Tuesday 23 June 2009

Normal service resumed

As I walked to the shop to get a sandwich I thought it felt
suprisingly close. Humidity and warmth are not generally sought after
conditions for rock climbing, and with that in mind I wondered what I
should do, and where I should go when 3pm arrived. Given that Stag do
2 is this weekend, I should be riding this week - getting ready for
the weekend, but as I havent climbed much since Swizzy so I wanted to
get back on it and to the Tor I went.

Someone is writing a guide to Minus Ten at the moment. I like Minus
Ten, and I will buy a copy when it is published. These thoughts were
in my head as I drove through Stoney, but I didnt stop. No, I shall
save my bi annual minus ten session for when I am in possession of
this guide. Besides, I had designs on the right hand side of the Tor -
it was time to get involved with Staminaband once more.

There was noone at the Tor when I arrived, and it was boiling. A few
cars in the layby, but they must belong to fishermen as the dale was
tranquil. No crag banter, no chink of karabiners being clipped. I
warmed up, literally - as it was boiling but there was a pleasant
breeze being funneled by the trees down the shady right side.
Thankfully, this was where I was headed. All wasnt completely perfect
however - the base of the crag seemed to have taken on a greenish hue.
Things seemed like they had been damp, but not from seepage. Perhaps
some sort of condensation taking place.

Thought I was going to do the powerband. I have only ever done this
once. I find the last move so desperate (doing it the proper way,
reaching down with the right hand into the undercut), so its always on
the menu for me as I can always get there - the end that is, but never
usually seal the deal. I blast through the meat of the traverse and
find myself feeling suprisingly sparky and remembering to settle my
fingers on the edge of the last pocket. I walk my feet, try to relax
and fall off. Never mind I think, I felt noticeably better at the end
this time. I must be getting fitter (or just better at doing
Powerband?). After a few laps on the last move from a couple of moves
in, I try but fail once more.

Undeterred, I move rightwards to the start of Staminaband (good logic
- cant do the end traverse, make it harder!). I have tried Staminaband
on and off for years. For ages it was strength or technique which
stopped me - I just couldnt do the moves. Then I could do the moves
but not together. Then, maybe two or three years ago I got a bit
fitter and was getting to the end, and it looked on. Well, there's
some work to do to get back there I can tell you. I climb into
Powerband with a bit of a wobble getting out of the undercuts - but
this old bogey move is getting easier. Its not too great a leap of
faith to imagine being able to glide past it effortlessly (a la
Harris). I am aware of someone else having arrived watching and I fall
off early in the Powerband. Its Dave Hesleden. We chat, he heads off
home, such is my charm and wit.

My goes get better, and I find myself failing at the middle 'pillar'
of powerband. The problem with trying Staminaband and being on your
own at the crag is that you have to rest for ages and its very boring.
I play sudoku on my phone in between goes, but I am clearly quite
dense and my mind wanders... Thankfully, Dan Walker, Karl Bacon and
Andy Hutch turn up and save me from myself. We chat, they warm up, I
have a quick go on Blueband - finally working out a way of doing the
first move. As I have never been able to do this before, so the go
when I do it is the best go of my life. Still, I fail on the first
'hard' move (after the first one), but I'm pleased. Its good to have
things to focus on.

So, the rest of this week then. I hope to go out on Wednesday.
Thinking of trying to get to Entree if I can find someone else keen to
come...

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