Thursday, 29 January 2009
Tuesday, 27 January 2009
I am slightly desperate to get it done, so I'm grasping at chances to get back on it. On one hand, this approach could yield dividends as I could get it done quickly, but it does mean that I have been prepared to try in inideal conditions. Like last night. Dank accurately describes conditions at the boulders. Although apparently dry to the touch, the holds didnt feel good and would go black after a minimum of fettling. Plus, I mutilated my tips on Saturday and they've not yet recovered, so had tape on one finger and the rest were/are weeping.
Not the Joker from dobbin on Vimeo.
The desperation comes from knowing I can do it, and wanting to do so soon. And, strangely, that I'm away this weekend and its as if it wont be there when I get back. Possibly on Wednesday then...
When it went dark I drove to the Foundry for the final round of their comp. Going out first meant I was already warm when I arrived, but that I waned fast. Really good problems in this round - the best of the series? reckon. I climbed like a right donkey, but had fun.
The man Moffat was in signing copies of his book which I have on order, so hopefully it will arrive soon... .
Monday, 26 January 2009
Thursday, 22 January 2009
Its a lovely feeling having some time to yourself and being able to think "hmm, where shall I go?". Knew Dylan would want to go back on Western Eyes (I'm just not that bothered I dont think), keep wondering about west side story, Ed Brown was doing back to do Black Car Burning (he did it!) and Pritch has been on the Joker. And in spite of all of that Rae saying that Rubicon was in condition kept popping back to the front. Spoke to Ed in the morning and he made an important point - dont go back somewhere you have done everything with the sole intention of showing off at the cost of not doing something new. Success breeds success said I, but I knew that if I went to Rubbercon and crushed everything I wouldnt have the beans to do Mossatrocity. Had I learnt nothing from Sensei Mosely?
And so I set the channel on Grindleford, took the batteries out of the remote control and got involved. First go, felt all over it - strong, in control, beans to spare for the end, and yet plop! I'm back on the ground having slipped off the top. 4 minutes later and I've changed the camera angle and set off again. I dont feel as composed, in the back of my mind I wonder if this is going to become another siege nemesis, but its a fleeting thought and I'm humping my way to within striking distance of glory. Current wisdom on the top is to take the left heel off and paste the toe on the front of the roof before windmill slapping the top with the right. Its a real sapper as you must be taking a lot of weight with that heel, and you're so tantalisingly close when you have to do it - I wonder if you can go with the left? In order to do so, the right hand has to be a bit further back, and on a seam which allows just a bit more udge to get even closer, and bam I slap the top with my left - oh shit! its not properly on! I have to lay one on with my other hand and even then I think I'm off, but with both hands I can shuffle a bit of the surface of my palm onto the hold and mantle (sans style) to glory. What an epic. If you watch the video, marvel at the total lack of grace with which I top out.
Mossatrocity from dobbin on Vimeo.
I reward myself with a cup of tea and a flapjack from the station cafe (which tastes lovely) whilst pondering what to do next. On one hand, I could go to Rubicon, however, the remote control has no batteries and I am dialled into the project channel. The Joker it is. On arrival my focus is unwavering. There are teams beneath the breadline and somewhere else, but its straight to the joker for me. Delightfully this looks like it could be on. I started off being three inches short of the top, and finished up an inch or so over. But where is the good bit of the damn hold? Anyway, I'm psyched, but its raining so I shall have to wait.
Thursday, 15 January 2009
Monday, 12 January 2009
It felt every bit of the reported -4 as I shoved my bag down inside my pad. There was plenty of freezing fog about, but I had a good feeling about Saturday, although my worn tips didnt look like I would get too many chances. It was early - about 945 and there were no other teams out climbing, and no cars in the car park. I set off, marvelling at impressive haw frost on the boulders :
Thankfully the holds on the fig were unaffected and although difficult to warm up I managed it eventually. The amazing heat watch reported -2 and 70% humidity, which would explain it feeling pretty good, but not incredible. Dylan arrived, I set about the Fig. The first time I put my left hand on the sloper I can feel a crystal push through the dreadfully thin pad on my index, the shock of which refocusses my mind on whether what I thought would be a dead cert will be at all.
Dan turns up. He and Dylan start working out Submergence. I have always fancied a do on this, and they get pretty close to doing the crux move. I want to get involved, but maintain my single minded dedication to the fig. On several goes I get out to the lip but am sliding around on the holds and drop off. Theres at least a couple where I get there and am eyeballing the crimps but dont do the move. Then Ed and Pip turn up. We have a chat and I step up. The showing off effect is enough and I know pulling on I'm going to do it. I take the sloper perfectly, my right matches on and I have all the subtleties down, I rock over and have the time to settle my left on the pinch and move my feet, which happens without incident, again, my hand movements are unusually precise, I'm locked on and know its going down! I match the lip and have a bit of a moment getting my right foot on, but bam! I'm there! the move to the crimp is complete and I'm rocking over to glory. YYFY!
Dan video'd a previous go where I get to the lip and fall matching, and when I'd finished I filmed Dylan do the top. I'd have done it again for the camera but had a big hole in my left index so didnt. Here is the vid :
I thought it would be funny to stick it together badly so that the climber changes half way through.
Ed and Pip walk on taking pics, some southerners turn up and Dan, Dylan and I set off somewhere else. Dan and I want to go and do the Sphinx. We bump into JLS and Vic and they reckon it will be covered in ice at the top, and I cant feel my right foot, so we decide to go down to Grindleford to have a look at Mossatrocity. JLS and Vic are terrace bound. Its much warmer down there and totally ice free. Mossatrocity looks amazing. I get out to the lip on the flash and totally wilt. Everything everyone has told me about it is true - you want to do this quickly! its a complete body mangler, and I think I have mild bicep strain as a result.
Thursday, 8 January 2009
Bimbled about a bit remembering I'd also thought to warm up at home first (like Keith) but hadn't actually done anything. Managed to find some other dry holds to take the edge off, and then it was time to set about the Fig. Some ranging goes were required to remember how to use the sloper, then I moved my attention to the top bit (from sloper on) only the lip holds must have been a bit damp because I was slithering about where on Saturday I was glued in place. Anyway, made it to the two lip holds and slapped poorly back to the good holds. Didnt do it, but wasnt worried because this bit is ok and if I got there psyche would carry me through.
It didnt. I got from the start to the two lip pinches and fell off there. This led to another 10 goes with diminishing returns from each. Sigh. I should also like to mention that when I arrived it was 43% humidity, but there was a big bank of fog over Higgar. When that reached us at Bbg north temperature did drop, but humidity went up - 80% it said at 1630 when i finally admitted defeat. I think I can take 8b for getting to the lip in adverse conditions.
Wednesday, 7 January 2009
and the pinch and holds above the lip on the Fig are soaked (click to make bigger) :
Trying to be a wise man and not a fool, I didnt put my boots on - save my skin for another day when it could be climbed. I have nothing to gain working the moves - as I have done them all.
0.5 degrees above freezing and 70% humidity!
Tuesday, 6 January 2009
Monday, 5 January 2009
Thursday, 1 January 2009
From me I've climbed nothing amazing, in these two weeks of pretty consistently good conditions but I did get out a few times. Once to realise its only worth trying blind fig when its overcast, once to succeed on zaff SCwochlass (sorry Dave, I know that's wrong!) and once with the Foley to go and do flatworld.
I got a little point and shoot digital camera for xmas. It films hd. I can't actually edit it though - lack of processing hardware. Until I sort this out I'll fail back to vga, besides, its only for the web anyway, so it doesn't matter. I filmed both problems using said camera and will upload the clips when back home. They're not very exciting and I have much to learn from the likes of Keith. On the subject of which, he is on it at the moment. He crushed an 8b called amber in Swiss, then did gecko in font just after xmas. Waddage!
Chris Doyle has done alphane moon at chironico (don't know where this is actually, have guide, will look.) just before xmas, which all these heroes who presumably know a thing or two about good problems say is brilliant. The pictures look ok, but you can't tell properly from them so I shall have to seek it out, but that's not going to be until 2010 I think. I suppose its possible after the wedding...
Climbed with nEd and Dave just before xmas which was nice, especially as I was both having a good session and on home turf at the foundry. Which leads me on to variable. The sorcerer of sending has added little women to his ticklist which is 8b I think. What's more waddage is that he did zerberus in the Jura and didn't tell anyone. Gold plated waddage. Which reminds me - Dave mason did something called river dance or play or something which he speaks very highly of. I can say no more.
There will be no beastmakers for now as the machine is broken again apparently, although there is something on their Blog from after I heard that which suggests that production may restart soon.
Well done all you beasts. I'm inspired.