Brachiation Lex

I thought yesterdays football match was quite exciting. So much so that when i got into the car, i actually tuned the radio to five live so as to be able to keep up with it. Plus, it was quarter past four anyway, so I'd seen the first half and the second was underway. By the time we arrived I'd know what had happened. Its not so much the football itself, more the collective zeitgeist of the nation, to not take part feels like missing out, and I hate to miss out.

The roads werent quiet. Or rather, the cars that were on them seemed to be concentrating elsewhere and not paying attention to their driving. And, there were loads of cars at Rubicon. Just one person at the rocks though, and noone at the Cornice. Drier than last week, but still some slime on Brachiation dance.

I had a look at the Disillusioned Glue Machine which is filthy. So filthy in fact that it was unclimbable. I contemplated cleaning it with my lapis, but this would have A : taken all night, and B : been epic with just a lapis. Could one of the full timers go and sort it out please? You would need a stiff brush and patience.

Having run away from that one I go to the other end of the world and stick the draws in Yorkshire 8B. Meanwhile Lex is lapping to the top of Brachiation Dance, Dylog is clipping up Free Monster and Sam has started on Rumble in the Jungle. Rumble looks amazing - fully incredible wild moves right up there in the roof. Dylog looks to be having a whitey with the Freemonster, and I have to agree - it does seem hotter than last week. Ed does Brachiation dance. The cycle goes round.

I have the fear about yorkshire 8b. The moves are pretty steady, and really its well bolted - but you clip on the lip then do the crux (which is hard), so the clip is above you then, then reaching out of the crux you're now on its level, then you must place your foot on at the same level and rock over - to a hold which is good. So from there theres an easily droppable move to finish the hard climbing, so you would complete this section with your feel on the lip next to the bolt - so the fall and everything would be fine - whats the problem? honestly - its frustrating. I carry on to the top and realise just how easy it all is up there. Cant believe it - need to get this head sorted.

Anyway, back to Dylog and the Free Monster. As is often the way, he just looked smoother, more composed and to be climbing better. Plus, Sam had imparted a better sequence on the end bit, so he was quicker - not that it made any difference or that he needed to be - he got there, did the deed and finished it off. A great effort.

Then to Lex. 3 or 4 redpoints to the final jug on brachiation dance, falling from the slap around the lip to finish, and the debate had been whether to force a stop half way through on his last go, so as to do a new link from mid to top. We talked about this, and it did make a lot of sense, but what about the if i get there I'll just fight to the death psyche? last go psyche? that must have been what he tapped into last night as this go put the rest of us to shame. In the gathering darkness he set off up the slab, huffing and puffing - he didnt blow the house down, but he did get to the breaks, make the clip and get a bit back. But enough? who knows... As he swam upwards there was silence from below - come on lex, dont blow it - you can do this we thought collectively. But he looks tired - however he's got great tenacity, and with no small application of gumption is soon at the top break, clips in, ready to do the deed, come on Lex! He shakes out, exchanges a few choice words with us, the throng below and the shouting starts, he revels in it, fluffs the tricky move, we think he's off, but scrabbling he tries again and gets it this time - surely he cant hold on anymore? he does! with a rebel yell slaps wildly over the lip, we roar, but privately hope he has enough in the tank to match and thank goodness he does! in total control he matches, swings out, lets out a yell and then drops off. Brilliant. What a great effort. Man of the match award to him.