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I am under pressure to use up my accrued flexi hours, so a week ago I booked a flexi day off. Only I didnt end up taking it because the weather was so bad there was no point. I split it into two half days and had one last wednesday and the next one this wednesday. However, its likely to be raining again, so I will be at the climbing works most likely. Which is also where I was yesterday. From 2pm. Sounds early? I started work at 0600. My hours were done and I was off at 12. In spite of the rain all reports suggest best ever conditions at the Tor on Sunday, and so I started driving out, reaching Ringinglow road before reasoning that an actual river running down the road wasnt the best indicator of great conditions. I headed home and did some housework before going to the wall. Dull, but necessary.

Dont worry, this isnt going to be a blow by blow account of a circuit at the climbing wall, just a generalised statement in which I will tell you that Dylog, Percy and I had a good time flailing on some of the new yellows. Its interesting climbing on things other than the board, as it highlights the value in so doing. Stubbs and I were talking about this last night on the Twatter. If you over do any one board or crag you become a specialist, and too much specialism gets you up only things at that specific venue. This was particularly evident at the Mill where the rule is that its hands for feet except where the hands are wood, and you dont stand on wood. This is a good rule and allows both rules to exist side by side. Stubbs argument is that because its harder on small foot jibs, so it makes you stronger for when you have bigger feet - and I sort of agree, but I also think theres a stylistic difference in how you climb with hands for feet. Perhaps its something about the way in which you move?

So, it is with this in mind I propose a new ideal board configuration. Maintain the same density of bad wooden footholds, but also allow feet on resins (and perhaps a few more resins to make this possible)?

Dylog left and was replaced by Keith. Been far too long and it was nice to see him. He claims to be weak, but is strong. Climbed some good problems on the board, and invented/got shown a few other new ones. For those who might go and try, write these down :

This first one is one I set myself last night, although is so obvious I would be suprised if it hasnt been done already. Essentially climbing the original easy problem :

Start matched on undercut bar
Right to good square pinch (using the top of it)
Left into good undercut above Monkey shot
Right all way to good Beastmaker pinch
Ninja stab to Beastmaker crimp
Top.

This one from Ned, dunbar pinching (pinky and thumb around either side) allowed :

Fat legs ucut pinches
Big dowel
13f
14k
17h
Top.

Which reminds me - i need to investigate wiki pages.