Just got back from a lunchtime raid on Caley. Takes me 18 minutes from work - although you could probably trim that a bit if you drive like a maniac. One other car in the layby but no signs of anyone on the blocs. Dragged pad to otley wall and bimbled up that and the thing to its left. Popped and did new jerusalem and (is it called?)Finger knacker crack? Then on to zoo york/blockbuster.
Questing through the bracken all alone, imagine my horror when I see three lads trying BB! Aargh! Decide have no time to be nice and leave them to it, so I rock up, offer them my pad and then sit down and put my boots on. The young lad trying is fully battering up the holds and getting nowhere. I start brushing in the hope he will get the message and stop sieging the move. He doesn’t, so I push in. Hand on the horizontal pinchy thing I make sure I am stood on the ground (i.e. kicking their pads out the way) and jump for the boss. It sticks. I paste my foot on and bump left to the edge, feels ok. Right hand up, and eyeballing the sloper thing I have a valiant go but its not enough and I flip back to the pads. One of the lads says 'have you come to try this...' pointing to Zoo York, and I'm like - well not really, but you want a good spot an loads of pads, and they say - no worries mate and drag off all the pads! Feel I sort of have to have a go, but surprise myself by getting to the right hand sidepull on first go. Move undercutting that to the edge on the arete feels desperate and codfinger is moaning about not wanting to be used so I admit defeat and get back on Blockbuster. Nail the bulb and get into the position, but some how left hand flies off and I am on my ar5e on the pads! Have a rest and then bish bosh wallop I'm back on the bulb. Left hand up, take a bit more time settling the hand and bounce right up, feels strangely better, pull weight over left foot and eyeball the very top of the sloper, then pop - and its on! Run feet round and bounce up the arete to glory. Fantastic - another new problem in the bag!
Part company with the lads and go on to Ben's groove. Phone TC and get some beta - what will I do come Tuesday!? Hold the sloper on the top of the arete and then pivot right to a shallow pockety drag thing, left foot on and left hand up to crack - SCARY! Right foot goes back to the groove, but I don’t feel secure and it looks a long way to the lonely pad bent backwards over a spikey death boulder! Back off and after another 'do I have more confidence?' go, sack it back to work. A lovely lunch break.
10 comments:
so beast how was the telecommunication conference? i love cressbrook. need some beta for the end of jericho... did all moves on moffatroicty, but my feet/skin/sunburn were murder having fannied about at stoney for too long. anyway the main meat lets do thormen's moth.
Would love to - lets get involved, I have never been to manifold. 7c+/8a Jon reckons, get it done in a day!
When you thinking of heading there? Am involved in trying Grooved Arete at Kilnseys but might be tempted over to Thors.
BTW am hoping to head over to Cressbrook on Tues eve if anyone is keen.
er, you're a monster. I'm a talented route climber. but i have a tweaky finger and the flu. bugger. god maybe saturday? i dunno, have a gay birthday thing in scarbogohorror weekend afetr this and am going cornwall with moolcake for a week after that. dead keen. obviously its 7c+/8a but how hard are the moves, and are there any grim holds for the right hand...
The moves?
Steady wall on crimps with a trickyish slap to a jug, this move feels easy and takes little energy when you get it figured. Leftward trav via big undercut (semi-rest in undercut is possible), then a tricky two finger pocket to two finger pocket cross through, then reach up into the steepness and get a three finger peg scar pocket with RH, the crux is slapping off this into a big hueco pod. The rest is horizontal on big but spaced pockets, very three-D. Finishes on jugs a few moves after the big ugly chain belay of Kyrie Eleison (the aid route).
None of the moves are at all hard in bouldering terms. As it was originally an aid line the bolts are close together, you'll be pleased to know.
almost too many to clip I heard!
Not my doing mind. I only re-equiped the first half (the top had good bolts already) and put less bolts in than the bolts and threads they replaced.
That said the old Pollit bolts still need removing (did't have right size spanner with me and ratchets don't fit due to the eye). So if you do go, bring a 15mm ring spanner and a hammer.
i'm getting a boner.
how about saturday???
no chance. Saturday I am going to climb 2 8as on the Kudos wall.
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