absolutely desperate to go, but in a there and back in a day that adds unwanted time to an already long journey. If I had been in Sheffield I wouldn't have bothered.
I had a meeting in Leeds - or so I thought. If i went at all i would be toddling over on my own, and possibly bringing someone back. But I reckoned without the might of a metric tonne of Jim. The key time was 1130, i'd spoken to team sheffield through the morning, prayed for the snakey to open and all but given up hope, then at 1125 I thought, 'I'll just see what Jim is doing' and rang him. He coerced me into going to his house and he would drive from there. I'd somehow become fixated that I would have to drive myself, and its a fuck of a long way on your own. This changed everything. Blazed a trail to Jims, met Lee and nestled into the back of his car. The irony is, my meeting had actually been cancelled - I hadn't needed to go to Leeds at all, so really I should have been at home and therefore not going, so it was all fated to happen...
Not driving is a revelation! As a climber, many of the people you will find yourself sharing cars with will of course be other climbers, and the thing about them is that they hate spending money - usually because they dont have any. Which means, if you then have a better car than the people you are sharing a journey, you will often find yourself driving. I have a shit car (i hate it) but compared to some of the rust buckets I am offered rides in, its like a Bentley! Jim's car on the other hand, top trumps the Chavstra - it even has wipe clean seats in the back (I mean leather).
Like last week, the journey was one made on the strength of the llandudno webcam which showed sunshine. From the pennines east it was minky. From there west it just got better and better. So much so, my cave aspirations were overruled and I was dragged to the mountains. The rules always used to be - if you can, go to the mountains. If you cant - the coast. But then you get all obsessed about the cave and the mountains dont matter much anymore. The thing with the cave is that if you have a basic level of strength the moves are just brilliant. Anyway, we start at the traditional warm up Cromlech roadside. Its a bit wet to be honest, but there's a fair wind whistling down the valley and if anything, its getting drier. Diesel power is wet, the Cromlech roof crack is wet. It is f'in cold. We sack it to Jerry's roof.
There's two youths already camped out. One of whom is on Mr Fantastic. He has a bit of a wack sequence, but its not stopping him - he actually looks like he might do it. We chat - nice lads, and then muscle our way in and get started. Or rather, me and Jim do. Lee has pronounced it too cold and is fully covered back up. I've previously climbed the amazing Jerry's roof, but not any of the other problems on the block. I want to do Mr Fantastic really, but its 8a+ and I dont expect it to be possible in a day (I am not Ned), and, it finishes up Bus Stop - which is the sort of grade I would expect to be able to knock off in an afternoon. I get involved and after a bit of fannying around and jessery, I strip things back to basics and do the problem. Although theres an argument that says I should have been trying Mr F, this I knew I could do, and its better to get something in the bank I think.
Jim inches closer and closer to Jerry's roof. He is falling off at the swing (crux) and being able to continue from there to the top. Nodder phones, Lee arranges that he bring us coffees. I feel a bit like I might have had too much red bull, but anyway - a hot drink would be nice. Youth unknown continues to put in good links on Mr F, he's falling off into Bus Stop, so with a bit of refinement....
If I had a specialist subject within climbing, it would be the shoulder press. Mr Fantastic involves a massive one. Its probably the crux. I think I manage the move on my second or third go, and then its because I've sorted out my feet better. Hmm - this is exciting! Anyway, I keep doing the move but not getting out of it - there's a swing to hold, and the youth (bless him) has a wack sequence. Pete Robins turns up. He has a much better sequence. I can now get out of doing the swing. End the day because it is going dark, and I am wilting, but have done it in two halves. Projects are funny things, you wait for one for ages, and then three come along at once!
We go with Pete and Rach to the Vaynol arms (great pub) and have a quick pint before driving back first to Jim's and then home to Sheffers. Brilliant day.
Thursday, 25 February 2010
Tuesday, 23 February 2010
Dreams of a Snow Cave
You know that feeling when you know you are missing out on something? horrible isnt it. However, you could either wallow in self pity and whinge on about having missed out or you can move on and try to forget about it. I knew the others were going to be out on Saturday afternoon, and i also knew that karma would rub my nose in it by having them arrive in the car park as i left. Ah well, as I said...
First up to the plantation on Saturday morning. Felt pretty fresh, a bright gritstone mega day? dunno whether it was just me, but I thought things were prone to dampening - i.e. it would look and feel dry, but repeated use of a hold resulted in its blackening. Yet it didnt feel like there was moisture in the air, so perhaps it was dew point or something. Anyway. I started off at Jerry's traverse. I dont know why i bothered - this really is log. Went up to GT and the snow on top had now started to melt and the holds were wet. Went and did pebble arete a couple of times - having to hand traverse along the lip as the top was a snowy death trap. Padded along deliverance slab and gazed at the top. Except for that I have a witness, I wouldnt believe i'd done it! Skip the Ace and move to Back in the YMCA - still 8c. HTY has a big wet melt streak and some irritating student types are sat on the edge : "oh gosh, johnny - a rock climber" etc. I scuttle off to the Pit. Its dry - amazing. I'm intrigued to try this in solutions, having only ever done it leading right hand first and in 5.10s. It feels like cheating! on my second go I get the jug. Amazing. Have a coffee, couple more goes - trying to get it wired - its a good problem. Manage to make it work the left hand first way, and it is easier, but flexibility dependant. Classico.
I move to Silk. There's still a 3ft drift/glacier beneath it. You can basically pull on after the crux of the boulder problem, however, thats not the crux of the route - oh no. Its blummin thin and tenuous and high. I get up there, realise all of this and reverse down as much as I can before pad skiing down the hill. JLS and new dad Jon boy turn up. Guffawing ensues and I reluctantly start to walk down. Only to find Adam unpacking in the car park, then Edlog, jim, Dylog and Folog all arrive (separately - one car each!). Stay and chat for half an hour, already late leg it home. Spend all afternoon sulking - it really is a mint day. So, in report from the rest of them I understand the best effort is Folog repeating west side story at the end of the day.
It wasnt supposed to snow on Saturday night. I do hate impromptu bad weather. Stubbs and I were talking about pleading for a sunday pass, but there was no point. Bimbled. Went to the Depot yesterday. First full day on their board (when I say full day, I mean 'session'), and I really enjoyed it. Its very hardcore that board. Harder than the works. Set three new ones which I have mailed Olly for him to include. Will upload them when get chance later.
Tomorrow I have arranged a half a day flex. I have to come to leeds unfortunately, but should be free by 1130 and on the road to wales. Yes, its another cave raid. I just hope the cave doesnt let me down!
First up to the plantation on Saturday morning. Felt pretty fresh, a bright gritstone mega day? dunno whether it was just me, but I thought things were prone to dampening - i.e. it would look and feel dry, but repeated use of a hold resulted in its blackening. Yet it didnt feel like there was moisture in the air, so perhaps it was dew point or something. Anyway. I started off at Jerry's traverse. I dont know why i bothered - this really is log. Went up to GT and the snow on top had now started to melt and the holds were wet. Went and did pebble arete a couple of times - having to hand traverse along the lip as the top was a snowy death trap. Padded along deliverance slab and gazed at the top. Except for that I have a witness, I wouldnt believe i'd done it! Skip the Ace and move to Back in the YMCA - still 8c. HTY has a big wet melt streak and some irritating student types are sat on the edge : "oh gosh, johnny - a rock climber" etc. I scuttle off to the Pit. Its dry - amazing. I'm intrigued to try this in solutions, having only ever done it leading right hand first and in 5.10s. It feels like cheating! on my second go I get the jug. Amazing. Have a coffee, couple more goes - trying to get it wired - its a good problem. Manage to make it work the left hand first way, and it is easier, but flexibility dependant. Classico.
I move to Silk. There's still a 3ft drift/glacier beneath it. You can basically pull on after the crux of the boulder problem, however, thats not the crux of the route - oh no. Its blummin thin and tenuous and high. I get up there, realise all of this and reverse down as much as I can before pad skiing down the hill. JLS and new dad Jon boy turn up. Guffawing ensues and I reluctantly start to walk down. Only to find Adam unpacking in the car park, then Edlog, jim, Dylog and Folog all arrive (separately - one car each!). Stay and chat for half an hour, already late leg it home. Spend all afternoon sulking - it really is a mint day. So, in report from the rest of them I understand the best effort is Folog repeating west side story at the end of the day.
It wasnt supposed to snow on Saturday night. I do hate impromptu bad weather. Stubbs and I were talking about pleading for a sunday pass, but there was no point. Bimbled. Went to the Depot yesterday. First full day on their board (when I say full day, I mean 'session'), and I really enjoyed it. Its very hardcore that board. Harder than the works. Set three new ones which I have mailed Olly for him to include. Will upload them when get chance later.
Tomorrow I have arranged a half a day flex. I have to come to leeds unfortunately, but should be free by 1130 and on the road to wales. Yes, its another cave raid. I just hope the cave doesnt let me down!
Thursday, 18 February 2010
Everest
"But there are men for whom the unattainable has a special attraction. Usually they are not experts: their ambitions and fantasies are strong enough to brush aside the doubts which more cautious men might have. Determination and faith are their strongest weapons. At best such men are regarded as eccentric; at worst, mad..."
Walt Unsworth
Everest
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Walt Unsworth
Everest
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange
Caved In
There was a really good quote in John Krakauer's 'Into Thin Air' book (which I am reading at the mo), from Walt Unsworth. Sadly I forgot to pick it up on my way out, so you will have to wait for the wisdom. It basically says that dedication and commitment bordering on obsession could be confused with madness. But it takes madness to acheive great things sometimes.... Madness that could be vision! or could just be obsession. I will reproduce it later when I get home.
You'd have thought that after the debacle of two weeks ago when I went to the cave and it was rubbish that I would have been reticient to go again, and I suppose I was really, but the cave - she gives so much, her curves and the moves she demands are so alluring that the horror of that day was soon forgotten and once more I found myself recruiting for other cave hopefuls to share the dream. My companion this time was a chap from Sheffield called John Oldroyd. I'd met him in the cave with Kook before, and seen him at the wall from time to time. Seems like a nice chap, and keen for the cave which is the important thing. The day started cold and bright in Sheffield. I actually thought it too nice to go to the cave, and was trying to think of ways I could get out of going and instead get back on Zoo York. The devil on my shoulder was whispering "its nearer, much nearer, and theres a wall in range if its wet", but then in rolled the fog. I used the instant messaging infrastructure to find out that it was at least as bad in Pudsey (20 mins from Caley) and so it was back to the cave. All sorts of thoughts and conundrums presented themselves. I think had it been bad I would have sunk into a gross depression. But, my desires were stronger than my doubts and we set off. Super cold and foggy over the snake (-1.5 on top), bad all through manchester, bad fog still at Chester, Holywell..... then as we got to Prestatyn it started to clear - on the Orme the sun was out. I was frothing!
It is traditional to make an offering to the cave gods in the toilets of Llandudno Asda. We arrived at the cave at about 2pm. Its a fallacy to think this makes for a short session, as 3.5 hours in the cave is enough for any man. Its brutally cold and takes some time to get warmed up, but I feel like I am climbing ok - the cave gods have been satisfied with my humble gift. She's almost totally dry the old girl. There are patches of wetness, but with the exception of stuff like the first pinch on Louie, all the holds are usable. Clever beaver gets three laps, and i dont feel ready. The Hamer bros turn up. I have a few ranging goes on Broken Heart. Can't quite get the heel to work, but have a good link from the undercut into clever beaver. Bit more work gets me into the undercut but falling off going to the jug. Feel warmed up enough to try Trigger Cut.
Steal everyones pads and do my best to platform out the landing. Something about putting a super deep egyptian in upside down on slippery footholds at head height is scary. Have to have a bunch of goes to do the first move. The engram gets reawakened and suddenly I can do it every time. After working that out, i still have goes where I dont take the second hold quite right, and for me its a problem on which I cant afford such luxuries, although trying to push on I need it all to go perfectly. Get to the point where I am trying for the shothole, and like last year it feels blummin far away and I'm not getting enough help from the holds to be able to take a hand off and go for it. I slap at it, but its more like a token effort than a serious attempt and I never hold the damn thing.
John is trying pit of hell. It looks desperate. He does from a couple of moves in into the wobbly jug at the bottom of RA. Ed Hamer is trying Clyde. Which looks desperater. And high. Sam has a go on Upper Cut. We are all scared. Those two jet off up the road to the 'box. With less pads I'm scared of Trigger cut, so I give up and go back on Broken Log. Am getting tired. Get to end of Clever Beaver from the start. Know I havent got it in me to finish it.
John shows me an efficient way to finish Rock Attrocity. Having never done it I get quite excited. The problem I have with RA is that I am always boxed by the time I get to the end. I need a more efficient sequence. When Mina did it last year she had a cunning toe hook where I always just sucked it up. Yes, its quicker and yes you dont need the toe, but I wonder if it can help. Get to the end three times but am boxed. Give up, drive home - no fish and chip supper. You know the rules, no send no fish. A good day, and delightful to be presumably amongst the only people in the UK climbing outside!
You'd have thought that after the debacle of two weeks ago when I went to the cave and it was rubbish that I would have been reticient to go again, and I suppose I was really, but the cave - she gives so much, her curves and the moves she demands are so alluring that the horror of that day was soon forgotten and once more I found myself recruiting for other cave hopefuls to share the dream. My companion this time was a chap from Sheffield called John Oldroyd. I'd met him in the cave with Kook before, and seen him at the wall from time to time. Seems like a nice chap, and keen for the cave which is the important thing. The day started cold and bright in Sheffield. I actually thought it too nice to go to the cave, and was trying to think of ways I could get out of going and instead get back on Zoo York. The devil on my shoulder was whispering "its nearer, much nearer, and theres a wall in range if its wet", but then in rolled the fog. I used the instant messaging infrastructure to find out that it was at least as bad in Pudsey (20 mins from Caley) and so it was back to the cave. All sorts of thoughts and conundrums presented themselves. I think had it been bad I would have sunk into a gross depression. But, my desires were stronger than my doubts and we set off. Super cold and foggy over the snake (-1.5 on top), bad all through manchester, bad fog still at Chester, Holywell..... then as we got to Prestatyn it started to clear - on the Orme the sun was out. I was frothing!
It is traditional to make an offering to the cave gods in the toilets of Llandudno Asda. We arrived at the cave at about 2pm. Its a fallacy to think this makes for a short session, as 3.5 hours in the cave is enough for any man. Its brutally cold and takes some time to get warmed up, but I feel like I am climbing ok - the cave gods have been satisfied with my humble gift. She's almost totally dry the old girl. There are patches of wetness, but with the exception of stuff like the first pinch on Louie, all the holds are usable. Clever beaver gets three laps, and i dont feel ready. The Hamer bros turn up. I have a few ranging goes on Broken Heart. Can't quite get the heel to work, but have a good link from the undercut into clever beaver. Bit more work gets me into the undercut but falling off going to the jug. Feel warmed up enough to try Trigger Cut.
Steal everyones pads and do my best to platform out the landing. Something about putting a super deep egyptian in upside down on slippery footholds at head height is scary. Have to have a bunch of goes to do the first move. The engram gets reawakened and suddenly I can do it every time. After working that out, i still have goes where I dont take the second hold quite right, and for me its a problem on which I cant afford such luxuries, although trying to push on I need it all to go perfectly. Get to the point where I am trying for the shothole, and like last year it feels blummin far away and I'm not getting enough help from the holds to be able to take a hand off and go for it. I slap at it, but its more like a token effort than a serious attempt and I never hold the damn thing.
John is trying pit of hell. It looks desperate. He does from a couple of moves in into the wobbly jug at the bottom of RA. Ed Hamer is trying Clyde. Which looks desperater. And high. Sam has a go on Upper Cut. We are all scared. Those two jet off up the road to the 'box. With less pads I'm scared of Trigger cut, so I give up and go back on Broken Log. Am getting tired. Get to end of Clever Beaver from the start. Know I havent got it in me to finish it.
John shows me an efficient way to finish Rock Attrocity. Having never done it I get quite excited. The problem I have with RA is that I am always boxed by the time I get to the end. I need a more efficient sequence. When Mina did it last year she had a cunning toe hook where I always just sucked it up. Yes, its quicker and yes you dont need the toe, but I wonder if it can help. Get to the end three times but am boxed. Give up, drive home - no fish and chip supper. You know the rules, no send no fish. A good day, and delightful to be presumably amongst the only people in the UK climbing outside!
Tuesday, 16 February 2010
Apoopi
The fact that I was first to the plantation car park didnt make me feel good, or virtuous - it made me feel that everyone else knew something I didnt, that it would be rubbish and that I should have gone to the wall. It wasnt actually raining, but the roads were wet, and when I got up there so were the rocks. More or less. Snow on the ground, and atop the blocs, plus in cracks and where you would generally put your hands. It wasnt wet enough that I could, with clear concience, just go back to the wall but it wasnt going to be an amazing morning. Had I been out in the last few weeks I wouldnt have bothered, but as I'd been cooped for so long, i persisted.
A bit disappointing really. Had to towel off the Green traverse. Did it three times, then did it backwards twice, then did ron's reach, then GT there and back. This is a good warm up. Harris and Muesli turn up. They warm up, I go over to the Ace.
By jimeney its hard. Get a bit of knowledge from Haggis and Muse, but it seems to involve crushing the tops of your knuckles against the top of the crack, and is a bit unpleasant. I do the first move a couple of times, even managing to get my left foot out and round and into the crack by my hand, but being able to move out of that position and therefore into the joker start is going to be Hard. Note capitalisation. I realise I need to make specific fingerboard programme if I am to succeed.
Move to Help The Young. Actually, not to HTY, but to a Travs thing just left of it. Back in the YMCA. It looks well easy. 7B+ they said. All sorts of thoughts about Travs being generous flash through my mind, and I think I will just do this, then I'll go and get on HTY. Its desperate. Not only do I blow the flash, but I don't do it at all. Each time I end up scrunched up in the high pocket, unable to jab my foot over the overlap onto a smear. Its wierd, off balance and I feel a rubberised shin pad would yield more success.
I've done HTY before - from standing. Theres a sitter, which Adam showed me years ago. He made it look really easy, basically clamping the fin between his forearms. I couldnt even pull on. But, I had mentioned as much to Sam and to Arthur Haggis and they suggested an alternative method (and that Adam was a gimp), which I tried and managed not only to move, but to almost do two moves. Got quite excited, but realised I had left it too late, warmed up too much and burnt all my beans.
Harris nearly does the Travs thing. I have another go, get no higher and sack it off home. As I walk down I see Sam and Lu, Ian and Percy. Two lovely couples holding hands. It starts to drizzle. Here endeth the weekend of climbing. It looked like Sunday was the better day, but when your slot is booked, you have to take what you can get.
Went to the board last night. The left hand side of Dowel Syndrome still resists my advances, but it WILL yield. Nearly did it on the right again. Get a new one off John Welford, who has had a week of sickness and claims to be weak. I want to be weak like you John! (legend). Will stick it on the wiki later. Later, much later, Sam and harry join me and do a bit. Sam looks well lean. We start talking about weight. He is roughly the same height as I, and is a full stone lighter. Shit! when I weigh myself at the end of each day, I am about 11st10lbs. Sam is 10st10.... Imagine if I was his weight? I would be awesome. Think its because i have done no CV exercise for months. Dont think I could sustain that weight for long, but could drop half a stone I would be bionic.
Finally, when I arrived last night I get chatting to Lu who, bless her, has swallowed the Accapi sales manual. I didnt know who they even were before, and I have to be honest, I am hugely sceptical. Basically its a baselayer type of long sleeved top about which some fairly outlandish claims are made. I havent read the blurb, or digested the science, but its something to do with metals and infrared? and by wearing it you recover better and it heals your injuries, and you will climb 8b... erm yeah. Fernando Alonso reckons it reduces G Force!!! so a t shirt reduces gravity? f*cking awesome! where do I sign? This has to be psychosomatic. Anyway, i would try it but the price is prohibitive - £150 for a t-shirt. Would be interesting to see if it works, but I have not the funds. Besides I would need a huge one to cover my paunch.
A bit disappointing really. Had to towel off the Green traverse. Did it three times, then did it backwards twice, then did ron's reach, then GT there and back. This is a good warm up. Harris and Muesli turn up. They warm up, I go over to the Ace.
By jimeney its hard. Get a bit of knowledge from Haggis and Muse, but it seems to involve crushing the tops of your knuckles against the top of the crack, and is a bit unpleasant. I do the first move a couple of times, even managing to get my left foot out and round and into the crack by my hand, but being able to move out of that position and therefore into the joker start is going to be Hard. Note capitalisation. I realise I need to make specific fingerboard programme if I am to succeed.
Move to Help The Young. Actually, not to HTY, but to a Travs thing just left of it. Back in the YMCA. It looks well easy. 7B+ they said. All sorts of thoughts about Travs being generous flash through my mind, and I think I will just do this, then I'll go and get on HTY. Its desperate. Not only do I blow the flash, but I don't do it at all. Each time I end up scrunched up in the high pocket, unable to jab my foot over the overlap onto a smear. Its wierd, off balance and I feel a rubberised shin pad would yield more success.
I've done HTY before - from standing. Theres a sitter, which Adam showed me years ago. He made it look really easy, basically clamping the fin between his forearms. I couldnt even pull on. But, I had mentioned as much to Sam and to Arthur Haggis and they suggested an alternative method (and that Adam was a gimp), which I tried and managed not only to move, but to almost do two moves. Got quite excited, but realised I had left it too late, warmed up too much and burnt all my beans.
Harris nearly does the Travs thing. I have another go, get no higher and sack it off home. As I walk down I see Sam and Lu, Ian and Percy. Two lovely couples holding hands. It starts to drizzle. Here endeth the weekend of climbing. It looked like Sunday was the better day, but when your slot is booked, you have to take what you can get.
Went to the board last night. The left hand side of Dowel Syndrome still resists my advances, but it WILL yield. Nearly did it on the right again. Get a new one off John Welford, who has had a week of sickness and claims to be weak. I want to be weak like you John! (legend). Will stick it on the wiki later. Later, much later, Sam and harry join me and do a bit. Sam looks well lean. We start talking about weight. He is roughly the same height as I, and is a full stone lighter. Shit! when I weigh myself at the end of each day, I am about 11st10lbs. Sam is 10st10.... Imagine if I was his weight? I would be awesome. Think its because i have done no CV exercise for months. Dont think I could sustain that weight for long, but could drop half a stone I would be bionic.
Finally, when I arrived last night I get chatting to Lu who, bless her, has swallowed the Accapi sales manual. I didnt know who they even were before, and I have to be honest, I am hugely sceptical. Basically its a baselayer type of long sleeved top about which some fairly outlandish claims are made. I havent read the blurb, or digested the science, but its something to do with metals and infrared? and by wearing it you recover better and it heals your injuries, and you will climb 8b... erm yeah. Fernando Alonso reckons it reduces G Force!!! so a t shirt reduces gravity? f*cking awesome! where do I sign? This has to be psychosomatic. Anyway, i would try it but the price is prohibitive - £150 for a t-shirt. Would be interesting to see if it works, but I have not the funds. Besides I would need a huge one to cover my paunch.
Friday, 12 February 2010
Zoo Log
Typically, the beautiful spell of awesome weather has been and passed whilst i have been at work. Thankfully flexi time exists, and was fully utilised yesterday to make a lunchtime raid on Caley roadside.
For years I have lusted after the prize which is Zoo York, and for years I have thought I needed a spotter and never really prioritised it as a goal. The problem climbs an awesome looking prow starting sat on in a bit of a pit which you climb out over the edge of. Theres a bit of a split level platform to land cock eyed across and because of this I've always shied away from really going for it on my own.
Anyway, with two pads and a bit of sense applied to their location, plus a pinch of just actually trying it to see whether you do indeed shoot off backwards down the hillside, I made progress. So much so in fact, that I went from not really thinking I was in with a hope, but going to work the moves, to actually being able to concieve of doing it (noone ever said I had a lack of imagination!).
I'd never previously held the hard stab off a right hand undercut into tape box edge (because I was worried about tumbling down the hill), but yesterday (with Ed Robinson's beta) I changed my feet, hence my body position, and found I could do the move. The move after that is ok - if your hips are in the right position, and from there to the top theres a hard cut loose to hold, and a wierd heel move, but its certainly after the meat of the difficulties.
Having now done the move for the first time I set the timer and clean the holds. In my head I could actually envisage getting to the top. Sense would suggest working the top to get it wired, so that if I got there from the ground I would know what to do, but being the top its also higher and the fall unknown. I'd be happy to get to and hold the tape box edge from the ground I think, and thats just what happens. I am well psyched. I have another couple of goes, wanting to get to the cut loose to see if I can hold that it in, but its tearing chunks out of my right index and I'm tiring.
Its good to have a project again. The only problem now is that I cant wait to get back there. I think I'd be suprised to do it on the next session (but it is possible with a trailing wind and favorable skin), but can reasonably imagine doing so on the one after that. And, all this whilst a portly 11st10lbs! I have to admit, I felt a lot of pressure going through my fingers swinging around on those crimps. 11st4 would see me at the top perhaps?
For years I have lusted after the prize which is Zoo York, and for years I have thought I needed a spotter and never really prioritised it as a goal. The problem climbs an awesome looking prow starting sat on in a bit of a pit which you climb out over the edge of. Theres a bit of a split level platform to land cock eyed across and because of this I've always shied away from really going for it on my own.
Anyway, with two pads and a bit of sense applied to their location, plus a pinch of just actually trying it to see whether you do indeed shoot off backwards down the hillside, I made progress. So much so in fact, that I went from not really thinking I was in with a hope, but going to work the moves, to actually being able to concieve of doing it (noone ever said I had a lack of imagination!).
I'd never previously held the hard stab off a right hand undercut into tape box edge (because I was worried about tumbling down the hill), but yesterday (with Ed Robinson's beta) I changed my feet, hence my body position, and found I could do the move. The move after that is ok - if your hips are in the right position, and from there to the top theres a hard cut loose to hold, and a wierd heel move, but its certainly after the meat of the difficulties.
Having now done the move for the first time I set the timer and clean the holds. In my head I could actually envisage getting to the top. Sense would suggest working the top to get it wired, so that if I got there from the ground I would know what to do, but being the top its also higher and the fall unknown. I'd be happy to get to and hold the tape box edge from the ground I think, and thats just what happens. I am well psyched. I have another couple of goes, wanting to get to the cut loose to see if I can hold that it in, but its tearing chunks out of my right index and I'm tiring.
Its good to have a project again. The only problem now is that I cant wait to get back there. I think I'd be suprised to do it on the next session (but it is possible with a trailing wind and favorable skin), but can reasonably imagine doing so on the one after that. And, all this whilst a portly 11st10lbs! I have to admit, I felt a lot of pressure going through my fingers swinging around on those crimps. 11st4 would see me at the top perhaps?
Thursday, 11 February 2010
Throw in the dowel
YYFY! (you know you've been indoors too long when you get excited about board projects!) Last night I did Dowel Syndrome, as shown in this pic :
However, strictly speaking, the other side has yet to be done, so it still technically remains a project. Never the less, I am pleased to have done one side of it.
One of the other two things I have in the pipeline at the moment is this :
Note the specific blue feet - ringed in blue. The lads do this without thumbs on the middle hold. I always thought I would allow myself thumbs until I could do it, then I would strip back the cheating. Oh, and at the top there are no feet. So when you catch 16crimpy2, you then have to campus to the bar. Didnt manage that, but did manage both sides with thumbs and an assistance foot at the top. Very pleased.
The final thing, which I still have two moves to do on, is this : 
still got moves to do as you can see. Ah well, happy days. Nice out today.
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