Thursday 20 May 2010

Tor-pedo

Sixteen degrees at half past six this morning. To be honest, it felt so humid that I didnt think the Tor would be up to much. Pulling on sharp tinies when your skin is saggy and the air thick with moisture is not a good combination. I arrived first (out of our team), jumped out of the car (this weeks CLR podcast is Adam Beyer, and very good, plus, like last week when there was a 9hr Speedy J set, you can have two hours and no Chris if you go to CLR, you do have to subscribe to a newsletter, but I suppose you could always cancel it) and felt COLD... Brilliant! My judgement wasnt far off though, it felt cold if you'd been sat still, but once you started moving shorts were required and the man boobs were out.

Jehovakill looks very dirty but almost totally dry. I mean to go and have a look at this, but question the safety of those nasty caving bolt things which are currently in place. Also, there dont actually look to be any holds! Well, I think I can see two from the ground, but not much between them. I put my rope on Boot Boys. First mistake. This is an Andy Pollitt route from the 80's which looks brilliant, but involves the ability to crimp on razor blades. And theres a move off a mono low down that I dont know how to do (I can only fit my pinky into it). After the mono theres a 6ft easy section to an undercut jug, then some scratching up the aforementioned death crimps. I can see where it goes but not really what to do, or how to do it. One to save for when its cold. Or at least colder.

Ed and I go on Rattle and Hump. At first it looks like he is going to static his way through it on the first burn of the day, and the first time he has tied in for ages, but he goes to the wrong hold and is back on the rope again. A good effort. I get excited for him then he reminds me he has actually done it before. I am less excited.

Foley and Rich are now in situ on a 7c which starts to the right of in brine but left of the toilet. It was really good. I shouldnt be so suprised. Folog managed to link it in a oner, but was on a top rope. I managed it in two halves. Good climbing. Had a quick look at the line to the right, which isnt the toilet? hot flushings? call of nature - that was it! again, feasible, but involves crimping razors, and my fingers were hurting. Apparently Emma Twyford has just done this - great effort!

So, that was that. Started to feel a bit more Tor fit again last night, as the last time I went it was pitiful and i couldnt do anything. Saturday looks doubtful. The parents are coming which is good from the point of view that I get taken for lunch, but bad from the having to be back in order to be taken for lunch. And anyway, its going to be 22 degrees apparently...

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