Just got back from a lunchtime raid on Caley. Takes me 18 minutes from work - although you could probably trim that a bit if you drive like a maniac. One other car in the layby but no signs of anyone on the blocs. Dragged pad to otley wall and bimbled up that and the thing to its left. Popped and did new jerusalem and (is it called?)Finger knacker crack? Then on to zoo york/blockbuster.
Questing through the bracken all alone, imagine my horror when I see three lads trying BB! Aargh! Decide have no time to be nice and leave them to it, so I rock up, offer them my pad and then sit down and put my boots on. The young lad trying is fully battering up the holds and getting nowhere. I start brushing in the hope he will get the message and stop sieging the move. He doesn’t, so I push in. Hand on the horizontal pinchy thing I make sure I am stood on the ground (i.e. kicking their pads out the way) and jump for the boss. It sticks. I paste my foot on and bump left to the edge, feels ok. Right hand up, and eyeballing the sloper thing I have a valiant go but its not enough and I flip back to the pads. One of the lads says 'have you come to try this...' pointing to Zoo York, and I'm like - well not really, but you want a good spot an loads of pads, and they say - no worries mate and drag off all the pads! Feel I sort of have to have a go, but surprise myself by getting to the right hand sidepull on first go. Move undercutting that to the edge on the arete feels desperate and codfinger is moaning about not wanting to be used so I admit defeat and get back on Blockbuster. Nail the bulb and get into the position, but some how left hand flies off and I am on my ar5e on the pads! Have a rest and then bish bosh wallop I'm back on the bulb. Left hand up, take a bit more time settling the hand and bounce right up, feels strangely better, pull weight over left foot and eyeball the very top of the sloper, then pop - and its on! Run feet round and bounce up the arete to glory. Fantastic - another new problem in the bag!
Part company with the lads and go on to Ben's groove. Phone TC and get some beta - what will I do come Tuesday!? Hold the sloper on the top of the arete and then pivot right to a shallow pockety drag thing, left foot on and left hand up to crack - SCARY! Right foot goes back to the groove, but I don’t feel secure and it looks a long way to the lonely pad bent backwards over a spikey death boulder! Back off and after another 'do I have more confidence?' go, sack it back to work. A lovely lunch break.
Friday, 13 April 2007
1-4-7-psyche!
Had first at board campus and rings only session last night. Think I could get into this for a couple of weeks! its not that hard to not climb, but I think thats because its a change from only climbing (in other words, I will get bored).
The problem with only bouldering all the time is that you always want to get better. By definition, getting better is pushing your standard, and that means operating at your limits. Limits are things that stop you from breaking, so it stands to reason that operating at them puts you at greater risk of hurting yourself. This is why I so look forwards to the summer routes season, as at the start I am rubbish and scared and worried about falling onto bolts and crap at not getting pumped, but its a change and that's fun. As the summer wears on I get into my groove and start to get better, and by the end of summer I am ready for the change back to Boulders. Both mentally and physically this is refreshing and prevents staleness and injury.
Last night James announced he was thinking about just bouldering all year! A talented and capable route climber, he has been sucked into the Sheffield power vortex - a seedy, dark netherworld where one arm pull ups are revered over hard routes/sends. Still, he is my injury buddy, so perhaps I can subliminally sew the seeds of route glory. I would have thought with his first 8a under his belt that he would be keen to get involved again. Perhaps he found redpointing a consuming and tortuous process? I like it. 8a routes are about 7b/7b+ bloc - doable in a day, and they say '8a' on them. Anne calls it bouldering with a belay, and thats what I want to do - not interested in 25m stamina plodding.
Yesterday daytime I popped to Burbage valley at lunchtime (its 8mins from the house) for an hour. Only really wanted to potter and did some easy route soloing. Very warm and rather humid. Did one new problem (for me) called All sit down (7b+). A bit esoterica to be honest - took about half an hour but had a pleasing rock over to a pebble. Anyway, better do some work - going to Caley at lunchtime to finish BlockBuster.
The problem with only bouldering all the time is that you always want to get better. By definition, getting better is pushing your standard, and that means operating at your limits. Limits are things that stop you from breaking, so it stands to reason that operating at them puts you at greater risk of hurting yourself. This is why I so look forwards to the summer routes season, as at the start I am rubbish and scared and worried about falling onto bolts and crap at not getting pumped, but its a change and that's fun. As the summer wears on I get into my groove and start to get better, and by the end of summer I am ready for the change back to Boulders. Both mentally and physically this is refreshing and prevents staleness and injury.
Last night James announced he was thinking about just bouldering all year! A talented and capable route climber, he has been sucked into the Sheffield power vortex - a seedy, dark netherworld where one arm pull ups are revered over hard routes/sends. Still, he is my injury buddy, so perhaps I can subliminally sew the seeds of route glory. I would have thought with his first 8a under his belt that he would be keen to get involved again. Perhaps he found redpointing a consuming and tortuous process? I like it. 8a routes are about 7b/7b+ bloc - doable in a day, and they say '8a' on them. Anne calls it bouldering with a belay, and thats what I want to do - not interested in 25m stamina plodding.
Yesterday daytime I popped to Burbage valley at lunchtime (its 8mins from the house) for an hour. Only really wanted to potter and did some easy route soloing. Very warm and rather humid. Did one new problem (for me) called All sit down (7b+). A bit esoterica to be honest - took about half an hour but had a pleasing rock over to a pebble. Anyway, better do some work - going to Caley at lunchtime to finish BlockBuster.
Wednesday, 11 April 2007
Fishy Easter - the end of TC
Aw Rubbish! codfinger is still bad. I think I am going to have two weeks of non climbing. I say that, but I really want to go to Rubicon! I have to be good and think of the things I want to climb this summer which involve having a full compliment of working fingers. Therefore, the short term need should be shelved pending the long term hopes and aspirations. Its an arse though, especially as the weather is nice and I want to be outside! Discussed with TC at Leeds yesterday and its an opportunity to train and do something other than bouldering for a couple of weeks. This wont do me any harm and should be viewed as a training period rather than a lay off. I have to get codfinger better and get back to crimping, so with that in mind I will be campussing, running, doing weights, training in the rings and doing longer problems with no right hand crimps for two to three weeks. TC also firmly believes that climbing on bolt on holds is a great way to make an injury worse. They are so tweaky and the dynamic nature of indoor climbing lends itself to lurching for odd shaped holds that strain the fingers disproportionately. So, no indoor bouldering for a couple of weeks. Circuits, campus and rings - thats the answer. I just need a goal on the campus board, and thats going to be 1-5-8 at leeds on the small rungs and 1-4-7 at the school.
A week yesterday (17th April) TC and family C go to Canada. I'm going to miss him/them. Everything in Clifford land is pretty chaotic this week as they box up their possessions, sell stuff, give things away and try to remember all the stuff that needs to be done/cancelled/thought about before they go. Imagine the feeling of relief when they actually get on the plane! when I have planned a trip and its me that organised it all I am always stressing that I have forgotten to do something/will it all be allright/have I printed out all the details/forgotten driving license before I get to the airport, and until I have checked in to the flight, its still all in my head, but it all seems to drift away then and I realise I am going away and its going to be better than being at work. Difference is, he is going for ever and I usually only have a week! Dead dead jealous - not only does he get to live the dream - having a climbing other half, but he is going to go and live somewhere amazing with loads of new stuff to climb. Got to be honest though, without the sequence computing machine that is me I think his effectiveness will be limited and he wont realise his full potential, and with that in mind I shall have to go over and coach him when he has sorted out somewhere for me to stay.
So, thats it for now. Climbed on Monday with the Honey monster (yes, you read that right!) at Rubicon and was a bit rubbish to be honest. Codfinger doesnt hurt as much outside which is good, and I made some progress on Tsunami sitter, getting to the sidepull on the Press from the ground, but not even doing that move. When I did caviar I got to the last move! It was ace getting the honey monster to come climbing - my two favorite things at once - fab!
A week yesterday (17th April) TC and family C go to Canada. I'm going to miss him/them. Everything in Clifford land is pretty chaotic this week as they box up their possessions, sell stuff, give things away and try to remember all the stuff that needs to be done/cancelled/thought about before they go. Imagine the feeling of relief when they actually get on the plane! when I have planned a trip and its me that organised it all I am always stressing that I have forgotten to do something/will it all be allright/have I printed out all the details/forgotten driving license before I get to the airport, and until I have checked in to the flight, its still all in my head, but it all seems to drift away then and I realise I am going away and its going to be better than being at work. Difference is, he is going for ever and I usually only have a week! Dead dead jealous - not only does he get to live the dream - having a climbing other half, but he is going to go and live somewhere amazing with loads of new stuff to climb. Got to be honest though, without the sequence computing machine that is me I think his effectiveness will be limited and he wont realise his full potential, and with that in mind I shall have to go over and coach him when he has sorted out somewhere for me to stay.
So, thats it for now. Climbed on Monday with the Honey monster (yes, you read that right!) at Rubicon and was a bit rubbish to be honest. Codfinger doesnt hurt as much outside which is good, and I made some progress on Tsunami sitter, getting to the sidepull on the Press from the ground, but not even doing that move. When I did caviar I got to the last move! It was ace getting the honey monster to come climbing - my two favorite things at once - fab!
Thursday, 5 April 2007
New crag discovered in Yorkshire
I am pleased to announce the discovery of a new and quality bouldering crag in Yorkshire. The crag is located just above the a660 near Pool, just north of Leeds. I shall refer to it as 'Caley'. In 6 years of working in or around Leeds I can't believe I haven't stumbled across it before now. My multi day foraging quests for new blocs are legendary (at all times wearing my trusty pith helmet) - it was I that opened 'Almscliff' with my ascents of at least two 7a's in 2005. There's quite a lot to do, but any potential suitors should note that as with other crags in 'Yorkshire', the grades are two or three grades easier than similar in the home of hard rock climbing - the Peak district. The natives should be avoided, miserable sods they are (although some of them are quite handy).
I did some quality first ascents including : New Jerusalem (so should have flashed this, got to the good rail with the left hand and failed to move feet! - 2nd go), Otley Wall (BETA flash) and the Secret Seventh. There was some other stuff too, but I don't remember their names. I have sent my guide a text to find out what they were called but I think he must have gone to bed. Anyway, had a go on a problem called Blockbuster. Start with your left on a grippy good boss and jump to a ok-if-you-catch-it-right pinch (I hate jump starts) then left foot on and right hand to a sharp edge (first goes I was trying to flag too much, dropped that and was ok, but then started to not be able to do the jump!), right hand to rubbish sloping thing and then go again to jug (got here a bunch but kept gayley slapping for the jug and getting it too low down. Ah well, landing is good, I will pop out one afternoon. Then I got involved with Zoo York. After some feeling of the holds and trying the start positions I was falling off getting my right hand to the undercut crimp with my foot lock in. Worked this move and found a foot lock sweet spot and it was easy, from here theres a hard move with the left hand shooting up to a tape box edge on the arete, then the right toe moves up to another toe drag, and left foot pastes on the left wall and presses in - again, theres a sweet spot in there somewhere, which, once found means the move to the next sidepull (for the right hand) is steady. Adjust the right hand and create some tension for the release. Take the right toe out and hold the swing, left heel (I think this might be wrong, it might be a toe for me) to the ear thing and bump left to a good hold (this move isnt actually that hard, but it is quite scary), then rtoe goes back behind an edge and you go and go again to a jug - didnt continue to the top from here, but apparently its not that bad. Psyched! totally feasible but fully nails your skin. Hmm.
Back to Burley in Wharfedale to visit the spawn of clifford and then home to campus for 30 mins. Well done - you really needed that!
I did some quality first ascents including : New Jerusalem (so should have flashed this, got to the good rail with the left hand and failed to move feet! - 2nd go), Otley Wall (BETA flash) and the Secret Seventh. There was some other stuff too, but I don't remember their names. I have sent my guide a text to find out what they were called but I think he must have gone to bed. Anyway, had a go on a problem called Blockbuster. Start with your left on a grippy good boss and jump to a ok-if-you-catch-it-right pinch (I hate jump starts) then left foot on and right hand to a sharp edge (first goes I was trying to flag too much, dropped that and was ok, but then started to not be able to do the jump!), right hand to rubbish sloping thing and then go again to jug (got here a bunch but kept gayley slapping for the jug and getting it too low down. Ah well, landing is good, I will pop out one afternoon. Then I got involved with Zoo York. After some feeling of the holds and trying the start positions I was falling off getting my right hand to the undercut crimp with my foot lock in. Worked this move and found a foot lock sweet spot and it was easy, from here theres a hard move with the left hand shooting up to a tape box edge on the arete, then the right toe moves up to another toe drag, and left foot pastes on the left wall and presses in - again, theres a sweet spot in there somewhere, which, once found means the move to the next sidepull (for the right hand) is steady. Adjust the right hand and create some tension for the release. Take the right toe out and hold the swing, left heel (I think this might be wrong, it might be a toe for me) to the ear thing and bump left to a good hold (this move isnt actually that hard, but it is quite scary), then rtoe goes back behind an edge and you go and go again to a jug - didnt continue to the top from here, but apparently its not that bad. Psyched! totally feasible but fully nails your skin. Hmm.
Back to Burley in Wharfedale to visit the spawn of clifford and then home to campus for 30 mins. Well done - you really needed that!
Monday, 2 April 2007
Burbage south bumbly
Had a lovely afternoon this aft at BBG south. A friends son was up (4.5) and loves climbing, so I collected them from Grindleford station this morning at 1145. Blazed a trail to BBG south and walked up through the ever impressive quarries - marvelling at the Cioch on the way in. Such an amazing block, I would love to do something there but sadly my testicles are too small. Spent the afternoon mainly in instructor mode but enjoyed some of the fun easier climbing on the boulders. Was pleased to do the sheep thing - starting left in the crack, right in a pocket then up to another cleft thing. At first I just could not do it save french starting to the cleft, and I wasn't going to settle for that. Eventually found a sequence and pulled on with my left foot pasted against the opposing wall of the crack, rocked onto lf and reached into the cleft, then leaning out on rh and bringing lh up, some lurching and its done. Once again, my technical mastery of the subtle art of gritstone is apparent as I spend half an hour climbing a 6c+!
Gorgeous weather all day today. Was pleased to be A) Alive, and B) out climbing! made me remember how much I hate being at work when the sun is out. Its tough sitting at my desk looking out the window when the weather is mint. Which brings me to my next point - back to work tomorrow. Usually in a week off I would still be fiddling with the damned blackberry, but this week I have turned the little fucker off and stuffed it to the back of a drawer. This is a good thing, but also has made the return to work all the more painful. The dilemma is - if you stay in touch and never really leave work then you don't have any fear about what you are going back to, but you are always at work and never truly switch off. If you don't get that stressed out about work then I guess you might think you can cope like that, but I reckon although you may not think you are getting stressed out, you might be bottling it up. Basically, I go back to work tomorrow and I am dreading it. I think that means I have had a really nice time not being at work, and not thinking about it and now its edging back into my concious. Anyway, TC is back in Leeds and I we are training at leeds tomorrow in the day - that should soften the return to work somewhat.
Training again tomorrow and thursday. Then we are into Easter and I just want to get to rubicon and get Tsunami done.
By the way - 300 only gets a 6/10 in my book. Lacking substance.
Gorgeous weather all day today. Was pleased to be A) Alive, and B) out climbing! made me remember how much I hate being at work when the sun is out. Its tough sitting at my desk looking out the window when the weather is mint. Which brings me to my next point - back to work tomorrow. Usually in a week off I would still be fiddling with the damned blackberry, but this week I have turned the little fucker off and stuffed it to the back of a drawer. This is a good thing, but also has made the return to work all the more painful. The dilemma is - if you stay in touch and never really leave work then you don't have any fear about what you are going back to, but you are always at work and never truly switch off. If you don't get that stressed out about work then I guess you might think you can cope like that, but I reckon although you may not think you are getting stressed out, you might be bottling it up. Basically, I go back to work tomorrow and I am dreading it. I think that means I have had a really nice time not being at work, and not thinking about it and now its edging back into my concious. Anyway, TC is back in Leeds and I we are training at leeds tomorrow in the day - that should soften the return to work somewhat.
Training again tomorrow and thursday. Then we are into Easter and I just want to get to rubicon and get Tsunami done.
By the way - 300 only gets a 6/10 in my book. Lacking substance.
Sunday, 1 April 2007
Turning the codfinger?
Going to the cinema to watch that 300 (the battle of thermopylae) in a min, so just a quickie with post holiday climbing goings on:
Thursday - works. Did all green and pink spots - didnt fall off. Started climbing with Dave musgrove on some pinks and did fall off but felt ok, and not too fat! Did a spot of campussing and felt a bit tired. Codfinger taped straight to prevent being able to hurt it - seems ok.
Saturday - TC down from Leeds. Head to turningstone and phone Jon for beta. Looks a bit like esoterica to be honest, but the climbing on the river of life is very good and certainly worth the drive. Worked a sequence, and TC came close but I think I was being gay and protecting the cod. Anyway, neither of us did it so we sacked it to Rubicon. Met two guys from Leeds we both knew and sat in the sun chatting for 20 mins - lovely. Sun shimmering off the water, and a nice cool breeze - perfect. Warmed up again, but felt tired. TC pulled on and did the press. I did the press. TC shuffled up to the low left start and did Tsunami sitter in total control! bastard! I reaquainted myself and got into the sidepull but felt tired. TC fell off low right press and then did low left! sacked it home. Good to be back at Rubicon and codfinger not too bad - will be back, and soon!
Cornwall report
Have been meaning to write something about Cornwall since we got back, but been on with other stuff, and doing all that I can to loose the bloat! So, went to Fowey on the Sunday and stayed here : 
Very nice. Nice view over the harbour and all thats stuff. Both Fowey and Polruan really quaint and unspoilt, well worth a visit if you are down : 
Had a nice evening and ate here : 
Very nice. Nice view over the harbour and all thats stuff. Both Fowey and Polruan really quaint and unspoilt, well worth a visit if you are down : Had a nice evening and ate here : Next day we went to the lizard - beautiful :
Then to Lands end and found it pretty touristifyed and a bit disappointing, nevertheless - sure to get the obligatory photo of the signpost thing : 
. Pressed on to Pendeen (as we live on Pendeen road) and found a picturesque council estate. continued to St Ives where we were staying for two nights - man, what a pikey hole! really touristifyed and pretty grim. At least the sun was out : 
so we cancelled our second night and went to the chippy. Next day we continued to perranporth, crantock : 
, and finally to Padstow where we managed to get a room at Rick Stein's Seafood restaurant. I think we were really lucky to get in as usually you have to book a million years in advance, and turning up on spec and getting a room, let alone a table is unheard of! still, it was out of season and we were lucky. As it was March you get 30% off, which made the room £120 for the night. A fitting end to a lovely trip. Food was great as you would expect from Rick, I had plaice goujons and she had lemon sole. Here is a padstow pic : 
. Next morning, we jetted up to Topsham (nr Exeter - where i was born) and had a quick walk, followed by a pint : 
. Home Via me mams and then back to Sheffield on Thursday lunchtime.
Cornwall is gorgeous. If you get the weather its just a wonderful place to be. I think we plan to go back in August around my birthday. A lovely honey holiday, all good for the rehabilitation of codfinger!
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