Loads less snow than previous days, far more amenable to get around. Walked to centrale (the warm up area) and did those fun slab things - brilliant. Went and did that thing on the scooped out wall with a couple of crimps in the middle. Then a cool 7a in a corridor behind the slab - hard for the grade I thought. Think it was called papa razza? I left ed with cliques a claques and went to investigate serre moi forte. Padded it out and got involved but the crimp is sharp. I was trying to start with my right foot on first and that was the problem. When I put my left on I could do the move easy. Bailed out of the jump a couple of times, but then nailed it. Topped out then went back and did it again it was so much fun. Started work on the. Sitter but struggled with a bit of foot beta in the middle, plus, could feel skin wearing, and wanted to get involved with le pilier, my supposedly in the bag problem. Ed arrives, ready for a rest from cliques. I explain my intention and we move the pads up to le pilier. There's already a couple there and I don't think they're dead pleased to be interupted. The sun is out. It doesn't look good for me and ed tries to talk me down, but I sort of know that its now or never, if I walk away I probably won't have enough skin. As I'm explaining why I want to stay the sun drops behind the mountain and the temperature drops. I put my boots on and Clean the holds. The germans step aside and I pull on. I'm all over it, climbing really positively and its all on. I get to the top but I haven't taken the top hold right, it feels greasy and I drop it - shit! The split is threatening, it really is next go or not at all. The nerves make me jittery, like caffeine overload. I try to think like freewilly and empty my mind, pull on and move to the sloping dish. Feels fine but after the rock over I feel shaky, manage to focus my thoughts and push through, take the top hold, amd although its not perfect it is enough, breathe, look back at my feet, POP! I'm well over the top and its done! Yes yes fucking yes! Some closure on this sharp skin ruiner of a shit! Fucking brilliant. Feel anti climax pulling over the top, but its just a delayed release. Collect my things and walk away. As soon as I'm out of sight of the germans, I'm grinning like a cheshire cat. Get in!
We go back to les cliques a claques and I join in on the stand. By process of elimination via millions of goes circa hillyard, we find a way and both dispatch the stand. Its a brilliant problem and I want the full tick. Work out a way on the sitter, again through process of elimination, and before too long am trying to put a into b. Ed goes and does norfolk and the other thing I was on about up above and I go to spot. The rest is all that was required, I'd decided on the sequence and was flogging myself on it thinking every go was the one. Spotting gave me enough of a break that I crushed it on the next go. Collected stuff and walked out. Delighted, a brilliant day.
Went to the pizza shop with ed's austrian friend dieter this evening. Now watching stone love and relaxing. Skin quite bad, but going to go for gold now to end of week.