Sunday, 30 December 2007
Drive home through a soaked peak district on the 27th. Drop off the pressies and head up to the board. Definately no way I could be outside today! Vicky fringe is trying Helen Kean problems. They look fun. I have no will power and find myself having a go. Actually don't feel too shabby - lack a bit of pzzazz on the 50, but thats always the first thing to go when you put on weight or have some time off. Fingers feel ok though and I climb well on the 30 and the moon board. Hopefully the next session will improve again. More beer is consumed this evening - although in smaller measure.
Friday the 28th looks a lovely morning! send out an exploratory text message and snag cheekbones mason. Meet at Burbage west where he wants to try westworld. I think I tried this once about 5 years ago, and I thought I was going to have a hernia. I haven't been back on it. Repeated my Nose experience - for those who have not had the pleasure, this means trying it a really stupid way - fail, watch someone else and then do it really easily. Sigh loudly and exclaim that I am a punter. Remember how lovely climbing on the gritstone is. The moves and the holds are a joy to do/use. Head on round to WSS - say hello to Boggo, Simon Holmes and Sarah. Cannot do WSS at all. Cannot hardly pull on. Phone Adam (laid up on sofa with bad back after an onsight attempt on Parthian Shot). Sequence improves markedly and I finish the day repeatedly getting into the top hand holds, but failing to rearrange the feet to make the last move. Stu Little turns up. Dave and Ben (not me clearly) go to look at Famous Grouse. I tell Stu about Adam's bad back and we coerce to spread rumour that he has been attempting to onsight parthian. Its all lies. I explain the nose experience and Stu allows me the benefit of his insight and points out that I am not a rubbish technical climber, but I am a sequence idiot. I agree.
Am starting to get all excited about Swizzy. There are a lot of things I want to do at Chironico. Theres something called Schule des Lebens that has another 8a to the left of it that sounds up my street, and talking to James Foley I hear that Liam Desroy has done Great Shark hunt and has claimed it at 8a+. OOOOOOh! I am going to keep a training diary this year. I have said it before, but I am and Its gonna be great!
Tuesday, 25 December 2007
Pre Xmas, tried to go out on er, Sunday, and I lined up stanage's chief beta monkey to facilitate pre Xmas gritstone glory, but on heading out of ringinglow I could see a bank of fog at the top of the hill which looked ominous. Burbage was shrouded in fog, the high bit between bbg and stanage was just about poking out, but still very hazy, and down to stanage was like descending into a dickensian pea souper, quite atmospheric but not great for climbing. Parked up at the plantation car park planning to walk up anyway as there might be something dry. Pure people walking back down to the car park with pads. They reckoned it was wet. Called adam - planning to head further south. Headed to the works. Bumped into dribble. He reported Andi Turner sitting under the pebble and that it was wet. As Andi Turner is one of the staffs lads and thats were adam was on about, I felt vindicated going to a climbing wall when the sun was out in sheffield. Couldnt have gone to the board, I could feel this lurgy starting. Climbed like a sac of spuds. Felt rubbish, but still in denial.
Monday I felt worse, Tuesday I have felt better, but feel over worst of it. Planning to pop to the board for an hour on way to monsters on boxing day. Wonder if rubicon is dry. Suspect I will be heavy and weak. At least the chances of anyone being there are slim.
Saturday, 22 December 2007
Felt rubbish all day on thursday, ate at Catch in the evening with the monster - only a glass of wine that night, so relatively tame. Friday - last day of work, didn't have to go in to office, just a morning at home. Guests arrived in the afternoon, all out in the Ball in evening, but, already buoyed by mulled wine I was soon drunk and ready to go home (it was closing time too), got bought another drink, and should have left it, but didn't. That was the straw that broke the camels back. Woke up today feeling like death. Felt like death until managing to eat at 1130. Went for a walk in the icy rain with the monster. Was quite invigorating. Now watching rubbish christmas telly and eating.
Bleugh. Back on it tomorrow (I hope).
Tuesday, 18 December 2007
Monday, 17 December 2007
Saturday, 15 December 2007
So, last night I hear from Foley that Ned has done full power! fantastic effort. This guy is going so well and has a very positive energy. I fully expect him to go on to greater things. He is super keen, 15 years old, strong as an ox, but sadly a ginger. I wonder if there is an offset grading scale for giners?
As if that wasn't enough, I missed a call this afternoon from Dr Pinch himself. A very breathless but excited Ed Robinson babbled that he has finally closed his Zoo York account! superb effort from another underachieving super power. In many ways I think it means more to have put in a lot of time and effort when you do something, as all that investment has paid out - and its a great feeling. I would love to be in his shoes tonight!
On the other end of the scale, one cripple and one punter went to the board today. The cripple attempted to see how much weight the ricketty weights bench could support in his campaign to bench a mini metro, and the punter failed on everything, gave up climbing (couldn't feel my feet) and did some hanging, using the new greatest contraption ever - the gymboss. Waddage to Dylan for this hot tip, its a split interval timer which allows you to set a work and rest period. For example, if you wanted to do 10 second hangs with a 30 second rest, it beeps when you should change state - and, increments a rep counter, so you always know where you are. Awesome knowledge - get them off ebay. Mine was £17.99 inc postage.
Anyway, well done to those who did, and must try harder to those who didn't.
Back to the fingerboard for me!
Friday, 14 December 2007
Very cold. Try to warm up, but there's verglass on all the tops so no actual topping out. Pretty much sack warming up, figuring that T Crack isnt that physical - I'll go and get stuck in. Fall off slapping for top pocket. Go and look at where it actually is rather than where it looks to be and hold it, it feels scrittly - like the grit has been wet. Risk life and limb teetering round the top to give it a brush. Next couple of goes I am there but am a bit scared. Back off. Decide to stop fannying around and suprisingly its execution is pleasantly easy. I dont know why I have had such a whitey on it. I think i have been physically capable for some time, but just havent done it. Ah well. Its done. The moves are entertaining, and it climbs well, but I dont think it will become a new favorite or anything.
Early in the day I was thinking about going to look at brutal arete at Stanton moor, but I had heard it was high and then I remembered walk on by at Curbar, which is a problem I would super like to do. However, I left it too late in the day and just did strawberries and trackside, then gorilla warfare and early doors. Had a lovely day out. Bit frustrated at Tsunami, but I think the water level might recede and it might not be over yet... Am even considering investing in wellies and a tarp, and doing it with some kind of floating start...
Wednesday, 12 December 2007
Tuesday, 11 December 2007
This time I am going to be focussed. I am going to have clear goals (didnt I last time?) and I am going to get them done. Hopefully I can go this year with hard skin. That was what was wrong last time.
Anyway, Joe and Vik were back. Lovely to see them both. They have the holiday blues. I get this after a chuffing bank holiday, so I cannot begin to imagine how this feels after 3 months off. Rubbish. Joe hasnt lost any of his school psyche but sadly I didnt notice vik go for a single wee during the time they were there. A sorry state of affairs.
Right. Got to go. Me and the monster are going out for a walk. Its minus 25 so I need to get my long johns on. Oh, and I have booked flights to canada to continue my role as the founding member of the Tim Clifford fan club.
Monday, 10 December 2007
Thursday, 6 December 2007
I had my first solid poo for days yesterday, so I rewarded myself by arranging a trip to the Works to meet friends. There's a new blue circuit which I delighted in doing all of. Didn't fall off once, which is a good thing, because I think they were supposed to be max font 5. I have never completed a full circuit of problems at that wall before, and it was fun. I enjoyed the climbing and it was probably all that I could have managed to be honest. I had to rein in my enthusiasm towards the end as the harder problems looked more inviting, and I wanted to rush off and get stuck in. I don't think it will replace trying as a training strategy, but under the circumstances it was just the ticket.
Pretty much back to normal this morning. Bit more gaseous than usual, so be thankful you are not confined in the school with me. Planning to avoid the works comp. Don't know about the evening do - depends how I feel. The monster says Club Sssh is a full dive. I am keen to climb on saturday, but I don't know whether this will be allowed. Doyle has been on and might be about.
Wonder if kudos is dry...
Tuesday, 4 December 2007
Anyway, I was all excited on Wednesday as it was the start of a mini break to Edinburgh with the monster. We had taken Thursday and Friday off work, booked a flash hotel and organised train tickets. It had been a particularly unpleasant busy week at work last week too, so the prospect of doing anything else was welcome. The train was busy, and our booked seats were together, but across an aisle. She was next to a very talkative man who clearly thought of himself as a genius. Thankfully, he was only on until Leeds. It takes just shy of 4hrs to get to Edin, but there are nice views out when you get to the county.
Arrived at about 1400, shouldered our bags and tromped off to the hotel. It was a great day to be in Edin – really crisp, clear and cold. Hotel was lovely, checked in and dumped the bags and pretty much went straight back out, first stop – the castle. Its £11 to get in, but is pretty cool. Meandered around there as the sun was setting – and the temperature droppingthen wandered back down the royal mile to town, to buy hats from the xmas market and drink mulled wine. Walked to the Mussel inn on rose street for tea, then a bit more moseying, final wine bar stop and home to bed – v.tired. Time about 2000.
It rained on friday. Enjoyed full scottish breakfast and hit the shops. Bought loads of xmas stuff and walked down to about half way down leith walk. Got the bus the rest of the way to the foot of the walk, where we found the flash restaurants the guide recommended – Martin Wishart ('Edin's #1 foody experience', v.exp), the Shore (gastropub, exp) and Fishers (fish, exp). We werent very hungry so we went to a cheap pub between, which was nice anyway. Leith a bit grim in the rain. Bus back to town, bit more noseying around and then home to hotel for a rest and shower. 30th November is St.Andrews day so there was loads of stuff happening in Princes st gardens, which we missed due to being in bed. Headed back out at 2030 for tea. Intention was to go to the living room, george st, but when we got there it looked a bit like a posh yates. The woman in Space.NK had recommended the italian next door, so we tried there but they had an hour wait for food. Just as we were getting despondent we noticed a thai rest. called Time 4 Thai, which was recommended in the book – and was lovely. Big feed. Very nice. We always share what we get and half way through we swapped plates. She enjoyed two thirds of mine and then chomped into a chilli. A really hot chilli! que lots of water drinking and fanning face. Bless. Only by the time we left could we laugh about it!
Saturday was a better day in weather terms, and our last day in Edin. Still felt full, but pushed on and had the full breakfast in the hotel (well, you have paid for it!) then out into town to drop the bags in left luggage at the station. Continued to the royal mile where instead of going up to the castle we walked down to holyrood park – the home of arthurs seat, which is best described as an urban hill walking experience – v.bizarre. Climbed Arthurs seat – her in heeled town shoes! and returned via salisbury crags. Took about an hour and a half. Very pleasant. Shops and town horrendous on a Saturday, so glad to be out of the mix. Spot of lunch and a bit more noseying around then to the station to get the train home.
Sunday was a catching up day. Went to the works for a couple of hours, and got involved with a pink harder circuit. Surprised myself by finding it quite easy, but a link problem. Sometimes I assess things as being too hard for me without actually trying them. I think in my head I think I wont be able to do it, then when I get through the bit I thought I wouldn't do I am left flummoxed. What I am capable of and what I think I am capable of are two quite different things. Perhaps it all relates to this idea of not thinking about things as you climb – empty your mind and focus on the moves (man). Popped to Waitrose on the way to pick up the monster (yet more xmas shopping!) and bumped into first Adam, who was buying assorted bread rolls, and then Char whose deer stalker jacket so stunned me I forgot to look at his shopping. Made tea, everything fine, and then the world ended.
Well, not quite. But I woke on Monday feeling fucked. Dizzy, sick and generally horrible. Phoned in to work. The Monster was fine, so I dont know where it came from to get me, but it did. Basically couldnt do anything all day yesterday. Horrible. Still feel shaky today, but am delighted to report have had a solid poo at last.