Aw Rubbish! codfinger is still bad. I think I am going to have two weeks of non climbing. I say that, but I really want to go to Rubicon! I have to be good and think of the things I want to climb this summer which involve having a full compliment of working fingers. Therefore, the short term need should be shelved pending the long term hopes and aspirations. Its an arse though, especially as the weather is nice and I want to be outside! Discussed with TC at Leeds yesterday and its an opportunity to train and do something other than bouldering for a couple of weeks. This wont do me any harm and should be viewed as a training period rather than a lay off. I have to get codfinger better and get back to crimping, so with that in mind I will be campussing, running, doing weights, training in the rings and doing longer problems with no right hand crimps for two to three weeks. TC also firmly believes that climbing on bolt on holds is a great way to make an injury worse. They are so tweaky and the dynamic nature of indoor climbing lends itself to lurching for odd shaped holds that strain the fingers disproportionately. So, no indoor bouldering for a couple of weeks. Circuits, campus and rings - thats the answer. I just need a goal on the campus board, and thats going to be 1-5-8 at leeds on the small rungs and 1-4-7 at the school.
A week yesterday (17th April) TC and family C go to Canada. I'm going to miss him/them. Everything in Clifford land is pretty chaotic this week as they box up their possessions, sell stuff, give things away and try to remember all the stuff that needs to be done/cancelled/thought about before they go. Imagine the feeling of relief when they actually get on the plane! when I have planned a trip and its me that organised it all I am always stressing that I have forgotten to do something/will it all be allright/have I printed out all the details/forgotten driving license before I get to the airport, and until I have checked in to the flight, its still all in my head, but it all seems to drift away then and I realise I am going away and its going to be better than being at work. Difference is, he is going for ever and I usually only have a week! Dead dead jealous - not only does he get to live the dream - having a climbing other half, but he is going to go and live somewhere amazing with loads of new stuff to climb. Got to be honest though, without the sequence computing machine that is me I think his effectiveness will be limited and he wont realise his full potential, and with that in mind I shall have to go over and coach him when he has sorted out somewhere for me to stay.
So, thats it for now. Climbed on Monday with the Honey monster (yes, you read that right!) at Rubicon and was a bit rubbish to be honest. Codfinger doesnt hurt as much outside which is good, and I made some progress on Tsunami sitter, getting to the sidepull on the Press from the ground, but not even doing that move. When I did caviar I got to the last move! It was ace getting the honey monster to come climbing - my two favorite things at once - fab!
3 comments:
Yes tis a shame that TC will not be around. Clearly an inspiring force in UK bouldering, but no doubt he will tear it up in Canada and you can pass on all the news as you get it. Perhaps he should start a blog too, "The Daily Clifford" would be a good read.
Sorry to hear that the codfinger is still bad. You are probably doing the wise thing in giving it a decent rest as by aggrevating it over time, you will develop lingering scar tissue and a chronic injury which is never a good thing, so stay off that bloody Tsunami you crazy cat! (although you can always spot me on it....)
anyone else up to owt this weekend?
Sounds like an opportunity to work your sloper strength and get some classic easier outdoor mileage (or even do a bit of routage!?) while you recover.
Saturday I am going to Malham/Kilnsey. Sunday working on the van, boooooo.
So psyched they're moving to C!! That much closer to me now... I, too, am waiting for them to get set up so I can occupy their couch.
-Robyn
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