Black Gold

I love Marmite. Always have, always will. So, when someone at work said that there was a new Guiness Marmite I got excited. I looked in supermarkets but never managed to find this most elusive of spreads. Imagine my joy on arriving at work this morning to find a pot of Guiness Marmite on my desk. Someone here had managed to find some and was kind enough to buy me a pot. Mmmm Hmmm.
So, the weekend. Friday night, she and I walked up to Catch (the upstairs fish restaurant in Crosspool) for a scran and after a few drinks returned home stuffed but happy. Saturday morning brought with it rain. She had an event to work at over in Ashton, so I delivered her and then set off back to the Tor. Pretty quiet really, Ru, Dave Parry, Stone and some other familiar faces but crag largely wet. Very disappointing. No chance on Stamina Band - pretty much all the holds were knackered. There was water running freely from some of the powerband pockets. Rubbish. Pinches wall = dry, Ben's roof, clammy but dry.

Do some bimbling on pinches wall and think to myself that this rain and wetness could actually be an opportunity to finally do the bear claw. Its quite hard though and I dont make any headway (convinced that if its only 7c, theres got to be a trick I am missing). Decide to go up to Ben's roof and remember about the direct finish which I have yet to link. Pull on and feel light and spritely, put the egyptian in and crimp the sharp edge - feel fine - which is good, reach out for the sharp left hand edge and walk feet across to the foot hueco, feeling in complete control and consumate style, put right foot up in the roof and turn in, but the bloody foot hold is soaking! just about get into the egyptian and then my foot shoots off the hold and I'm off. Bloody hell. Spend a bit of time working an alternative sequence, as to be honest, it would be quite nice to do without that egyptian in the roof as it is a bit gay. Dont manage to find a better way that isnt dead hard but get the finish wired. Fingers hurty, so sack it back to Manchester in convoy with Rupert and collect the Honey Monster.

We push on to Heaton moor where we're meeting our friends for a Nepalese meal. Have a lovely evening, but eat far too much (so that feel a bit sick), and get drunk. Shambolic the next day, but alka seltzer sorts that out and we head home to do the shopping and chill our boots.

Weighed in heavy last night - 11st 6. I was 11st4 before the weekend. Dammit. On Saturday I managed a 1lb shit. I weighed myself before - 11st4 and then after 11st3, so a few more of them beauties and I will be flashing 8b! Training tonight at the board.