Rest of week looks like this :
- Weds - leeds
- Thurs - wall? foundry?
- fri - off
- sat - WALES! come rain or shine I am going to DESTROY lou ferrino!
Rest of week looks like this :
Friday night went to see The last king of scotland. Forest Whittaker is very good as despot Idi Amin - frightening. Late when we came out but glad to have seen it. Saturday we read the papers and Ed Brown and Pip (and baby) were down looking at houses. Showed them round ours whilst sending about a thousand text messages to Jon to find out if it was worth going out. He was headed for Curbar and the text I got suggested that he had walked past curbar and ended up at Froggat, where it was 50% dry. Would have loved to have gone out, but it sounded dicey, and with limited time and new problems to do at the works I figured I would head down there and get some training done. Comp problems at the works are very good. Entertaining, and technical. Two in particular worth trying are a blue thing with massive holds on the barrel that looks like it should be straightforward but is sapping, and a crimpy pink thing on the same bit of wall. Apparently the volumes only madness off to the far right had a £100 bounty on it! Dave Barrans succeeded on the night. Jumping for a small edge seems to have been whats caused right hand cod finger. Didnt go dramatically, or suddenly start feeling really bad or anything, just started being a bit stiff and hurty. Taped it and carried on and it felt ok to be honest, but its sore today.
Saturday night went to Leeds for dinner with Sister and parents. Was a lovely evening in a nice restaurant. Rubbish train home which took ages.
Sunday we went for a walk to retrieve my car (left at her gym near town), had a coffee and did the food shopping. Some house cleaning later we went for a pootle out to Rubicon to assess the state of dryness. Its miles off anything useful! Here is the path :
about three inches deep to get to the bottom of the route rubicon (which is soaked). Carried on round to Kudos wall and found this :
So thats fully useless as well. Sigh. Never mind. River is really fast flowing at the moment :
Went straight over to the Grizedale forest, but were too late to hire bikes (1400) so headed up Langdale. Parked at the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel and walked up Stickle Ghyll.
Amazing weather, beautiful sunshine and great visibility...
Got to the top in good time and considered our options. The time was knockin on (about 1600), giving us about an hour and a half of light. It didnt look to be far to whip up the top and then head down langdale pikes, but it did look steep. Everyone else was walking the other direction which didnt help our confidence. Decided to sack it down and on the way were glad we did. We had no provisions and only about a litre of water, started to run out of energy. Quickly recharged in the pub and then drove back to the hotel.
Room was fairly rubbish, but the food was nice and the service was great. Lovely meal and a bottle of wine and we retired early.
Up early on Sunday to frost, but again, totally blue sky! brilliant! Breakfasted and got to Grizedale for 0945. Hired bikes and set off on a mountain bike trail. We covered 17.5km in 2.5 hrs. Had a couple of stops, and bear in mind that one of us hadnt sat on a push bike for 10 years, let alone a mountain bike! Learning curve was steep but successful and noone came a cropper! had a lovely lovely morning, saw some great views and worked off at least half of previous nights tea!
After we returned the bikes we headed to Ambleside for a mooch around and a sandwich (in the Giggling goose). Managed to extract myself from the outdoor shops empty handed and then to Grasmere to buy Gingerbread and have a little walk. Set off home at about 1500. A lovely weekend.
Drove up to cresciano and found a parking space (only one or two cars all week, then today about 50!), left down jacket and all that in the car, it was boiling and I couldn't see myself needing it. Wish I could say I was freezing later on but I wasn't. Walked to hannibal lecter and did some warm up bimbling. Chucked the pads in to the nice cold cave and sat in there to get my body to cool down. Put the cheating hook shoes on and after a bit of reacquaintence got to the last holds... Man these are sharp! When your fingers are wet to the touch as they're weeping there really is no point trying friction problems! Neither of us could really summon up the energy to have a serious go, although I steeled myself and thought like sharma and got to the top, but felt like I was slipping on the holds all the time. When in a cave with a dodgy landing, its doesn't inspire confidence, especially with a broken body! So, sat in the sun for a bit and took james to see dreamtime. Well hot on the holds. Wandered back to stinky Pete, so scary! So high! Did some fun easy problems and a cool slab thing and then just sat in the sun until it went behind the mountains. In previous years this meant jumper, long johns and down jacket we're all deployed, only removed to attempt something. Had only t shirt on up till now and still only had to put my thermal on now. Did a bit more, until it became painful to even pull on a hold, and then walked down to the car. Tail between legs a bit, but know that if it had been cooler and I had better skin then it could all have been so different.
I've had a good trip, I have climbed ok, my body feels like its worked hard, but could give more. I feel like I have been frustrated by bad skin rather than weakness this time, and whilst frustrating, its good to know that at least the training seems to be working. It would have been really nice to come home having done something new that I was proud of, but as tc says :
"Don't get disillusioned, this is what bouldering is about - the mental and physical battle. Sounds like this problem is perfect for you as you're now getting into the realms of the mental but you're so close. That's what makes bouldering so special - the whole rollercoaster thing of one minute thinking your on, the next thinking it's not going to happen. Enjoy the process and enjoy the moment. "
(makes me think of him as John Allen at millstone in stone monkey) and I have enjoyed the process, I've certainly learnt from it and resolve to come back and get it finished.
Ok, going to sleep now. Travel home tomorrow.
Walked back to le Pilier and intended to try the top move, set up the pads and Freshly taped the bad fingers, even sank a can of red bull ready for the ascent! Had decided to do the last sequence a few times to get it wired and pulled on to do the last rock and jump but felt rubbish and like an old man! Battered and body tired. Knew it wasn't going to happen so took shoes off straight away, and announced the temporary end of my relationship with that problem (until next visit). A bit of a shit as it should have been done on day 1 but that's how it goes I suppose. If I had more time it would have happened, of that I am sure. Skant comfort.
James and I walked back out to the soucoupe roof in good spirits for him to finish vitruvian man. Decided I was going to climb it too as have nothing to hold back for now. Pulled on and climbed through to the jump, held but right hand dynamically gave way cos of the tape - really hurty! Sacked it and cleaned the holds for james. After a few abortive attempts, he went for a shit and that was the catalyst for success! Sent it on his next go. Walked back to the car in good spirits.
When we arrived back at the car it was for once, still light! Used this to our advantage to suss out a tresch brothers problem away from the main area called Freak brothers. This looks fab! Start on sloper, left hand out to ok sloping edger, right to jug undercut, build feet, left hand big span to edge and then lob for top. Looks amazing. Also found an amazing feature called tomahawk. If its hot down here tomorrow we will go back up there and try that. Now dark. Walk back to car and feel like body crashing. Drive back to biasca and attempt to buy mince. Migros is out and they don't sell beer!
Still have to tell the family we need another night (when Vik booked I told her sat to sat, its actually sat to sun. Sure this will be ok...) but was noone in when we got back. Went out for tea again.
Tomorrow, depends on weather, but maybe cresc to get hannibal lecter done, then perhaps to chironico if its warm.... Last day!