Zoo Log

Doing well in competitions isnt about being able to climb 8b (or even 8a for that matter), its about being able to flash 7c all day. Sadly, I'm really bad at flashing problems, hence I got to the top of a lot of things on Saturday (CWIF) but not in as few goes as were possible. The problems werent actually that hard, they were just easy to fall off. This was a comp which rewarded climbing ability over strength and training. Splitting the qualifiers was a great move and it made it much more palatable going round as a competitor. However, the new holds soon took their toll and many people were wincing as they reached the latter stages of the morning. If I climb well then I love comps. If I make silly mistakes then I spend ages kicking myself and remember why I dont do them any more.

So, after what was ultimately quite a disappointing performance at the CWIF I didnt think I was climbing very well, had lost sheets of skin and was a bit down in the dumps. Watched the finals on Sunday and wished I was there, cos its always a great atmosphere, but Sunday night is about drinking wine and winding down, not getting hyped up, so I watched on the internet. Monday was the first chance to get back in my corner, and who should I find there, looking on misty eyed, but the godfather of 7b+ himself - John Welford. He's torn a bicep tendon and is rehabilitating, so isnt actually on the board, but has naturally gravitated in that direction. The final problems are still on the wall, and I am excited to explore the new surface - which, I have to say, is brilliant. Gone is the impressive but too steep bennett corner, gone as well the barrel, the corners of which saw many a knee wedged against them. In is the multi-faceted more reasonable angle and with it a totally new experience. I think its a big improvement. Considering it wasnt planned and Andy Long and Pickles wouldnt tell them what they were getting, what they came up with is great. Quite competent that team.

Busted out the womens final problems. Including the one none of them did. Felt dead tough, until it was pointed out that A) I had seen 3 of 4 done, and B) I only flashed one (thanks Graeme). Did no mens! The far right one which the slovenian man flashed - so impressive - this is about 8b! Nearly did the next one in (the one they all did), and nearly did the mantle the box on the slab on the far left, but got the fear and bottled it. Used more than my share of beans and didnt really go on the board.

Which meant that Tuesday was actually the second day on. Another corker of a day, but I hadnt wanted to climb outside on Monday as i was trying save skin. Finished work and drove to Caley. I think the problem with me and Zoo York has been that I have been quite close for some time, so I have had the attitude that I 'will just get it done' and then do something else. When actually problems dont reward presumptuousness, and I kept getting things wrong and getting shut down. This time I warmed up properly, took my time and only headed up there when the idea of swinging around on that tape box edge didnt sound horrific. I also prepared properly when I got there. I marked the holds in the right places, cleaned everything and took the time to set the pads right - giving me confidence that all was in order before starting. Finally, rather than just starting it, I did it from standing first. To reinforce the top. Then I did it from the undercut, to further reinforce and to get the idea of doing it in my head. It felt good, I felt good, but the edges of tiredness were present. Doing all i could to ignore the signs and empty my head of everything I set off from the start, and didnt take the edge right although tried to continue, nearly made it as well, but it wasnt to be. On the next go I didnt get one of the toe hooks right first time, and had to weedle it in, which took the edge off and I failed again.

Perhaps the biggest challenge for me with this problem was in my head. I had to work hard to totally empty my head of everything before setting off. I had to get myself to stop thinking about what I would do when I had done it, stop thinking and wondering whether i could do it, and believe! Emptying ones head is actually harder than it sounds. I actually didnt feel as good as I started as I had on the go before. Before, when I got to the undercut, I felt strong! I thought I was going to do it then, but this time was more ragged, I felt a bit wild as I took the undercut, but managed not to think about the consequences and carry on. Boom, hit the edge, not got it right, managed to adjust it - which is incredible! ,kick the toe up into the toe hook, spend a bit of time weedling it into position and take the hand off - it holds, I get to the sideways nubbin in good control and start to take the swing, working hard to scum my right foot against the wall as I go. It feels wild still, but I kill the swing and slap my heel on, before I have time to think, to wonder if I have the holds right, I slap my right up to the ear and again, get it boned. I dont stop, try not to take stock and lurch rightwards for the sidepull, the problem here has been that this is a bit of a non hold. Its not very helpful and it points the wrong way. I dont actually really stop on it, just tag it and bounce on to the jug - cos I know I'm coming off I think.

As the fingers of my right hand close around the jug, the thought that I dont have it properly and I feel a bit pumped flash through my head, these get brushed aside as psyche takes over and I kick my foot up to the tape box edge. For a moment I think I'm boxed and wont be able to get to the top! This fleeting thought goes the way of the other fleeters as my palm sinks over the top sloper - thank god I marked them! I match up and mantle to glory. As I do so, all I can think of is Martin Smith who fell from here before he did it. Thankfully this doesnt happen and I scamper over the top delighted to have ended this siege. I slump back onto my pad and compose a text message. Its 4pm and I have an hour to go, but I almost want to stop now and go home.

She and I go out for dinner tonight, and have a lovely evening, but I wake up the next day with a cold! must have been trying hard!