Hitched!

Traditionalists will tell you that the only day a woman can propose to a man is February the 29th in a leap year. 2008 is a leap year. Today is February the 29th. She'd organised a romantic weekend away with activities for me and everything. I did wonder, but I hadn't twigged, and on arrival admidst end of the world weather she presented me with an album documenting our 8 years together, and the last page had the question... Well, I'm psyched out of my mind and consider myself the luckiest pig in the land!

Non fascinating facts

Ages ago I signed up for google analytics. It basically tells me stats about the blog of dob. I forget about it for months on end and very occasionally, in a burst of narcissistic self adulation I have a look. According to google, the blog of dob has 311 unique visitors - i.e separate people, not someone refreshing from the same computer. Most of which are return visits (87%), and most of whom come directly to the page - i.e. they aren't clicking a link from somewhere else. But, of those that do follow a link from elsewhere, 5% come via Ned's blog, and 12% from Paul B. I could go on. And on.

Went to the Foundry at lunchtime today. Skin going from bad to worse, its a good thing I have three days off. She and I are going away - I dont know where we are going, and thats all the more exciting! So, no climbing, lots of nice honey time and back to it (fresh and keen, with a pair of fully skinned hands) on Monday. Zoo York fixation getting bigger. I think i know my next project!

Tom Peckitt - Yorkshire's nicest man

Went to the Foundry on Monday night. Its such a good wall, but for being the works' resident computer geek I would sign up for a year there. The works gets so busy, and theres always too many people to say hello to! Anyway, had a good night, skin terrible, climbed ok. Tuesday rest.

Last night (weds) I was presented with a dilemma. Spoke to Jim who was Peakside with Adam and the worm. Think he said they were going to do Mossatrocity and then go to yarncliffe. Not that bothered about anything at Yarncliffe, would be nice to join the team, but - it goes dark at 1800, so after leaving Leeds at 1500, I would only really have an hour and a half. Contemplate a split outdoors/in session but decide to go to Caley instead. At 15 minutes from work, I really shouldn't be such a stranger to this Yorks gem. The last time I went it was wet, so with Almscliffe in my back pocket as reserve I left work and legged it to Caley. As I was chatting to the honey monster on the phone at the roadside, a harnessed up Fiend yomped past, through the trees presumably on the way to the edge - wonder if he always drives with his harness on? does he sleep with it on too? and a full rack? the mind boggles!

Bimbled up Otley wall, fingernacker crack etc before moving to Zoo York and finding Tom Peckitt - yorkshire's nicest man. Its pretty green but all climbable, and I'm quietly pleased to have recruited a team to hang out with, especially one containing such an accomplished local hero. We pad out ZY and he pulls on. He's shaking like a shitting dog and theres no way he's gonna do it, but he fights it out and has despatched. Blimey! it looks well feasible to see it done so well, even with the shakes. I have a go and get to the first toe lock, go to sidepull bit, the toe isnt in and i'm scared - drop off. Do that move, and fail on the undercut to edge bit thats coming up, but it does feel possible. My skin is terrible. I have holes from Gardoms in four fingers - as soon as I chalk up my finger tips go pink again and are wet to the touch. This is less than ideal. Do some more links on ZY and really think I could do it. Everything needs to be right for success mind - I'd need to be on it, wearing a toe with rubber on the toe and have a full hand of skin. I can tick none of the boxes on this session, so move to something more realistic - ju ju club. Originally in the old book at 7a+ but everyone says its more like 7b+. I would tend to agree. Tom and I work a sequence and he does it - again, shaky shaky, but gets it done. I get to the top two holds maybe 6 times? but I never do the last move (other than in isolation) It feels really really slippy. Its like its moist. Think its a combo of it being super green and my weeping fingertips. They move their pads to secret seventh. I stay on ju ju club (have done SS before). They move to Ben's groove, and its this that I had ideas about when I thought of coming to Caley, but its high, and one small pad on your own is bold. Join in and comfortably romp past the 'hard' bit but have no concept of how to get my left foot atop the rounded boss. I'm set up in the sidepull and pocket every time, and I try a variety of things with my right foot on that ramp thing, but I'm miles off, and I dont know what to do! Give up and have another failed attempt at ju-ju club. They move to Wainwrights wobble as their last problem. I've never tried it and have a few goes, but it reopens one of my tips and I sack it all off with nothing in the bag when it goes dark.

I'm pretty psyched for Zoo York mind. I think with two pads I would be allright on my own. Hmm. Not really in keeping with the Mosely plan. But I suppose I could try it for half an hour on each visit to do other easier stuff. The grit at Caley is so sharp that its murder on the tips. Good crag though.

I looked across at 8a.nu in the week, and saw that Ted Kingsnorth had done low right press. I was amazed - he was nowhere near such things when I last climbed with him. Happened to mention this to someone and apparently he's out of work at the moment, so is climbing a lot. Its a great effort, and must be one of the quickest progressions I can think of. He added Tsunami to his ticklist this week too. Blimey.

8c Stu also chalked his name on Tsunami's well worn bed post this week too. Apparently he had to match the sloper footless! Is this the shortest persons ascent? I cant think of any other midgets who've done it? Hark back to Keith's comment that it would get downgraded due to the number of people whove done it now. I dont think that means it isnt 8a, it just means that its very accessible. I'm pretty sure it is 8a. I'll entertain your argument if you suggest bouncing off the sloper to the pocket is 7c+, but matching the sloper (like a hero) and walking the feet is for sure the full monty.

Weekend pass

I miss the monster when she's away (she's been to London with the girls - they went to the theatre and have had a lovely time). I love our 'normal' weekends when she is about, but once in a while - when she's away or something, i get to sample that most elusive of tickets - the full weekend pass! its a bit like going on a mini trip. I always think I should go somewhere further afield when I have the chance. .

 

Friday night I went for a pint with Ed Brown. Forecast looked dicey. Phoned round and left everything open for the morning... Which started with leaden skies and wet roads in Sheffield. Phoned Busby; he and Roy were going to chance Yorkshire. I felt torn. On one hand, I felt that not going to Yorkshire when I have a full weekend pass is to miss an opportunity, but on the other hand its a long way to go if its going to be wet. Decide to stay local. Arrive at Chez Fletcher at 0940 to collect Dylan, Garry and the biggest pad I have ever seen - the much talked about 'mondo'. We drive to Gardoms south - the walls and roads are wet, the sky looks grey - its not going well, so we continue to Eastwood. Jim's POI isn't consistent with the guide, so we opt for the guide's parking suggestion and get lost in the woods. Finally, we locate the edge - amazing rock - really fine grain compact grit. Almost Northumberland esque. Climb the very lovely corpse crack a couple of times, and then Jon's 'ten inch zombies' which balances up a slab - crimping on chicken heads. The obvious prize is the traverse, the so called 'powerband' of grit. Its long, involving and complex. Garry is so uninspired he takes his boots off and waits for us to finish. Takes ages to work out how to climb the crux middle section by which time we are beaten. Muscle and drive are waning fast and then I find a way to cheat past the crux move using a knee bar and thumb jam combo, I try and I get to the end but my hands are opening on the holds and I can't do it. Rubbish. Feel a bit disappointed. Being honest about Eastwood, I wished I had finished that traverse, because I probably wouldnt bother going back, and now I have to. That said, apparently it stays dry, so one to keep in reserve perhaps?

 

We drive to calver cafe for chip butties. After we've taken on sustenance its back to Gardoms south to finish the day. I've never been and am delighted to have two new crag ticks in a day. As you approach, theres one thing that stands out - suavito. Its on Roy's list, and with Dylan's mega pad there's never been a more hand made opportunity. Garry is straight up there, eyeballing the finishing jug - I think he has been on it in the week or something, and is psyched for the tick, he stares it out, it stares back at him and with a token wave at the hold, he's back on the pads. It's well high! Garry's fine in spite of taking the ride so Dylan steps up. Its looks like a bloc thats straight outta switzerland - a jutting sharp edged prow, with broken edges for your left hand up the middle of the face, definately the line of Gardoms south. Dylan gets to the top but gets psyched out and is off. I have a go, fumbling all the moves and not even getting close. Char turns up and demonstrates - he goes with his left hand at the top, and has to battle some dirty swing out board move - it looks terrifying, and tenuous, and high. Discussion ensues as to whether its right or left hand at the top. I'm getting sweaty palms just thinking about it. Having seen what to do I have another go and am soon ensconced on the top holds staring at the top - it looks a long way away. I dont even try the move, preferring to drop off onto the pads. More goes continue from everyone other than Char, until I for some reason start leaning in from the block on the right hand side, I get to the top, and rather than throwing for the top, I shuffle up a bit closer, until rather than a slap its a pat - thankfully, the top is super grippy and flat, I match, get a pocket and mantle to glory. Phew. But theres a niggle, why did I start on the damn block? I decide I should do it again, from the lowest obvious holds - just to be sure. It takes another few goes, but I manage to get it done and am psyched - what a great problem!

 

Whilst we're under Suavito, Dylan chirps that he thinks Brad Pitt is 7b+. Char and I are stunned. When I did it Adam and I agreed hard 7c. I recorded it as such on 8a.nu but subsequently upgraded it after thinking about other problems I've done, speaking to Sam, and seeing that its in the guide at 7c+. I will entertain an argument of between 7c and 7c+, but proposing 7b+ is madness! Suavito is supposed to be 7b+ and I did it in about an hour - Brad Pit on the other hand took me about three or four years! I think its one of those problems that feels ok when you actually climb it, but I think the effort required in doing so is worth +. (7c + that is!). The more I think about it, the more I convince myself that its 7c+.

 

Jon turns up, and he and I scoot off to try some project thing that he is looking at. This project is mega too! (think everything could be today, am in a good mood) as soon as we get there he dispatches it on the first go with me present - either the morton psyche was the required ingredient, or he had actually done it before but wanted a witness! I try, and think I could do it, but hadn't counted on the top move being quite so devious - its classic fulwood madness and I'm not even close. Good climbing though. A sharp leaning arete by a tree - barn doory upside down pinch fest climbing with crucial thumb action required to push yourself back from the barn door. His goosiness busts out the a sitter and proclaims it 7c. Nice. We walk out in the dark.

 

Get a curry for tea, and I feel like I've earned it. Arrange to meet James in the tav, but feel exhaustipated and contemplate crying off. Once get there, I feel full of beans and talk at a thousand miles an hour so that noone else manages to say anything. Sunday looks similar in weather terms, and after popping to Joe and Vic's house to collect my guide book I head to Burbage south edge. Try pebble mill traverse and cant do it, eventually finding a way, but my skin is so bad its not going to happen and with rain on the horizon, cut my losses and leg it to 7ball, which just amazing to look at. The rain starts and I get up to the top as it gets quite heavy. What a gorgeous problem - really climbs well. Walk out and its pretty much passed by the time I get back to the car, but I need to do some shopping and sort the house out and so on.

 

Tidy up, cook, pop to the works to drop something off and move my fingerboard before the honey monster comes home. I've enjoyed my weekend pass, but its lovely to see her and have things get back to normal.

Help the young

Adam got a nice pic:

What would clifford do?

its been a funny couple of days over here in Mortonland. I last posted after a very early morning on the way down to London. Got into town for 8am and can heartily not recommend being dog tired and dazed amidst the peak rush hour commuter chaos. Made it to old broad st, started doing what I had to do which I anticipated finishing about 1300 in order to get to a climbing wall for a few hours. Everything went badly wrong from the off and continued to do so through the morning. It got to 1530 before I could get off to my hotel to drop off my bags and do some testing. I felt fully jaded. Found the hotel and it was grim. Not happy. Checked in and went up to my room. Nothing actually wrong with it, just dilapadated and impersonal. So, I do a bit of testing, have a cuppa and head straight back out. On the tube on the way back round to Liverpool street I feel shocking. cant wait to get to bed, get back on site early and do what I have to do, eventually finishing around half 8. I'm walloped and go straight back to the hotel to sleep.

the next morning after I do about an hour of work in the hotel room, its apparent I wont have to do too much more and can head home. Dash off to St pancras and make the 1025 train north - psyched! this means I'll be home at 1245 and out on the grit by 1330. Awesome. Where shall I go? half form a plan to go to the plantation to do help the young and then look at this brass monkeys, then head to burbage. thats settled then, thats what I'll do. Suddenly for some reason I am reminded of vicky Barrett's text about rubicon being mint and I start to weigh up going back there.... the thing is, I've really enjoyed the grit of late, plus, because of Roy's list - which contains lots of easier problems, I feel like I am actually doing things, I'm ticking my way through loads of cool stuff and its boosting my confidence and straightening out my neuroses. So, initially, I'm a bit reticent to go and fail on tsunami again, but as the journey north continues I talk myself into it and thats where I plan to go.

 

Deliberately I dont tell anyone my intentions - In case I fail, I can just not mention I went in the first place. Get off the train and I run through the station to the taxi rank (would have got a bus, but a: I'm not paying, and b: i am psyched). By the time I get home I've noticed that the normal pre rubicon nerves/excitement arent present, theres excitement, but I dont feel as nervous. I think about what Ned said - just relax and see what goes down as I drive out. Theres loads of cars there - must be walkers I hope inwardly. My heart sinks when I walk in and theres about 5 guys on the kudos wall. Shit shit and shit again! I take my stuff over. the floor is fully slithery but its only mud, theres not actually that much water about. I can see now that the guys on the kudos wall are trying that jump start thing - phew! at least I wont be queuing to get on my problem. I get chatting, and they seem sound. Young, but nice enough. One of them is trying the press with wack foot beta, I point out the foot hold but he dismisses my advice, continuing on his way. I go off and warm up. When I get back he still hasnt done it, and I reiterate the knowledge - the first time he tries it, he does it! You can lead a horse to water etc etc.

I start on Tsunami. The holds all feel pretty reasonable, but I really do have this problem pretty wired. Pull on and nail the sloper - feels mint, cant fault the conditions anyway. Walk feet across rightwards, but they feel really insecure and ultimately, my right foot plops off into the mud. I clean everything again, start the stopwatch and put a little chalk dab on the right bits of the footholds. More goes happen and I get to the last move a couple of times, but it feels miles off. The lads loose interest and wander off to try rubicon. I feel around the left hand pinchy undercut thing, and wonder if the little finger catch has shattered a bit more - I think it feels a bit different. Work out there is somewhere for the little finger that changes the move from being a full on slap to being a controlled slap. This doesnt sound much when I write it out, but on the link from the sitter it might be all thats required. Theres another sequence change I've found that I havent mentioned - This session, I've started moving my center of gravity right for the move left into the pinchy undercut thing. It means that instead of having to snatch the undercut, I can take it in complete control - and, crucially, settle that all important little finger on the notch.

The 'I'm going to do this' pre-ascent nerves set in and I wonder if I've had too much coffee. Sit myself down and give my boots a squeak, pull in to the wall and set my hands up in the slot. Because the very back of the pocket is dank, I'm really not using my right hand, just sort of starting with it resting on the lip, as I pull up to the sloper with my right the thought 'What would clifford do' flashes into my head, I smile inwardly and think that he would have done it ages ago and refocus on the job in hand. The subtle changes in position, the nuances of individual holds all come back, I'm in the zone and I know I can do it, with my right hand crimping seven shades out of the sloper, I step right to the spike, stretch underneath with my left foot, then right again onto the good foothold, out of the corner of my eye I can see one of the lads has come back, but is considerately waiting silently a little way down the path, I come in for the match and my thumb locks on to the pinchy thumb catch under the sloper, I move my right hand out of the way and lock up to the press hold in good control. I take it just right, and because I've moved to it slower, I weedle my fingers just perfectly into the hold and move my feet until my right foot is on the square cut hold on the rail. Really bone that right handhold now to pull my weight over my right foot and theres a sweet spot at which it becomes easy to reach back left into the pinchy undercut thing, I'm moving slower and am able to adjust so that my little finger is on the notch. Pull into the position pasting my left foot down on an unhelpful smear, and again, theres a point at which the outward force becomes undercutting force, comes onto your biceps and feels more probable. Stare at the finish jug and bang - I've nailed it! yes yes yes! let out a gurgled cry and it doesnt feel as hard as it should have felt considering how long I have spent trying to do it, but its a slow burning sinking in of happiness that I mute out until that evening. Amazing. I think I have been trying it off three fingers in that undercut until now, and my own advice about wack beta has been borne out in practice!

As soon as I've dropped off and exchanged pleasantries with the lads I've put my stuff away and legged it to the car. Stanage awaits!

Yomp up to Help the young and it feels dead hard. Am being an idiot, and two mins later its done. Turns out that this lovely problem was retro claimed by paul mitchell after char did it. Try the stand and have no idea what to do, plus, theres a fair wind blowing and its fully freezing. I sack it to find brass monkeys which would appear to be more sheltered. What a great problem this looks! Dylan has sent me some beta, but it involves left hand sidepull, then right all the way to the crimp - hellfire - thats desperate! I try it, but end up flying backwards down the gully and with visions of breaking my legs I back off and walk back to the car.

Sunday School closure

The boss lady has just moved into the office behind my desk, so my usual blogging spot is again under siege. This morning I'm on the train, so it doesn't matter. After saturday's siege of the plantation my skin was (and still is) bad, so I was happy not to climb on sunday, but it was another perfect day and I had to get my carcass outside as much as possible. We did some cleaning housey type jobs, I got called by work, and then we headed out to the hills for a walk. We were going to go down to monsal head, so i could see whether rubicon was as dry as I have heard (talking to that scottish Lynne girl yesterday, the tor is wet) but as I had been called, I kind of needed to stay within mobile phone signal incase they called again (they didnt, but had i gone down wcj dale I bet they would have done), so we parked the car at the yorkshire bridge and walked up win hill instead. It was a gorgeous day. However, chavs seem to favour win hill, as there were loads of henri lloyd garments and football shirts making a pilgrimage to the summit. They obviously cant read maps either, as they get to the top, turn around and walk back down the way they came up. Wierd. We did a big loop and came back in along the shores of the resevoir. Stopped in the pub for some food - pleasantly suprised. Both cheap and nice, and it came quickly! Finished the day watching Shaun of the dead which I'd taped over xmas. A brilliant weekend. Lovely.

Yesterday I called the Foundry to see if Neil was back and whether I could start my two month free pass. Neil was back but there is some confusion over one of the other level's prizes and I couldnt get in for free just yet. Well, once I get my free pass I will be using it as much as I can, so I certainly dont want to be paying in and getting sick of it on my own money, so I tried to go to the board. On sight at least there was no change, the sign is still on the door and our key was there, but when you try to use it to unlock the door it will not turn. Its like the council have deadlocked the door shut or something. I need to mail this out to the other school users, but I wouldnt be at all suprised to discover that this is the last time I will get to do basic jez. And, I never did turd reich! Will I ever feel the pinch? Rubbish. Hopefully, we will get a reprieve, but I wouldnt bank on it. So I pushed on to the works for a couple of hours. Always leave the works feeling that I havent done much/enough/anything, and certainly that i didnt climb well, but its so steep and so long and so different to outdoor climbing that I dont have the prerequisite wall strength to succeed. Busby turns up and we laugh like hyenas.

Plans for the weekend are brewing, but theres a big question over the weather. Apparently, it will all change by thursday. So, I had harboured desires of yorkshire, thinking about either earl or crookrise, but not if its raining.