Wednesday 11 May 2011

Badger bait

Several people had mentioned the amount of shit I was getting on the internet. I hadn't seen any of it, and wondered where it was. I thought of all the possible vectors and finally thought to check UKB. And there it was, the motherlode. A steaming pile of Morton Muck. Although most of it is reasonable and makes sense, the blog is not to be taken as literally as it seems it is read (paradoxical statement perhaps). I write what my inner dialog was when I did or tried something, and perhaps lack the external filter that some people apply before putting pen to paper. I'm not going to apply one now, I dont mind the shit - its not proper shit after all, and largely deserved! However, one small point - Paul B's aversion therapy - i dont believe thats the way. The way is small incremental steps.

I should have been to the county this weekend, but the forecast was so bad we pulled the plug. It seems like every weekend when i have a full weekend ticket, the weather craps out. Contemplated all sorts of options, none of them looked very hopeful, and so I ended up at the tor. At 0830, but it was already 14degrees and totally still. The groove was smee. Made it into the base three or four times, but never to clip. Had one go where got the horn, then managed to sort it out, but felt in bulk.

I think all week the weather predictions had been for saturday to be showers in the day and then for sunday to be mega rain, and saturday was true, but the mega rain arrived on the evening, and sunday was mint. Went with Ned and Jon to check out Badger rock, which was good. Nice little spot in a nice location, with some pretty good problems to go at. Badger Badger Badger does look really good. Adam turns up and adds deathy finishes to the easy stuff and thats that.

Yesterday was supposed to be back on Culloden, but we got sidetracked at the tor. Had a quick burn on Mecca, but the previous days 'easy session' on the board slowed me down and it didnt go great. Good tor scene, and loads better conditions than saturday. Overcast with a fresh breeze. Did Powerband again, which makes two ascents in about 20 years. Tried to do it a third time with a view to getting it wired and nearly managed it (falling stepping foot out of egyptian, but with hand on the undercut). This is good, and I am now psyched for stamina band as a training project for Mecca. Its going to teach me to recover. And, you see, the reason I have never given much energy to it because of my inability to do the last move on PB. Now I can do it I am going to do Staminaband.

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