First up, lets get one thing straight - when I whinge on about being fat I am spouting off more than I am actually thinking I am obese. This blog is a sounding off post for me to vent my spleen about anything and everything - I know I'm not obese, so don't fret - I would like to be lighter as its a quick way to climbing harder, but I recognise its not an end in itself, and that if I am climbing ok then not to worry too much. Its also featuring at the moment as its in my concious, as she bought us some bathroom scales. Whilst i never knew before, I do now, and the novelty has yet to wear off. Weight and climbing is a balancing act, if you are too light then you have no beans and you feel faint and rubbish, but if you weigh too much you feel sluggish and can't use small holds. Nibs comment was right, you need to find the right weight for your size, where you have a balance of light and energy.
Ok, so Monday was a campus and rings session at the board. JoleSa, Vik and Nige turned up and I felt a bit generally tired and rubbish. Didn't put that much into the session, and didn't get that much out of it as a result. Mondays are a funny day for training, you should be fully rested after the weekend, but sometimes the horror of a 0600 start when you have been getting up at 9 seems to knock you back.
This week its Jon's leaving do on Thursday, so Wednesday/Thursday climbing has become Tuesday/Thursday. Last night I was back late from work, went home for a cuppa and then to train at the school on my own for a few hours. Sometimes the group psyche carries you, but sometimes you get on better by yourself. The plan was volume. 45 minutes of warm up finishing with some quite taxing problems followed by 10 sets of 5 easy problems with no rest between reps - 3 minutes between sets. Did the standard warm ups and changed to the cheating hooked shoes (V10) and failed on Driller killer (start of the harder problems) which didn't bode well. I haven't fallen off Driller killer in years. Decided to try the move on Total Recoil and after a couple of goes did it and carried on to the top. Felt like too much to ask to do Pego, so rested up and did Total Recoil from the ground. Pretty pleased with myself, I had already decided to give Basic Ben a stab, and after trying the move I suprised myself by doing it in good style. Did Basic Ben from the ground. Very pleased. Cleaned up a problem I did years ago called Peter Pan handle. Again, I suprised myself and did the hard move out left comfortably, then failed on the top section.
From here I set my stopwatch to meter out my rests and positioned myself by the fan in an attempt to cool my hands down. I must have had about 10 goes, each getting a move or half a move closer to the top, it was looking like it was so on that I was convinced I would do it. Only when I felt the quality of goes reduce did I let up and admit it wasnt to be. I really thought it was in the bag, so I filmed about three or four goes, which I shall spare you from having to sit through and leave you with the last one that was filmed. Yes, its a failure but felt I should do something with all this footage I produced!
So much of how a climbing session goes depends on your mental state. I dont mean like mental health, I mean, are you tired? what are your goals? why do you want to do them? - basically, are you psyched? This is where the difference between working and not comes in. I dont reckon non-working climbers do that much more actual climbing, but its that you've nothing else to concentrate on, climbing is the focus so its easy to be psyched out of your mind each time you go.
A good session. 7.6/10.
Wednesday, 4 July 2007
Monday, 2 July 2007
Black Gold
I love Marmite. Always have, always will. So, when someone at work said that there was a new Guiness Marmite I got excited. I looked in supermarkets but never managed to find this most elusive of spreads. Imagine my joy on arriving at work this morning to find a pot of Guiness Marmite on my desk. Someone here had managed to find some and was kind enough to buy me a pot. Mmmm Hmmm.
So, the weekend. Friday night, she and I walked up to Catch (the upstairs fish restaurant in Crosspool) for a scran and after a few drinks returned home stuffed but happy. Saturday morning brought with it rain. She had an event to work at over in Ashton, so I delivered her and then set off back to the Tor. Pretty quiet really, Ru, Dave Parry, Stone and some other familiar faces but crag largely wet. Very disappointing. No chance on Stamina Band - pretty much all the holds were knackered. There was water running freely from some of the powerband pockets. Rubbish. Pinches wall = dry, Ben's roof, clammy but dry.
Do some bimbling on pinches wall and think to myself that this rain and wetness could actually be an opportunity to finally do the bear claw. Its quite hard though and I dont make any headway (convinced that if its only 7c, theres got to be a trick I am missing). Decide to go up to Ben's roof and remember about the direct finish which I have yet to link. Pull on and feel light and spritely, put the egyptian in and crimp the sharp edge - feel fine - which is good, reach out for the sharp left hand edge and walk feet across to the foot hueco, feeling in complete control and consumate style, put right foot up in the roof and turn in, but the bloody foot hold is soaking! just about get into the egyptian and then my foot shoots off the hold and I'm off. Bloody hell. Spend a bit of time working an alternative sequence, as to be honest, it would be quite nice to do without that egyptian in the roof as it is a bit gay. Dont manage to find a better way that isnt dead hard but get the finish wired. Fingers hurty, so sack it back to Manchester in convoy with Rupert and collect the Honey Monster.
We push on to Heaton moor where we're meeting our friends for a Nepalese meal. Have a lovely evening, but eat far too much (so that feel a bit sick), and get drunk. Shambolic the next day, but alka seltzer sorts that out and we head home to do the shopping and chill our boots.
Weighed in heavy last night - 11st 6. I was 11st4 before the weekend. Dammit. On Saturday I managed a 1lb shit. I weighed myself before - 11st4 and then after 11st3, so a few more of them beauties and I will be flashing 8b! Training tonight at the board.
So, the weekend. Friday night, she and I walked up to Catch (the upstairs fish restaurant in Crosspool) for a scran and after a few drinks returned home stuffed but happy. Saturday morning brought with it rain. She had an event to work at over in Ashton, so I delivered her and then set off back to the Tor. Pretty quiet really, Ru, Dave Parry, Stone and some other familiar faces but crag largely wet. Very disappointing. No chance on Stamina Band - pretty much all the holds were knackered. There was water running freely from some of the powerband pockets. Rubbish. Pinches wall = dry, Ben's roof, clammy but dry.Do some bimbling on pinches wall and think to myself that this rain and wetness could actually be an opportunity to finally do the bear claw. Its quite hard though and I dont make any headway (convinced that if its only 7c, theres got to be a trick I am missing). Decide to go up to Ben's roof and remember about the direct finish which I have yet to link. Pull on and feel light and spritely, put the egyptian in and crimp the sharp edge - feel fine - which is good, reach out for the sharp left hand edge and walk feet across to the foot hueco, feeling in complete control and consumate style, put right foot up in the roof and turn in, but the bloody foot hold is soaking! just about get into the egyptian and then my foot shoots off the hold and I'm off. Bloody hell. Spend a bit of time working an alternative sequence, as to be honest, it would be quite nice to do without that egyptian in the roof as it is a bit gay. Dont manage to find a better way that isnt dead hard but get the finish wired. Fingers hurty, so sack it back to Manchester in convoy with Rupert and collect the Honey Monster.
We push on to Heaton moor where we're meeting our friends for a Nepalese meal. Have a lovely evening, but eat far too much (so that feel a bit sick), and get drunk. Shambolic the next day, but alka seltzer sorts that out and we head home to do the shopping and chill our boots.
Weighed in heavy last night - 11st 6. I was 11st4 before the weekend. Dammit. On Saturday I managed a 1lb shit. I weighed myself before - 11st4 and then after 11st3, so a few more of them beauties and I will be flashing 8b! Training tonight at the board.
Friday, 29 June 2007
What a fat knacker...
After all the whinging that I had put on loads of weight in Sardinia I think the scales in the school might be wrong. Basically, before I went away I was 10.5st - or so it said at the school, when I came back I was almost 11.5st and that's what started this whole downward spiral of blubber obsessed conciousness. She had Monday off, bought some fancy-whizz-bang scales which weighed me at 11st 6 = 11.5st, which is what the school said, so I thought it must be correct. Went to the school again on Tuesday and was at 10.75st, down to 11st 4 at home. Yesterday (thursday) the school said 10.5st and home said 11st2. So, given that the home scales have not been thumbed by the great and good of british rock climbing I am assuming they are correct. Which brings me to my next point, which is - I don't want to be 11.5st! I want to be 10.5st! I don't know why I have so stigmatised 11st in my head, but I have, and I don't like it! TC once said that Jerry used to advise going for a long walk and not eating as a vehicle for weight loss. Watch this space.
Since Mondays flood based debacle, I have climbed to the point of destruction! its been great! Tuesday I went to the board with James in the day and did so much volume I couldn't do chalk and blow at the end. Wednesday I had a late afternoon in the works. Ryan, Dave Barrans, Adam Lincoln and Tyler all knocking around (quite strong that Tyler youth - needs a shave mind) and again, I climbed volume to the point of destruction. Did some up problems before starting to flail on one of these traverses thats been created for the difficulty team - no hard moves, but lots of swinging around in the middle of a roof with minimal feet, anyway, RMan's mate comes in - oh my god! he is massive. Arnold massive - amazing, the last time I saw him climb he was rubbish. He had rubbish footwork but was very strong in a straight line. He pulled straight on to this traverse (as far as I could see) and blazed past my high point, right the way to the end, my eyes were out on stalks! a further battering for my psyche - he must be fit. Apparently he wants to climb font8a by the end of the year. Having seen his previous attempts at going up rather than along I would have said no chance, but in light of this most recent development, maybe its on!
Thursday I went to the board again, but was beaten from the previous two days exertions. Did some ring training and that was about it. Made a hilarious video whilst doing silly dancing which is what James' GIF comment refers to, here is a frame :
So, its Friday and that means the weekend loometh. I don't really know what to do tomorrow. Saturday morning is my Window of opportunity. She is working in Manchester, so like a few weeks back, I will take her over, and then go somewhere to climb. Given the rain of this week I dont know where that should be. On one hand I thought I could go to the cave but thats quite a long way, especially if I need to be back for 1600 (probably drop her off at 11), but is enough time to get beasted! Or I was going to go back to the tor, depends if its wet. Then there are all these new things at beginners wall, maybe I will go and have a look at them.
Since Mondays flood based debacle, I have climbed to the point of destruction! its been great! Tuesday I went to the board with James in the day and did so much volume I couldn't do chalk and blow at the end. Wednesday I had a late afternoon in the works. Ryan, Dave Barrans, Adam Lincoln and Tyler all knocking around (quite strong that Tyler youth - needs a shave mind) and again, I climbed volume to the point of destruction. Did some up problems before starting to flail on one of these traverses thats been created for the difficulty team - no hard moves, but lots of swinging around in the middle of a roof with minimal feet, anyway, RMan's mate comes in - oh my god! he is massive. Arnold massive - amazing, the last time I saw him climb he was rubbish. He had rubbish footwork but was very strong in a straight line. He pulled straight on to this traverse (as far as I could see) and blazed past my high point, right the way to the end, my eyes were out on stalks! a further battering for my psyche - he must be fit. Apparently he wants to climb font8a by the end of the year. Having seen his previous attempts at going up rather than along I would have said no chance, but in light of this most recent development, maybe its on!
Thursday I went to the board again, but was beaten from the previous two days exertions. Did some ring training and that was about it. Made a hilarious video whilst doing silly dancing which is what James' GIF comment refers to, here is a frame :
So, its Friday and that means the weekend loometh. I don't really know what to do tomorrow. Saturday morning is my Window of opportunity. She is working in Manchester, so like a few weeks back, I will take her over, and then go somewhere to climb. Given the rain of this week I dont know where that should be. On one hand I thought I could go to the cave but thats quite a long way, especially if I need to be back for 1600 (probably drop her off at 11), but is enough time to get beasted! Or I was going to go back to the tor, depends if its wet. Then there are all these new things at beginners wall, maybe I will go and have a look at them.
Tuesday, 26 June 2007
End of the world weather #2
I should be writing to tell you of ring glory, and that I had a brilliant session at the board and did Pinky Perky and all that stuff, but I'm not.
I left Leeds at 1500 with the intention of getting to the board for 1600. Got on the ring road, got turned away from the roundabout where the a6110 crosses the a58, as it was flooded. Fought my way out via gildersome and morley and then crawled back to J36 on the m1. Came off there and sat on the roundabout for 45 minutes (hardly moving) tuned the radio to bbc rsheffield and they were saying it was the end of the world.
The station had been evacuated, the winter gardens had been turned into an emergency refuge (apparently 900 people stayed overnight) and the road ahead (the a61) was knackered.
Northbound on the M1 was moving well, so I went got back on and went up to j37, barnsley. Joined the a628 with the intention of getting to langsett barns and going through strines to get on the snake and into SW sheff (where I live), but the road back towards stocksbridge (at the flouch) was blocked by the rozzers. Ended up continuing all the way to glossop, to switch back over the snake to get home! arrived at 1900. Rubbish.
I feel like going on a rant about the idiots taking over UKB. Its very frustrating. What used to be a forum of climbers and a banter has started to be dragged down by some idiot posters who are just random. And not funny random. For instance :
BenF writes : I find it hard to believe that Jamie found any sequence that didn't consist of simply avoiding all use of foot holds and relied on just campusing through the difficulty. Let's face it, he's done most of his hard climbing wearing a pair of Vans.
Fair enough, thats about right for Jamie Cassidy. So, someone called Richdraws writes :
Bloody hell!! Possible training progression for the training freaks...
Start with pull ups in rollerskates, work up to locking off with a pair of ford escorts, then campussing with vans?
Ok. Thats quite funny. Fair enough, but that should be it. But its not. BenF is back with :
Apparently Jamie is now working on doing Rockatrocity with a pair of forklift trucks strapped to his ankles. When he manages this it will be a major step forward in bouldering difficulty. No one has previously climbed this hard with heavy lifting gear attached to their body. One difficulty of this challenge is managing to hold the swing with nearly five tonnes of vehicle attached and little room in the cave to let the legs swing low.
Fucking hell. and it goes on, although I'm not posting any more tripe. And, r-man has apparently been claiming problems on the cemetary park boulder on his score card.
Monday, 25 June 2007
End of the world weather
Will it ever stop raining? urrgh! at this rate I will be banished back to the school until August. Mind you, thats not so bad if Saturdays lacklustre board performance is anything to go by. Ok, so - Saturday night I wrapped monkfish fillets in parma ham and poached them for six minutes before sealing them in a frying pan. mmmm. And, in other fish news, if Horace Boldock is too far to travel for fishy fulfillment, the restaurant Catch (above the old Thyme - now Artisan restaurant) in Crosspool have a fish counter from which fresh fishies can be procured. Expensive but worth it.
Sunday brought with it a sore head from a mere two cans of guiness and inspite of alka seltzer, it wouldn't shift. The rain had set in for the day, but I only wanted to run and I quite like the rain when running. The honey monster arranged to go to Meadowhall to return something, which gave me more time than I planned, so I sent out a few text messages and arranged to meet Ed at the works. When I have a bad head from drinking, I find that one of two things will shift it - sweating or lard. As lard is most definately off the menu until I am back to a fighting weight, it had to be sweating. Climbing doesnt involve proper sweating and climbing with a hangover is nearly pointless, then a masterplan hit me : I could run to the climbing wall!
Took 30 minutes to run the 4.5km and I felt normal by the time I got there, so it seemed to do the trick. Works was rammed. Good to see JLS and the Barrett, Nige and Helen, Jon and of course the muscles from er, buxton - Ed. Travs and Mike Lea were climbing, Ryan turned up, as did Dribble. Much merriment, not much sendage. I flailed about, failing on almost everything. Theres a new bit of board which replaces the hanging slab in one of the middle rooms. I wish they would get rid of that awful stepped roof. I hate stepped roofes.
The amount of people there reminded me of the importance of friends in climbing sessions. Dont know whether its borne out of the desire to show off or whether its a social thing, but I think it makes a big difference. I was still rubbish but suspect that running and consecutive days climbing contributed to that. Proceeded to do that really irritating thing that people who have had a week off do where they keep harping on about how they would have done such and such a problem last week, but they have had a week off etc. Mike lea pipes up 'I thought you were supposed to be strong' after a particularly pitiful attempt on a problem I probably would have flashed. Mentally reprimand myself for whinging and flail some more. Sometimes I am scared to have a week off, as I hate coming back from it. But rest is the most important part of training, and its probably key to pushing through the next level. Its just galling when you were going well to be stepping back. I suppose the long term gain may compensate for the short term loss.
It will be the show off that hates to be rubbish in front of his peers. The master cares not what others think of his performance. Bear that in mind and you will go far young grasshopper...
Saturday, 23 June 2007
The long road back from obesity
Well, I have had a lovely rest week. The honey monster and I travelled to the italian island of Sardinia on friday the 15th and arrived back yesterday (friday the 22nd) to nottingham east midlands. We had a fiat punto hire car (dont buy one) and an amazing villa in the tres posh Porto Rotundo. I understand Sardines is the haunt of much of the haute couture fashionista types and we did see some of the pepperami at one of the ports one day. Automobile standard hardware is supplied by alfa romeo or porsche, pure yachts of size I cannot begin to justice to in words - multi multi millions!
Anyway, wasnt a climbing trip and as such no exercise took place. No exercise of any description! much drinking and eating and reading and having a nice relaxing time, and as a consequence I am now 11.5st. Before coming away I was 10.5st. This horrified me when I got on the scales at the board today.
Quick diary of the trip then:
Friday - arrive to alghero, collect hire car and barrel across island (its big - 140km from west to east) to villa - delighted. Its beautiful. Unpack and find a bar.
Saturday - nose around Porto Rotundo where we live and head up coast to Porto Cervo for a look around. Eat local - its expensive and not that good. Noone speaks english, or even understands when we point at things on menu!
Sunday - attempt to find local beach - fail but find one far away. Sit on it for a bit and go back to the villa to bask on own terrace - aaaah! peace! cook spag bol.
Monday - Drive to alghero in search of english speaking anyone! or at least people who will tolerate english speakers (wish had bought a phrase book!)
Tuesday - marinella beack all day. Lovely. Cook tea again (not spag bol!)
Wednesday - Drive south to cala luna. HM suggests the coast road which does not as its name suggests, afford one a view of the coast. Journey takes 3hrs and when we get there is shrouded in sea mist. Sack it back (on the motorway - takes 1.5 hrs!). Out for tea at lovely restaurant - la mangianotte. A wonderful meal, reasonably priced but beautiful food and an aging lothario of a waiter. Funny.
Thursday - Much time on terrace before eventually having a mooch around checking out restaurants for tea. Eventually settle on pomodoro (the tomato) which is ok if you have pizza (which she doesn't).
Friday - Bask in sun on terrace, head to airport at 1630. Home by 2330. (feels brilliant to be back in my car!)
So thats it. I have had a lovely time, but I have come back fat and weak. I know that if I put it on so fast I should be able to get rid of it fast too, but I hate being rubbish. Imagine my worst nightmare - going to the tor and being seen failing! head to board where fail to impress anyone and feel massive. Hope I can loose the flab fast!
Anyway, wasnt a climbing trip and as such no exercise took place. No exercise of any description! much drinking and eating and reading and having a nice relaxing time, and as a consequence I am now 11.5st. Before coming away I was 10.5st. This horrified me when I got on the scales at the board today.
Quick diary of the trip then:
Friday - arrive to alghero, collect hire car and barrel across island (its big - 140km from west to east) to villa - delighted. Its beautiful. Unpack and find a bar.
Saturday - nose around Porto Rotundo where we live and head up coast to Porto Cervo for a look around. Eat local - its expensive and not that good. Noone speaks english, or even understands when we point at things on menu!
Sunday - attempt to find local beach - fail but find one far away. Sit on it for a bit and go back to the villa to bask on own terrace - aaaah! peace! cook spag bol.
Monday - Drive to alghero in search of english speaking anyone! or at least people who will tolerate english speakers (wish had bought a phrase book!)
Tuesday - marinella beack all day. Lovely. Cook tea again (not spag bol!)
Wednesday - Drive south to cala luna. HM suggests the coast road which does not as its name suggests, afford one a view of the coast. Journey takes 3hrs and when we get there is shrouded in sea mist. Sack it back (on the motorway - takes 1.5 hrs!). Out for tea at lovely restaurant - la mangianotte. A wonderful meal, reasonably priced but beautiful food and an aging lothario of a waiter. Funny.
Thursday - Much time on terrace before eventually having a mooch around checking out restaurants for tea. Eventually settle on pomodoro (the tomato) which is ok if you have pizza (which she doesn't).
Friday - Bask in sun on terrace, head to airport at 1630. Home by 2330. (feels brilliant to be back in my car!)
So thats it. I have had a lovely time, but I have come back fat and weak. I know that if I put it on so fast I should be able to get rid of it fast too, but I hate being rubbish. Imagine my worst nightmare - going to the tor and being seen failing! head to board where fail to impress anyone and feel massive. Hope I can loose the flab fast!
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