Friday, 29 June 2007
Since Mondays flood based debacle, I have climbed to the point of destruction! its been great! Tuesday I went to the board with James in the day and did so much volume I couldn't do chalk and blow at the end. Wednesday I had a late afternoon in the works. Ryan, Dave Barrans, Adam Lincoln and Tyler all knocking around (quite strong that Tyler youth - needs a shave mind) and again, I climbed volume to the point of destruction. Did some up problems before starting to flail on one of these traverses thats been created for the difficulty team - no hard moves, but lots of swinging around in the middle of a roof with minimal feet, anyway, RMan's mate comes in - oh my god! he is massive. Arnold massive - amazing, the last time I saw him climb he was rubbish. He had rubbish footwork but was very strong in a straight line. He pulled straight on to this traverse (as far as I could see) and blazed past my high point, right the way to the end, my eyes were out on stalks! a further battering for my psyche - he must be fit. Apparently he wants to climb font8a by the end of the year. Having seen his previous attempts at going up rather than along I would have said no chance, but in light of this most recent development, maybe its on!
Thursday I went to the board again, but was beaten from the previous two days exertions. Did some ring training and that was about it. Made a hilarious video whilst doing silly dancing which is what James' GIF comment refers to, here is a frame :
So, its Friday and that means the weekend loometh. I don't really know what to do tomorrow. Saturday morning is my Window of opportunity. She is working in Manchester, so like a few weeks back, I will take her over, and then go somewhere to climb. Given the rain of this week I dont know where that should be. On one hand I thought I could go to the cave but thats quite a long way, especially if I need to be back for 1600 (probably drop her off at 11), but is enough time to get beasted! Or I was going to go back to the tor, depends if its wet. Then there are all these new things at beginners wall, maybe I will go and have a look at them.
Tuesday, 26 June 2007
I left Leeds at 1500 with the intention of getting to the board for 1600. Got on the ring road, got turned away from the roundabout where the a6110 crosses the a58, as it was flooded. Fought my way out via gildersome and morley and then crawled back to J36 on the m1. Came off there and sat on the roundabout for 45 minutes (hardly moving) tuned the radio to bbc rsheffield and they were saying it was the end of the world.
The station had been evacuated, the winter gardens had been turned into an emergency refuge (apparently 900 people stayed overnight) and the road ahead (the a61) was knackered.
Northbound on the M1 was moving well, so I went got back on and went up to j37, barnsley. Joined the a628 with the intention of getting to langsett barns and going through strines to get on the snake and into SW sheff (where I live), but the road back towards stocksbridge (at the flouch) was blocked by the rozzers. Ended up continuing all the way to glossop, to switch back over the snake to get home! arrived at 1900. Rubbish.
I feel like going on a rant about the idiots taking over UKB. Its very frustrating. What used to be a forum of climbers and a banter has started to be dragged down by some idiot posters who are just random. And not funny random. For instance :
BenF writes : I find it hard to believe that Jamie found any sequence that didn't consist of simply avoiding all use of foot holds and relied on just campusing through the difficulty. Let's face it, he's done most of his hard climbing wearing a pair of Vans.
Fair enough, thats about right for Jamie Cassidy. So, someone called Richdraws writes :
Bloody hell!! Possible training progression for the training freaks...
Start with pull ups in rollerskates, work up to locking off with a pair of ford escorts, then campussing with vans?
Ok. Thats quite funny. Fair enough, but that should be it. But its not. BenF is back with :
Apparently Jamie is now working on doing Rockatrocity with a pair of forklift trucks strapped to his ankles. When he manages this it will be a major step forward in bouldering difficulty. No one has previously climbed this hard with heavy lifting gear attached to their body. One difficulty of this challenge is managing to hold the swing with nearly five tonnes of vehicle attached and little room in the cave to let the legs swing low.
Fucking hell. and it goes on, although I'm not posting any more tripe. And, r-man has apparently been claiming problems on the cemetary park boulder on his score card.
Monday, 25 June 2007
Saturday, 23 June 2007
Anyway, wasnt a climbing trip and as such no exercise took place. No exercise of any description! much drinking and eating and reading and having a nice relaxing time, and as a consequence I am now 11.5st. Before coming away I was 10.5st. This horrified me when I got on the scales at the board today.
Quick diary of the trip then:
Friday - arrive to alghero, collect hire car and barrel across island (its big - 140km from west to east) to villa - delighted. Its beautiful. Unpack and find a bar.
Saturday - nose around Porto Rotundo where we live and head up coast to Porto Cervo for a look around. Eat local - its expensive and not that good. Noone speaks english, or even understands when we point at things on menu!
Sunday - attempt to find local beach - fail but find one far away. Sit on it for a bit and go back to the villa to bask on own terrace - aaaah! peace! cook spag bol.
Monday - Drive to alghero in search of english speaking anyone! or at least people who will tolerate english speakers (wish had bought a phrase book!)
Tuesday - marinella beack all day. Lovely. Cook tea again (not spag bol!)
Wednesday - Drive south to cala luna. HM suggests the coast road which does not as its name suggests, afford one a view of the coast. Journey takes 3hrs and when we get there is shrouded in sea mist. Sack it back (on the motorway - takes 1.5 hrs!). Out for tea at lovely restaurant - la mangianotte. A wonderful meal, reasonably priced but beautiful food and an aging lothario of a waiter. Funny.
Thursday - Much time on terrace before eventually having a mooch around checking out restaurants for tea. Eventually settle on pomodoro (the tomato) which is ok if you have pizza (which she doesn't).
Friday - Bask in sun on terrace, head to airport at 1630. Home by 2330. (feels brilliant to be back in my car!)
So thats it. I have had a lovely time, but I have come back fat and weak. I know that if I put it on so fast I should be able to get rid of it fast too, but I hate being rubbish. Imagine my worst nightmare - going to the tor and being seen failing! head to board where fail to impress anyone and feel massive. Hope I can loose the flab fast!
Thursday, 14 June 2007
This week has been major climbing overload (as I am effectively having a week off next week). On Monday I went to the board but I didnt pull on (fingers hurt from sunday) instead I did some skipping, then called James who was coming down to train in the rings and diverted him to the pub. A wise choice. It was hot. Made a curry, went to bed (not with James).
Tuesday I went to the Tor with the mighty Foley to go and get back on Rooster Booster. It was well hot. Had decided on the way out to try and do Sardine (I TR flashed the straight version - tomato sauce is it? years ago, so I cant claim the flash but I have never actually done it) but there were punters already in situ, so got the pads out and got started. Good to see Joe Le Sausage who was bouldering on pinches wall with the guy whose name (I think) is Dale. Joe and I went to get on the traverses and I had a good lap on PB falling out of the last move for no good reason (again). Had a few goes on the Staminaband start, making it through on all but the first move when I got one of the undercuts wrongly, but the transition move feels about 8c. Its really hot and my fingers are probably swollen, and theres no friction! excuses excuses. Halfheartedly try Stamina Humps but again am climbing like a sac de merde and make no progress. Pure people have arrived by now. Adam Lincoln, r_man, Dave Mason, Tom and Rae and no doubt others whom I will have forgotten. Ah yes, Ted rupert bear. And Scut.
Sack bouldering in favour of ropes. there are now three lots of people vying for the first 10 feet of sardine. Ross Cowie (crumblefish), Not_Dan_Varian (in brine), spiros (can this be his real name? fantastic! - sardine)and James and I who are on Rooster Booster. It feels fucking desperate and I get nowhere. Not_Dan_Varian makes a sequence suggestion which takes the heat out of the first crux section. I can do it comfortably from sitting on the bolt, but I cant do it from the ground as I am pumped out of my mind and my fingers hurt. Ah well. Consign it to the bin for another day. Am keen to do it, as its quite fun. Strip the route (or rather, James does), and wander off up Sardine. I am pumped! I get to, but fall off the crux, then I have to shuffle from bolt to bolt to put the rest of the clips in. I am so pumped. James has a valiant effort but is also pumped and falls. He continues to the top, lowers off and I have another go. Again, I pump out just before the crux, try hard but have nothing left and cant get through. I lower off and he has a go, then me and so on until its dark and we are the only people at the crag. Its 2200! head home. Have a bit of food and eventually retire at midnight (or thereabouts).
Next morning I am tired. Work is ok and I head home at 1600. James gets stuck in traffic but we meet at about 1830 at the Foundry. Far from the heat of the day before, its fully tipping it down and quite cool. Dont even boulder, campus or anything. Its straight on with the harness and we are rumbling up really easy routes on the left. Have a great evening, ticking a bunch of steady but fun climbing routes and wander why I havent spent more time at the foundry over winter doing routes - they are great! Get involved with a fun green route in the main roof right at the end and its genius! swinging around in the middle of the roof makes me feel like I'm francois legrand! have a great time and sack it home at 2100.
So, its been a good week in climbing terms. The Honey monster is back from torquay tonight and its her birthday. I would offer to take her out, but I think she has people coming around to see us. No work for me tomorrow - am so psyched for the honey holiday! weather forecast is good out there! Was thinking about taking my blackberry so as to be able to write blog updates, but to be honest, I will end up looking at the emails on it and so I'm not going to!
Sunday, 10 June 2007
Drove past the cave and spied Mr Robinson, stripped to the waist and doing a few curls with his bag to get his burl on. Nearly crashed the car. Parked up and collected belongings. Walked back down with armfuls of stuff. Within moments Foley, Huffy and Dylan had arrived.
It was boiling.
Really - there was no sense in climbing, we should have gone downstairs (LPT) or just chilled our boots until evening. But we didn't. We were psyched, so we got involved. Huffy as good as did Lou Ferrino - amazing. He looked strong and able. I couldn't do a single move, it felt fully desperate! quite disappointed. Pulled on Rockattrocity and blazed out to the end - felt great, had loads left, adjusted, sorted the feet and fell off! damn it! it's these classic 7c's that I can't do. I can climb harder and easier, but not 7c classics. Rock attrocity and powerband are bogey problems for me. Got to the end three more times, all of them in complete control, but each time ended in failure.
Doyle and Mawson showed up and were going downstairs. Have a few goes on Trigger cut but don't really get anywhere. Manage to rouse some support for LPT and the team descend with ropes and gear (Tom Newman, Micky and Liam Desroy arrive at the cave). On arrival downstairs we weigh up Night glue and Under the board walk. They look good. The crag looks good - I am psyched, but at least partially spent. Decide to do Under the boardwalk which is 6b+. I onsight it, placing the clips as I go - its brilliant and I have a great time. Thoroughly enjoyable climbing with some fun run outs. Still not scared (which is good) and love every minute of it. Lower off and James adds his name to the list of flashes. Both agree its fully fully boiling and that trying mussel beach would be folly. Walk to the right and although the tide is imminent, get started on Night Glue. I feel pumped still - hmm. Hands are soft and red.
Night Glue is even better! Rumble up the incredibly sharp pockets to a massive undercut. Clip. Right hand up, no thats wrong, left hand up - oh I can't see whats going on here, I'll just campus to the next jug! do so and its all fine but what am I doing!? foot off campus dynos between holds are not generally part of the scenery on 7a+'s! continue on up and right and get to a nice rest. Chill my boots for a few minutes, but the sea is fully lapping at the heels of Dylan on belay duty and I can't see what to do! theres a rat crimp, but I can't see that that would be it! but it is! I have a bit of a go at the move, but it hurts, and my fingers feel way sore and I think - fuck it. So I slump back onto the rope and look at where I was going and just after the rat crimp is a massive sinker of a jug. Am gutted. Only had to commit to the move and that would have been it. Bloody onsighting. Thread the bolt and lower off. Run away before the sea gets us.
Back at the cave Micky and Tom Newman are still hanging out. Mickey looks well strong. I do LWT and am preparing to wait 5 mins for another lap when huffy announces plans to go to Pill box wall. Never been there so sack LWT in its favour. We pile the stuff into the cars and zip round the corner. The Pill box wall is ace! its no cave substitute, but it is in a lovely lovely place, set up above the road, just around the corner from Normans wisdom. A beautiful 260degree view of the sea is wasted on your back as you face the dirty crimps of the wall. Huffy talks us through Pill box original and the whisky bitch. Pill box org seems a funny problem that basically involves standing on the floor. I don't want to stand on the floor as it seems gay, (oh sheffield, look at what you've done to me!) so I have three goes where it feels like its about 8c (its 7a) before having the floor pointed out. Have even more goes where I abortively wobble off the top. Work out what to do and take a back seat for a minute. Dylan looks like he could do it, but his fingers are hurting, James is too busy giving the passing pleasure cruisers an eyeful of his wall of muscle that he doesnt do it either, Huffy keeps getting to the top but doesnt finish it, but thankfully I manage to haul my ass to the top for a team ascent.
Huff pulls the pads to the whisky bitch. He shows us the way, nailing to the cross through but jumps off before really trying. Dylan has a go and looks strong, but again, his fingers are sore and he jumps rather than falls off. I clean all the holds and reconcile a sequence in my head. I speak it out loud and Huffy confirms. The problem starts from a good left hand pinchy hold, right underneath. Right foot is far down right on a rugosity. You power up right to a crimper, left foot back on the hold your right hand was on and cross the left hand through to another good crimp. right foot down to a rail, jump right hand to a positive edge - catch it, body and feet swing round - its just like a board! - left comes in for the match - feels a bit like I might be off, but aware that this is the flash I try quite hard and nail it. Quick pop for the jug and its done. Pleased, but it did suit me.
All sack it to the triband (?) chippy for fish and chips before caning back home (1hr53mins to broomhill). A great great day. Climbing to me is more than just about the moves, its about hanging out with cool people in nice places. I feel happy with the world. Huffy and I put the world to rights in the car on the way home. Marvellous.
Friday, 8 June 2007
Thursday, 7 June 2007
Tuesday, 5 June 2007
As I arrived at the board last night I thought to myself that training in the rings was clearly a great idea when the weather is as hot as it is at the moment. The car showed 22degrees on the way through sheffield - it felt really close - not good for pulling on small holds. Hence training in the rings is a good use of time when its like this. Theres a new notice on the way in :
Didnt even put my shoes on - just got involved with the campus board. Managed to do 1-4-7 several times which is progress.
Then got the rings down and pushed on. Its really hard to motivate yourself to go that extra mile when you are on your own. Theres a definate tendency to let yourself off.
Some discussion and general keenness around Sunday in the Cave on yesterdays comments which is great! sounds like we might be able to muster a team... My situation/aspirations are thus:
I have to deliver the Honey monster to Manchester. She has a conference thing in Torquay which she travels down to on Sunday night. I will be on my Jack Jones until Thursday night, which is good and bad all in the same sentence. Good because I will climb every night, and bad because I will miss her. So, I will take her to Ashton for whenever she has to set off - probably 10 or 11. That puts be 1.5hrs from the cave (traffic permitting) so really, looking at being there ready to climb from 1300. The tides are good at LPT on Sunday - low water is at 12:19, so downstairs would be an option too....
So, if there are now potentially three people keen, Robbo may already be there and James and Dylan are keen to go? On one hand it would be ok to take others with me and it makes sense to share a car, but on the other hand James and Dylan could go earlier under their own steam - and possibly Ed may or may not have set out on friday and might also be driving over? Also, I want to see the Honey Monster off properly. What do you think? we definately go but how do we get there?
Monday, 4 June 2007
Friday, 1 June 2007
Is it E7 or E8? which side of the arete do you climb? Felt quite nervous just walking round it and having a feel of the holds. I remember once helping someone down who had fallen off it and bust his ankle. Me and Joe Picalli as I remember it.
Aretes are great features, think this one is the best looking of them all :
What are they? one of them is a moffatt thing?
Waddage! anyway, a beautiful evening, really nice to walk about and have the place to myself. Honestly, it was so quiet - it was gorgeous, like cleansing the soul!
This blog has lost a reader! well, a regular reader at least. Jon Fullwood finished work yesterday and in a month (or so) sets off round Europe in a van with Fi. Jealous!