Redpoint anxiety

Ed 'Boom Boom' Robinson and I were minded to discuss the question of psyche, and of going backwards on problems you're working on:

I find myself contemplating the value in going out climbing at all at this peak time of summer. Basically - its too hot for pulling on small holds. Zippy once told me that through July and August he sacks off actual climbing and goes indoors to train for when its worthwhile. I know this makes sense, but I love to be out. A battle between heart and head. My head says, 'stay in - train, get strong - bide your time', but my heart says 'go out - hang out, do easier problems, have fun'. A trainer or a climber?

I suppose the problem is that by nature when you go out you will get sucked into trying something that you want to do that's hard. If you keep trying something when conditions are bad you wont make progress - or will you? Ed wrote :

"Whilst I have really been enjoying my time at the Tor, it certainly isnt a
workout, its a session where I typically warm up then have a few quality
goes at something then sack it off. Good for improvements on the particular
problem perhpas (but even then there is the threat of pleatau) but I do
think my overall basic strength, intensity is dropping."

This is the problem with repeatedly trying something in bad nic when you aren't getting any closer to success. But is it, or is it that these problems are at our limit and we need to go away and train to be able to do them - there's only limited gains to be had from training on the actual problem? I don't think the best training for doing a problem is necessarily trying it.

Writing this I realise that even going indoors, its all too easy to get sucked into climbing rather than training. Climbing is much more fun than training, and when you are there with someone and they are climbing, its likely I will end up doing so.

Climbing hard problems makes demands on emotional and mental states. If you batter your psyche by repeatedly failing on problems (perhaps as result of attempting them in bad conditions) then mentally you convince yourself you will fail. I often wonder how I would get on if I could separate my 'redpoint anxiety' from physical movement - i.e. climb turning my brain onto motor mode only. Climbing is also a social activity, and to hide away indoors boning down might make you stronger, it might also further dent that already beleaguered soul.