Thursday, 29 March 2007
I have gotten back from Cornwall this lunchtime and have had a lovely time. I took loads of pics and am going to write our little adventure up and post it over the weekend. So, this is just a placeholder post to say hi and that I am back!
Before I forget, the week before I climbed Tuesday at the board and was rubbish, then I climbed thursday with James at the foundry and again, was rubbish. Man, codfinger felt well sore after finishing at the foundry! James showed me a really fun wood problem on the barrel and I got all psyched and was trying to hard for someone with codfingers. Entered into discussion on campus boards and all agreed 1-4-7 at the school is the only place it counts. Managed it starting on 1-4 at the foundry. James thinks this is harder than the school - its not! Saturday I went back to the board and put on a new rung at 7.6. This means I can now train 2-5-7.6 to get so I can do 2-5-8 all the time.
Anyway, then on Sunday we went to cornwall and it was great. More on that later. I am going to the works to get rid of some of this bloat!
Monday, 19 March 2007
Wierd weekend in weather stakes! Friday stopped in as the monster was ill, then Saturday AM went and picked up the shiny new car! dead dead dead excited! absolutely love it to bits! its quiet, comfy yet fast and fun to drive - fantastic. Here it is - better pic to come...
Got clear of the garage at about 1200 and found excuses to go out in it! She was really full of cold I packed her off to bed and zipped out to Burbage. Did some warming up and legged it down to Zaff Skowclayz (!!!!sp????) which is a really nice feature just at the end of what can be called BBG north. Starting lying down with both hands in a big pocket, you lurch right wards to take this big ramp thing with your right hand. then the heel goes to the left hand and you come in to the arete with your left, I bumped my left again to a seam and shuffled the right hand up the big ramp. Now I dont really know what I was supposed to do here and kept dropping it at this point. Pulled on to this position and stuck right heel round on the bottom of the ramp and sort of rocked into it whilst pasting the left on the bottom of the arete, then I lunged up and right to a sharp and good sloper on the lip - from here its pretty steady. Did it from sitting pretty fast but didnt make the link on this visit. Headed back home and started to feel snotty myself.
Should really have been out for Aaron's birthday on the evening, but with a poorly piglet and my feeling pretty bunged I bailed out. Felt guilty but rang Aaron to tell him. Tsk. Poor show morton! Figured he didnt want a cold as a birthday pressie! Watched Nicolas Cage in Ghostrider - 5 out of 10. Probably better if you are a fan of the comic books or something, some very poor acting!
Sunday and I felt much better for having had a long sleep although still a bit headachey and wierd. Found more excuses to drive the car in circles and did some shopping. Ran into James in the evening at the petrol station - apparently Kudos is mint! he did the Press! huzzah! sendage all round (the other Sendage being Jon doing James Pearsons roof thing at eastwood)! Flurries of snow and hail persisted through the day and I cleaned the house and braised lamb shanks. Got fully drunk on red wine, have spent much of today feeling rather hazy. Am not training tonight, will be Tuesday and thursday instead. Next week, she and I going to cornwall from Sunday to Wednesday - am well psyched...
Thursday, 15 March 2007
At the weekend I may get a three or four hour window in which I get to fit my weekends climbing. This means I have a decision to make. Do I drive for 30 minutes, check out a crag and take my chances? climb for 1.5 hrs and then drive back home or do I cut my losses, drive for 15 and get a workout? I would love to commit more to climbing, but without a change in personal circumstances thats not going to happen. And do you know what? I am happy with the way things are! I have my own goals and aspirations, they may not make me world class but I dont give a shit! I dont go climbing to be world class! I go climbing for me. It makes me happy and I love the social side of it.
I am a climber not a trainer. I train out of necessity. Given the choice I would rather be out climbing and when I get the chance and it wont eat into the time I have with my girlfriend, thats what I will do.
Tuesday, 13 March 2007
Went back on it to film an ascent but foot popped off on the last jump to c45... Here is what I have : http://www.youtube.com/v/52R2UwZ9VJc
Saturday, 10 March 2007
Jon is a Peak hero remember, and for me a very inspiring climber. When I am sat beneath something wondering what more I can give I think of the jonboy patent pending yelp and extra effort. I have got to harness this and use it to my advantage.
Sometimes you dont feel great and you dont climb as well as you know you could - going back to the 9-5'vers lot discussion of a couple of weeks ago (and more or less Jon's last post - keep up boy!) so many things come into the equation - tiredness, diet, stress, sleep patterns - sometimes it might be that you are just under the weather. Theres no point stressing about it, you just have to accept that you arent always going to be at your best and drop your grade and remember why we go climbing.
Anyway, been a few days since I have been on here whining about how rubbish I am. Wednesday - went to the Leeds wall. Met Ed Brown and Pip. Helen Davies from work wanted to come down to the wall but I think was disappointed that she was left to her own devices. Sorry love, but I have only a 2hr session and I am going climbing. You are welcome to come for a lift but you can chuffing well pay if you want instruction! Lovely to see Ed Brown and Pip - such a nice couple. Ben Meeks tells me I am in a climbing magazine. God knows which one - its not gravity, Climb or Friction. Rather characteristically I am not climbing but stood gormlessly looking at a wall - can only imagine I must be in background.
Thursday - the board wrecking session. Ed Robinson feeling rubbish too so no human pinching machine to contend with. Arrange with Dr F to meet at normal time at the board. James - I want to go to the foundry. You will be putting a harness on. Back to the board, Keith and JLS are there and JLS is actually climbing for a change! keith looks fiercely strong and is bearing down. Tom Briggs and Rachel turn up - the key is in the box you lazy twat! Sure there is something going on there. Anyway, I dont do anything hard but have a pretty good session, feel that I climb well and manage basic Ben (2nd go), pego goes to albuquerque, schoolboy (2nd go), woodlogy elim and nearly that thing of jons that jumps for the resin rail. On finishing, nearly do 1-5-8 on big rungs, very pleased. James and I spend much of evening giggling - what better way is there to spend a night?
Friday - work like a dog, run 8.5km - slowly. To rubbish pub (porter brook) where Si and Diane announce they are pregnant! delighted for them.
Saturday - at work from 0730 - 1800. Ring Sam to ask if ok to go to works (its been shut for student comp) and head down there for an hour. Problems on comp wall v.tricky! drop them left right and centre - never mind. Now watching 24 and drinking beer (which may be obvious).
Tuesday, 6 March 2007
Saturday, 3 March 2007
Up early for assault on Wales. Weather filthy. Cane it across the snake - 19 mins from pub in sheff to first buildings in Glossop (no, not the house on the corner). Pick Ed up and by Chester its sunny - hooray! text Doyle and weather reports sound good. Make it to the cave for about 1040 - fully wet. The rail on Lou Ferrino is pooling and there's no hope of getting it done. Last hold on Rock Attrocity is fully soaked, even Left Wall Trav has streaks of wetness. Text Doyle and announce we are going to go to the Pass. Arrive and warm up on Roadside, marvel at the boulder the rescue dudes had to prise apart to rescue a fat student. Codfinger feels ok. Both not feeling amazing but press on to Jerrys Roof. Ed puts in a good link from the pinchy jump thing and a couple of goes later so do I. We brush the holds and wait. Ed decides to work out the start. Pulls on, moves into the match, up through the crimps, to the pinch, he's held the swing! feet swing in and he takes the lip, I'm shouting instructions and he's pulling round - its in the bag!