Tuesday, 27 November 2007
Monday, 26 November 2007
Friday, 23 November 2007
Wednesday, 21 November 2007
I went to see James last night. He has been potted yesterday and is now sporting a natty hot pink (non weight bearing) cast on his foot. We discussed many pressing issues of the day, including the price of fish, james Pearsons flashing 8a+, what a nice chap ed robinson is and the machiavellan training he can perform during his enforced lay off. 6-8 weeks off work, the cast is on until Jan the 8th. The baron instructed me to deliver a kiss between the bum cheeks, but Lauren came back. Anyway, its just occured to me that I could take that old weight bench from the school round and we could turn him into a lou ferrino lookalike!
Tried to do all the comp problems at the works. Felt wrecked before starting, but hoped that I would loosen off. I didnt, just got pumped. Chatted to Travs who has hurt his back just before a trip away. Rubbish.
Tuesday, 20 November 2007
Amoeba assassin is well hard. There's a move in the middle that involves pinching a screw on foothold with the left hand and making a hard stab up to a reasonable DR hold. Its a 1 in 3 or 4 move (i.e. success is as frequent as once in 3 goes), so I reminded myself how to do it, then I went back to the start. Thankfully, the start is steady, but taking the pinch and moving off it is different to setting it up perfectly and then moving off it, not massively - like on some problems, but enough that it adds something. I have also learnt to hold the swing off the DR hold and again, thankfully, its mercifully easy from there to the top. It remains a project.
Started seriously looking at Stuey 5 bellies last night (a problem Jerry does on the real thing), and for the first time did it from green pinch c12 to the top (I know this isnt the crux), but more interestingly, dont think I am that far from being able to take C12. Its going to be all about the left foot paste I think. That too remains a project.
Monday, 19 November 2007
Cafe favorites tip of the week - Cafe Ceres on Sharrowvale road. Dont go if you are in a rush, as the service is leisurely, but the food is ace, and if you have time its a nice relaxed pace. Out to a lesbian dance club in town for someones birthday in the evening, back at 0330 - drunk. Sunday did bimbling jobs. Today is a board day, tomorrow possibly the works with Ned - or maybe even their board... weds dont know, thurs and fri doing something, as we have a big wedding next weekend, so I wont be out.
Saturday, 17 November 2007
Watch this space
Friday, 16 November 2007
Its the same with comps. In the foundry comp, where I dont really care, I am having fun and there is no pressure, I do well. I dont mean I would usually win in a BBC or anything, I mean that I feel I realise my potential better. When I climb in 'important' comps, I am shitting myself and I dont do well. Feel a weight was lifted when I stopped comping seriously. Will still do odd one, but not going to be as focussed as I was. My neuroses are all consuming!
So, tomorrow morning I shall drive the familiar drive to Rubicon, where I shall once again hope to end my obsession with the kudos wall. I find myself sat at the bottom of the wall looking at the holds, cleaning them (almost obsessively) and mentally thinking about what I will do when I have done it. Which is, I think, part of the problem. I dont want to do it any more, I want to have done it. Which is probably why I haven't done it. This autumn has made up for the summer in my opinion. Its been mint. I'm looking forwards to going back to the plantation, I'm psyched for west side story, brad pitt and so on, but whilst Rubicon is still climbable and I have things to do, I will feel like I have unfinished business.
So, other news from Swiss : Char has done Franks wild years. Is this 8a or 8a+now? Its a fucking good effort whatever it is. I thought it was desperate, but it was tshirt weather when James and I tried in January. The team who carried James down from Chironico included Chris Davies who had done le Prou earlier in the week. Apparently they were all heroes. Of course, had I been there I would have caught him (and then done dreamtime, kirk windtain and la boule) and none of it would have been necessary. Poor bugger estimates a lengthy recovery which is fucking shit being completely honest. James, you are a rubbish climbing partner - firstly you go and become a doctor and have mad hours, then you go and do this. Honestly, you are holding me back. Actually, thinking about it, perhaps routes is the answer for you during rehab? maybe I will get to do some routes after all!
Tonight is the works comp. I popped in to do some computer work for them and had a scout of the problems, as well as an introduction to Jacky Godoffe thanks to Perc. Seems like a lovely chap (jacky, not percy - he's a right cnut;-)) problems look good, but its saturday tomorrow, and it will be clear and cold, and I am going to get some success on the rocks. Yeah...
Thursday, 15 November 2007
an interesting development today with foley dislocating his ankle...been to hospital, all sorted now, but I think he is out for a while. Grim!
Shit! poor James. Turns out he fell off something near freak brothers. Dont know whether he will stay for duration, he seems to be in good spirits at least. He then sent through this picture...
Tuesday, 13 November 2007
"So beast. Currently weather is good. I did a 7b, 7b + and a few 7as. Ed did dr pinch and did really well on franks. Keith flashed cliques! Nearly did monolith which is mega classic, raped my skin though! Very atypical chironico, well good."
Damn it! cant remember whether Dr Pinch is 8a or 8a+. Good effort Ed 'the human pinching machine' robinson. I am so jealous. Have I said that already? Wonder what sort of temps they are getting? Oh god, I wish I was there. Never mind. Keith flashing cliques is notable too. He must be going well. Ed should be able to do Franks, as it involves pinching. Cant think why he hasnt tried it before.
Went to the board on Monday with Paul, Masonic Dave and James Pearsons. Paul did stuey, James tried it with a weight belt on and I felt like I might have moved an infinitesimal amount closer to amoeba assasin. All the hand moves are ok, theres just a hideous release to contend with. Anyway, rematch tomorrow. Damn those swiss chimps.
Monday, 12 November 2007
Thursday, 8 November 2007
Its clear overhead in Sheffield tonight, which means the suns heat has radiated back out to space and the ambient temperature is c.o.l.d. The school board was 'in nic' this evening. It was so cold in that little room that application of a coat between attempts was acceptable practice. Compadres for this evening were Mr Paul 'laps on stuey' Bennet, Natalie 'fred nicole' notbennetdontknowhersirname_sorry and Ultra G Dave Parry.
Lets talk about Pork and Beans. My good friend Mr Bradbury will no doubt assert that it is 7c+. Its in the book at 7c+/8a. I think its 8a. Its harder than the 7c+'s I have done. I repeated two fluffy after climbing Pork and Beans (for reference) and I think its easier. Perhaps I have a wack sequence, or there is a weakness there or something, but I think its hard. Had a good session tonight. Pretty 'syked' to do amoeba assasin too.
Wednesday, 7 November 2007
click on either page to make it bigger. If you read any of it, read the top tips - very funny indeed. The wrist is not mine, apparently I'm too scrawny.
Tuesday, 6 November 2007
**the above was written in the airport on the way back from Edinburger, then they did a final call and I had to run for the plane, hence its late**
I have actually got some pictures to show you, but cant upload them until lunchtime. Ah well, sure you will cope.