Friday, 19 December 2008
Wednesday, 17 December 2008
Foundry comp round 2 on Monday. I was exhausted when I got there and it didnt go well. Only 2 hard problems, probably 4 droppers in total (i.e. of 20 problems, 4 were droppable/5 if you missed a trick on another, but am not including it as once you knew what to do it was very easy). Polish Dave, Stu and Roy Muesli will have been the contenders for winning this round. One hard problem on the board, I flashed to the penultimate hold, matched it and fell off - about 10 times. Feel certain Ned would have flashed this one. The hard problem on the wave was tricky up to the last two moves, then it was evil brick hard. It wasnt that I didnt do it because I didnt climb well, I didnt do it because i dont know if I would ever do it!
With such a poor performance as a backdrop, expectations for Tuesday's big day out were low. I collected Ned and Dave from their house in Crookes and set sail for Yorkshire, starting at Caley. Given that the roads into the area were wet, it seemed doubtful that Caley would be in good condition and it wasnt. Got a tour from Dave of the crag area which I have actually never been to. Understand now why people are so suprised I'd never been up there now - its really good. Banked lots of things I would like to do for when it is dry.
We'd always thought that in heading to Yorkshire we would at least be able to fail back to Almscliffe. This was our next stop and I can honestly say I have never seen the cliff in such a state of disrepair. Almost everything was wet. Went up to Demon Wall roof and that was about as good as it got, but it really wasnt good. Did a new thing (for me) called Pebble wall, then Ned did something which isnt Hot Dog Fromage, but is dolphin belly slap without the arete. Jon turned up. We tried to go to Matt's roof - soaked. Continued back to the Virgin to look at Dick Hymen. It too was wet. Had a look at Gypless - I dismissed the top at as nearly certain death and bottled it, whilst Dave, Ned and Jon all rinsed it out. They then turned their attention to something which wasnt called Magnum PI but much hilarity was had describing it as such. Some to'ing and fro'ing was required before Ned took out his balls and went for it. It looked gripping, and led to the same slimy E27 top out they had waiting for them at the top of gypless. I was glad I wasnt pretending to be brave and had my trainers on. Dave was next to succeed, seemingly scrittling his way over the top in a moment that was both inspiring and terrifying for those of us left on the ground.
Next it was my turn to shine and the four of us wedged ourselves in the cleft of Jess' roof. It was unclimbably wet. We went back to demon wall roof to finish the afternoon off, then drove home and went to the climbing works, which was almost unclimbably busy. And, I was useless. To say it didnt feel like I'd done any climbing I was knackered and left soon after starting.
Monday, 15 December 2008
Ed says the blog has gone off the boil. I feel a bit like I have gone off the boil too though, and its only reflective of mood so what can I do about it? get back on the boil! get involved in something new and exciting. I have known this for a few weeks, and I have thought its me not having something to focus on, but its also that although its looked brilliant outside its actually been quite damp. Or, perhaps with better choices of venue and project it hasn't, but I haven't made these.
Last Thursday I took her to her xmas do over in New Mills. This was at lunchtime, I had the afternoon off, so I headed to the Tor to see whether it was dry. It wasn't - very wasn't. Chatted to Zippy for a bit and high tailed it round to Rubicon, which was dry. Sticky underfoot but climbable. Warmed up and realised that without anyone to show off to I wasn't motivated to repeat problems I'd previously done and decided to go do Soft on the G at Gardoms, however, that looked wet (from the road) so I went to my next choice - Burbage South for Electric Storm. The 'hard' bit was dry, but the 'easy' top bit wasn't. Finished the day at the Foundry with Ed Robinson and a cast of strong people. Which was good.
Friday we were off work and I got to trawl around Meadowhall. Brilliant. Went to the cinema in the evening - Madagascar - escape to africa. Dont bother. It rained a lot. Given that everything would be wet I didnt even bother setting an alarm to get up early to try climbing outside, I just plumped for the climbing works - which had new comp problems to do. Met Ed again, and Dylan and Lee and loads of people. What the climbing works does really well is providing a social experience. The comp problems were good and I left tired. Saturday night was the CW birthday party. I didnt go, but did meet Dylan in the Lescar for a drink first.
Yesterday she and I walked into town and had lunch on the way back. I didn't sleep well and feel knackered today. This is a problem because tonight is the Foundry comp. Tomorrow I'm off and I'm going climbing.
Wednesday, 10 December 2008
Tuesday, 9 December 2008
Friday, 5 December 2008
Took me an hour to get to Chesterfield, but when I did there was no snow. Just heavy rain. Further hold ups due to a horse on the motorway, then a long day in Slough.
When I got home there was a CD on the door mat. On it were some nice pics from Ed Brown :
The crag of the summer :
Andy Hutch on tribes:
Me on Zeke le Freke
Dan Cheatham on the Sissy (nice light) :
Wednesday, 3 December 2008
Paul B - your new attitude is great. You are still a pessimistic chap in nature (perhaps it is the engineer in you - always seeing that which can go wrong), but no longer is the world shrouded in darkness. It is a pleasure to get burnt off by you.
Andrew Asquith - you suprised me too. I think you try to hard to be matey with people and come across as false and insincere. Relax, dont push it - let friendship come naturally. I came away from our encounter tonight thinking - oh, he's not so bad!
Andy, Shiv and Fi - all lovely to see you all.
Sports nutrition is something I would like to understand more about. Schoolboy errors were made this evening. I ate too much too soon before climbing and as a result felt bilious through the first hour. As I had climbed like a donkey due to this I did a James Foley - have a thousand bad goes on something in the hope of getting one good one. Then I managed a really big fart, the tension released and climbed well for about 30 minutes before fatigue set in. Which was quite annoying. I want always to be brilliant.
Didnt even go on the board, sticking instead to a schooling from the crabmaster on the wave. Its just brilliant that wall. The hold density, the smears - its brilliant. A joy to climb on.
So, from here - I am supposed to be going to Slough tomorrow, but its supposed to snow really heavily, so I may be about. Depending on the weather I might do something during the day. Next climbing will be Saturday morning, which is forecast to be ok, but if this motherlode of snow materialises will anything be climbable? I realise I'm not adrift without a project, just feeling the lack of opportunity to get out.