Rebel Alliance

One of the best things about Sheffield is that its not that big. From where we live you can both walk to the Peak district or to town. In what other city can you boast such a thing? Friday night we walked down ecclesall road and all the way to the Sheffield Tap, which is a pub at the station. Far from the usual fayre of station pubs, this one is good. Thornbridge brewery, lots of choice, original victorian tiling. Recommended. Collected our mate and got a cab home. Walking dead - straight to sleep.

Saturday was a beautiful day. Ed had sacked off Caley in favour of Burbage as it was going to be boiling. Our mate got back on the train and went to watch the Manchester derby, whilst she and i had a look at the Volkswagen dealership up at Norton. Cars are expensive (for her not me). Went to car people showroom and looked at a Mini Cooper S works. I think she should buy one, but its ridiculous really and not a wise choice. They had a Clio sport trophy too. Suprisingly nice looking car, but being a renault would probably set on fire and/or explode after a year.

It was a big birthday for another non climbing friend that evening, so we were expecting to be playing host to others through the day. The one who has started climbing called - 10 minutes away from the station, and talking about going to the climbing works. Much as I love the place, there was no way I could be accomplice to such behaviour on a day like this, so I collected him and off we toddled to Burbage to catch up with Ed, who, by now was crawling back down the path Joe Simpson stylee, having fallen off parthian shot. At least, I think thats what he said. It might have been a 3b nearby and he wasnt crawling.

There was a fair breeze, and the south edge was probably as good a choice as we could have made. Showed lee 7-ball, then we moved up to the alliance. Which looks scary and high. Some randoms are attempting a rippled wall just below, and having not seen it before we join them. Its in the sun and tearing chunks out of me. However, i will not be defeated and manage to find a Sharma esque sequence which involves jumping past the slopers. With that in the bag I take my leave and go to look at the alliance. Decide the best strategy is to pad the gully and stand lee on the boulder to push me into the pit. Pull on. Rumble to the top not having worked out where the holds are, its allright this I think, but havent looked at the top and have no plan, scuttle down a move or two and step off. This time I go round the top and have a feel of the holds and a look at the position. All the holds are pretty good, and whilst you really shouldnt contemplate falling from there, I cant imagine letting go of those jugs unless something goes badly wrong. I have decided to commit. 100% effort, climb fast, fluid - no time to think. It goes well, feels easy, boule the top of the boulder and reach back to the edges to haul myself over. Theres only been a second of 'whoa' in the whole ascent. Mantle to glory, take my shoes off, pack up and walk back to the car. Suspect this may be the end of days for the grit season.

In the evening we went to town for a meal. It was a bit log to be honest - popolo in leopold square. Home at about 0130. Bed by 0400. knackered yesterday. Went to Sharrowvale market to consume pattys of dead animal. Did help, but only for a while. Bumped into lots of people which was nice. Then we saw this lobster clawed fiend hobbling through the throng - it was Ed, up from his sick bed and walking unencumbered. Very interesting - thought i had stumbled across a subterfuge, a secret training excuse or something, but I think it just wasnt as bad as first reported. Foley went to Malham and got pumped. We agree that routes of more than 5 bolts long require you to be thin and serious.