Free Monster

Years ago I went on the Free Monster at WCJ Cornice. Its a brilliant
route for me to go on because its everything I'm not good at. There
are no hard moves, no small holds, just lots of good ones and no
respite between them. With it being so warm, both the route and the
Cornice seemed like a great choice of venue, and I wondered how many
others would have come to the same conclusion, but the answer it
seemed, was none.

Dylog and I met at the Norfolk Arms, and I transferred to the newly
Saab seated van. Unlike the gaudy uncomfortable faux racing chair that
was there before, there's now a soft and comfortable leather car seat
out of a Saab. This is a big improvement. We swooped down to Rubicon
and were suprised to see a team on Caviar, which although in the shade
(just), must have felt horrendous in those temps.

The walk to the Cornice is lovely. Perched atop the hill on the
opposite bank to the 'con, a lovely view of the dale coaxes you deeper
into its folds until finally you weave down into the undergrowth to
get to the 'last grand daddy wave of them all, frozen on the point of
collapse' (zippy, in a guidebook somewhere). The mighty Cornice.

The crag is largely dry, with patches of wetness in the middle of BD
but certainly climbable. I set off up Brachiation dance, and whilst I
am teetering on the slab trying to remember what to do I pull a hold
off and get a rope burn into the bargain. In many ways, this is a good
thing, as I have now actually had a proper fall, and of the worst,
most feared type - a slipping off fall on vertical territory - but,
now I know I am not going to die and can climb till I'm off rather
than wimp out. I start again, and negotiate my way through the
dampness to the final break. As I shake out I think to myself whoa!
this is scary, then I think - no it isnt, and I rationalise. I go for
it. Its all fine and my nerves subside. Dylog climbs, slips off the
wetness, but we are only warming up. He strips the route and we move
right.

The routes at the Cornice share some common factors. Usually there is
a tenuous wobbly bit on the slab at the start, then some heel in break
undercutting gubbins at the top. Free Monster (which is right next to
BD) feels very similar, just much harder. I bolt to bolt it putting
the clips in and remember the way. It feels like it will require more
fitness than perhaps I have. But I banish those feelings and try to
think like I am Ben Moon.

Dylog tries, works it all out but has a bit of a whitey about the
pocket before the crux. It feels like a jug to me, so I dont know what
counsel to give. He finds an alternative method and puts in some good
links. Back to me. Redpoint goes. From the ground I climb well, and
confidently, but manage to scum my toe under the roof on some milky
slime, such that when I try to use that foot again I get nothing from
it and fall. Thats ok, its the first time I have been on it in years.
I climb from there to the top. Another good link - I'm pretty happy
with how it all felt after such an absence. Dylog gets to the pocket
but cant make it work. Although we have another couple of goes, the
return I'm getting is diminishing and I put my boots away to wait for
another time.

The walk out is lovely, and we stop off at Rubicon to do the route of
the same name on the way home. Been a couple of years, and the holds
have changed again, but its still a fun route, and about the right
length!

Thats climbing over until Monday at the earliest. This weekend is stag
2 up in the Yorkshire dales, mountain biking with my non climbing
friends. Am well looking forwards to it!