Friday, 28 September 2007
As the start to the week had been so horrendous I took Thursday morning off. It was cold and I have lost weight (the W plan diet?) so had high hopes of achieving something. Warmed up and felt tired, but light on my arms. Did a bigger splash comfortably - excitement building - i usually find that quite hard, did it from the sloper and again, it all felt pretty good - awesome! drink more coffee and have a rest. The next go was good, my sequence held, I climbed positively, took the sidepull and started to press with my left hand, but as I applied presure so my hand shot from the sloper leaving a greasy paw print. Think the cold was from the wind which was north easterly - Rubicon is a south facing edge which means the wind would be blowing over the top of the edge, basically meaning that it was still beside the rocks and not actually that good nic. Had a few more goes where it looked possible, even considered changing my sequence to use something besides the sloper (which I was comfortable matching but not moving up off it) but in the end I waned and sacked it back to sheffield.
Worked from home the rest of the day, went to Thyme Cafe in the evening and that was that. Back in the thick of it today. Dont know when I will get away, but at least I have arranged to come to Caley with Ed tomorrow. Am looking forwards to being normal and climbing again.
Tuesday, 25 September 2007
Its great my job - most of the time. But when the shit hits the fan it fully hits it and stunts like this take place.
Monday, 24 September 2007
Went to the board with James on saturday morning to grind off some skin. Discovered I shouldnt put too much store in what the car thermometer reckons. It said 13.5degrees so by rights, it should have been a good session (not that temps are the only determining factor in having a good session) but it wasnt. Hands went hot and soft soon after arriving, and the energy levels were ok, but not good - deceptive I would say. Anyway, much methane production from both, discovered Cocoon - the sound of the seventh season on my iPod which sounded great and that was that. Nothing else happened of note on Saturday.
On Sunday, my efforts to involve the honey monster in climbing continued, with the poor little monster getting dragged to burbage south despite complaining of a cold and flu like symptoms. It was quite warm and a bit damp, but just nice to be out for a climb walk. Should have gone to the pub in the evening, but our 0550 start really puts me off sunday night pub. Will make the effort next week.
Friday, 21 September 2007
Kinda wierd conditions - ok to be out, and quite allright for bimbling - but not condusive to hard sendage. Have a massive hole in my tip now too. Gave up and went up the Dale to try the Hulk. Managed to dismount horizontally at high speed to my ass. This dented my confidence and further goes were thus thwarted. The Thing looks possible, but I need some foot beta. Very strange movement...
And now its raining. But, I need to let my skin recover, so its not all bad. Back to it next week. Got some new non-downturned shoes ready for the grit. Anticipation of climbing on brown rocks is growing too. Back to Brad Pitt I suppose, also WSS - on which I hope to attend a training seminar if the reclusive Adam long can be coaxed from the Plantation. Would love to do the Joker too, people keep saying that would be ok for me, which is like the kiss of death - 'Oooh, you'll piss up that youth' they say before watching me fail on the first move 1000 times. What I need is someone who I am desparate to impress (or burn off).
Wednesday, 19 September 2007
Someone has been pooing in the bushes at Rubicon. Have you no bowel control? go for a shit before you go to the crag. Its disgusting - theres bog roll barely concealed in most of the bushes along the path side, the worst bit is a big turd right underneath the sissy. If you have to go when you're out - go well away from the climbing and walking area and bury your mess. Honestly.
There was previously a dog poo under kudos wall, which prompted a discussion of if you put your pad in a poo (by accident), which is your preferred poo? dog or human? I think in my fecal league table I would sooner put a pad in a doggy do.
Tuesday, 18 September 2007
Return to Monday night heroes club at the board. Cubitt already there when we arrived - we being Lee, me and the good doctor. Zippy turned up to set some problems on the moon board which apparently Ben has been asked for by a South African banker. He's pretty strong this banker (climbs font 8a) so Zips was looking for some hard moves to test him. I got all excited and joined in with the setting for 10 minutes, and this poor banker guy has now got to deal with a Morton whirly gig leap for a crimp. I wanted to call it Blood Diamond but we figured he might seek us out and shoot us. TITS (This is the school... - tenuous reference to the film).
I'm climbing tonight (the monster is working late), and feel really that I should go out. Its a lovely day (so far) and the forecast is for rain tomorrow. Plus, this could be the last of the after work outdoor climbing nights. But, boom boom big guns is coming to sheffield and planning to be at a wall. And, I climbed last night. I shall leave work early and decide on the way back.
Monday, 17 September 2007
The reason for the deposit is to gauge interest. If noone pays, theres no point looking for a new home, as its obvious noone cares. We expect to widen membership to 40 places, and will be asking members to suggest others who would be prepared to pay to join. THis should absorb the 10 on the waiting list.
It was also obvious from the meeting the reason they only sell Leffe in halves. Seb got leathered!
The scarf belongs to the honey monster, who joined the party after the meeting. Ben moon and Andy Cave turned up at about 10pm and Seb crawled across the pub to greet them, as only Seb can. We put him in a taxi at the end of the night.
I was hung over on Saturday and spent the day being stupid and knocking into things. Saturday morning Tor club was cancelled as a result, and because we had a lunch arrangement at 1215. Went to the works in the afternoon. Didnt climb on the comp wall at all (because I didnt think I would be up to it) and had a suprising amount of fun on the other surfaces. The 'training' wall has been reset and was actually quite good too. I do still think it wants to be steeper, but it was good to hang out somewhere else for a change. Barbecued Saturday night before going out to a bar called Penelopes for a birthday party. Feeling supersonic after gin and tonics, there was reggae, dubstep, roots, house music, techno, soul, jungle - loads of stuff. However, whilst I enjoy each of these genres individually, the selection was so eclectic it changed every other record which was hard work from the dancefloor. Fair enough - play what you want and by all means mix it up, but when the style changes so dramatically every few minutes it leaves the punters lost. Anyway, I got a cab home at 0300 but didnt have any money. The people I was sharing with got out at broomhill so I got that far with no money. Started walking home - quite boring, so decided to run. Cant run in flip flops so decided to carry them, the pavement was hurting my feet, and the road was quiet and I reasoned that running down the white line would be nice and smooth. It was but this meant I had to dodge onto the pavement at high speed when cars went past (which, at 0300 in the morning, is reassuringly infrequent). Got home, had a shower, went to sleep. Honey mOnster home at 0800!
I was as fresh as a fish when I got up at noon on sunday. Amazing. Perhaps two nights on the sauce is the way forward? walked for her car, went to a farm shop and quested (unsuccessfully) for Rivelin quarry (apparently its rubbish anyway). Home to clean the car to within an inch of its life and then lord of the ringpieces. Lee, Adam and co all doing the quiz, and whilst tempted I dont need any more beer, plus, clearly I cannot be trusted to only have one.
On the way to work this morning I heard that Colin MaCrae has died. He was an amazing driver and Mike posted this clip on UKB, testament to the skill of the man :
I dont know why I cant embed this video. Here it is...
Wednesday, 12 September 2007
Sunday, 9 September 2007
Continued on to a bar in the harbour where we watched fireworks and drank more. Home about 0200. Alarms set for 8am. Drank plenty water.
All too soon it was time to get up. Felt really really bilious. Not a happy camper. Made cups of tea and headed out to get a taxi. The reason for such an unseasonally early start was the ticket requirement to be at space for 10am. Felt so dodgy all the way there. Nearly had to ask to be dropped off at the side of the road to be sick, but held it together. All the others seemed to be in a much better state. Don't know why I feel so bad, but I do (did). There's no queue and we get in the queue for security. Burly security man motions me to show hinm the contents of my bag, which contains beach essentials and evo magazine. He pulls this out and starts reading it! No further searching is conducted but we share an appreciation of the audi rs4 which in spite of the language barrier we agree is more understated and a better by than an m3. In the club its sparsely populated and there's only music indoors but its good music - deep proggy tech house played over a thrilling sound system. The timbre of the bass is stunning, deep throated and LOUD. I still feel sick. Make it to the toilets, where a power poo seems to lift my spirits. Head out and enjoy the music for another hour before getting a pass out and sacking it.
Eat a breakfast. Much better. Cully goes white at the mention of food and finds a bin to be sick in. Gaz takes a turn for the worse and makes a tactical retreat to the hotel. We push on to the beach where some intend on sleeping, but in the event - noone can. So, this is written from the beach, which is nice. The sun is out, there's a nice breeze, and I've been in the sea. Right, that's it for now. Gonna have a snooze then its disco party all night long... Ulp!
Saturday, 8 September 2007
Thursday, 6 September 2007
I'm waiting for the gnome to make the brews and I'm scanning behind the counter for stuff to squirrel away when I clap eyes on this :
Wednesday, 5 September 2007
Tuesday, 4 September 2007
Yesterdays polish dilemma was solved by him not turning up. I do still feel I am being a bit of a twat by thinking I dont want to let him in, and it is a good thing that he is trying to arrange to come with a member, but there's something about it all that irks me. I was chatting about it to a friend yesterday who likened it thus : "If you went into your local and started leaning over the bar and filling your pintglass yourself you'd expect to be not welcome again!". I think this hits the nail on the head. Its not that I have something against Dave, its that I know he has been letting himself in, and thats pissed me off. Anyway, I wonder if rman reads this and has told him? If you are reading rman - I cant believe I have been burnt off by you. When I catch you I am going to break your legs.
Anyway, I am now going to make a statement of something obvious, but that I was struck to appreciate last night. Before going to the board I made a strong coffee. I made sure I ate a couple of hours before, I didnt eat too much and I had slept ok. My session started strong but started to tail off early. I had nothing with me, so I couldnt supplement to get it back. You need to graze during training rather than load up before if you are to avoid crashing.
Monday, 3 September 2007
It was Polish Dave. He wanted to know whether he could come to the School as my guest. I said he could - but I didn't explain that there is a two guests per member rule. Climbing at the board is part training, part hanging out, the energy in the room is dependant on the people in it - overly competitive is not good, neither is too chilled. There's a mysterious mix of the right elements which can electrify a session. Part music, part banter, part collective psyche and in the right constituent parts has the effect of making you pull harder. Its not that I dont think I get negative energy off PD - I dont know him to judge what vibes he gives out, but the formula for a good session seems to have more success based on known quantities. Perhaps its that he has been sneaking in by himself thats p155ed me off and now I dont want to let him in legitimately. Gonna have to change the front door code.
It rained on Sunday so I took the monster to the Climbing works. Too hot in summer, too cold in winter - Ah well. Rounded the day off in the Rising Sun doing the quiz with a team of brainboxes. Dont know what the score was but managed to get in some more pre-Ibizarre training again - it all counts.
Britain's best bum doctor - Dr James Foley, has just been to the County with Lauren. Everyone's 'getting my GF into climbing' plans seem to be progressing apace. Paul B has been taking Natalie to the works, and she seems to be going well. Will this change the face of climbing in the future? will there be a team of girls roving about the crags competing with the boys? Will there be an all boys together backlash? On the subject of the County, there's some talk of a weekend there (presumably boys only) on the penultimate weekend in September. 22nd, 23rd? keen?
Plans for climbing this week are as follows : tonight was going to be all about the board. BUt the promise of Polish Dave and the current good conditions are making me think I want to go to the Tor. Coupled with which, Nige has just rung and suggested as much. So it might be the tor tonight. Ed says he is going to rubicon. Wednesday then might be the board night. Friday I fly to ibizarre, but not until 1500, so have chance for an early morning tor or board. depends how it goes tonight I suppose. Then I will be in ibiza until next tues. Wednesday I am off work, so I might go out then....
I am delighted to report that Ed 'The human pinching machine' / 'boom boom big guns' Robinson made the lovely Colette cry whilst on holiday somewhere spanish. No, he didnt show her his button mushroom collection - he proposed marriage. Presumably when he managed to catch her, she accepted his proposal (no doubt at gunpoint), so big props to those two.