Zeke the Waif

Last year for my 31st birthday I got a chimenea as a present, and last night was the first lighting of said device this year. A symbolic event by anyones standards.

 

Current weight varies between 11st1lb and 10st13lb depending when I weigh myself. Am in two minds about whether it matters, or whether its possible to feel the difference a few lbs make. Certainly, its a cheap way to feel strong - loosing weight, but at the expense of your immune system and of having energy. I think if you crash diet to loose weight you arent accustomed to your energy levels and feel rubbish, whereas if you gradually loose a bit over time you probably adjust. Anyway, i dont want to loose much, but I think between 10.5st and 10.75 would see me being bionic.

 

Going to put a rope on Zeke tomorrow. Saturday morning club is being brought forward to combat the tropical weather - leaving Sheff at 0830. Ed is keen to look at the Sissy, which I am quite interested in also, but I should probably open my account on Zeke and stick to the Mosely plan. Shall also investigate quite how dirty that new thing of dan variable's is. Could really do with a full day out soon. I would like to spend some time questing down Cheedale - not after any big numbers, but I think it might do me good to go onsighting.

Tor hot for crimping

Firstly, car updates : the car is booked in with Sheffield Engine Services, who specialise in this sort of thing. They will start on it on Saturday morning, and will strip the cylinder head to report exactly where the sieze is. They will also remove the sump and confirm the crankshaft is ok. Based on what they say (probably Monday), I will decide what to do thereafter. I did some shopping around for engines yesterday, found one with 24k on, warrantied for 6 months, complete (inc turbo!) but no alternator or starter (not a problem, these I have!) for £1321 inc VAT and delivery. Now I dont think thats too bad! in fact, it sounds pretty cheap. I compared the engine part numbers and they are identical, but they wont warranty the mileage. So am still sending it to sheffield engine servs to see what they find is up with it.

 

Secondly, it is hot. If it were this hot in july you wouldn't contemplate going to the tor, but in mid May madness, everyone did anyway. By 1900 it was cooling off and becoming viable. Sellers and Pennells were getting fit for Morocco on Sardine - Andy Cave joining them later on (nic had his school T shirt on). Smitton and Vicky doing Tin of, Scouse Dave, Dave Parry, Cofe and later Kim and others scuttling round in the shade at the right hand side, and even Jez Portman with a.n.other chap in shades on SHIBB. Dr Rich and acolytes on Chimes/Weedkiller. Finally, Ed Robinson and I joining in the scuttling. The only two to display sense were Sam and Lucinda, who parked in the bushes and after the sun had gone down and the temperature more amenable. Oh yes, Nacho and Dale. Nacho had the right idea, he arrived in shorts, flip flops and shades and made a sofa out of pads to marvel at the stupidity of the english sloughing sheets of skin off warm soft hands.

 

Although not my first trip back to the tor this year (for that was Saturday), it was the first one where I didn't put a rope on, instead getting involved with some of the bouldering classics. Managed a very scary repeat of weedkiller trav (its still a bit wet), cruised to the end on Powerband, (but it doesn't feel any easier this year either), and then did that out of my boots link up again. My intentions driving out; to reaquaint myself with Staminaband, especially now I have this Dave Mason alternative foot sequence for the rattle and hump start - kind of hoped Stamina humps might be a quick tick, but the crimps on R&H would have been in the full sun and death ming. Dr Pinch had kindly agreed to put a harness if I so desired, but it was just too hot for pulling on small holds. Got all excited about Wild in Me (which I have done years ago, but remember it as being fully genius) but decided against sharp crimping in the sun. Instead, I had a look at that new thing which James and Ste Mac did last summer (?) where you back hand the PUTP ear and trav left. Its completely feasible, but a bit terrifying. Absolutely nailed my skin and ended up leaving at 1930 feeling quite strong but unable to touch anything. Plan now is to rest up until Saturday morning club - which, if its this hot, will be early to start, early to finish.

 

Mentioned to the monster about changing existing climbing tickets back to Tuesday Thursday, and she is receptive to Thursday at least. Its all about the gym you see. Monday there is something she likes to go to (a class), then Tuesday I am not sure, Wednesday there usually is, and Thursday there is something she likes too. So I think next week I will climb Monday, Wednesday in the day, and then Thursday evening out.

Temporary replacement car

After taking the car to bits yesterday, it would appear that AA man was prophetic in his guesstimate of what was wrong with my A3. Its turbo seal failed, it sucked all the engine oil into the exhaust system and as a result of my continued attempts to start it with no oil - has siezed. Apparently, the sieze may have occurred in the cam rocker, and in which case cost to free it up shouldn't be too bad. New cam shaft, rockers etc, but you are at least not talking engine swap. Mechanic man is ringing audi and sheffield engine specialists this morning to find out more, and continue to strip as appropriate. Certainly new turbo required, so running cost absolute minimum is going to be £300. Now I think about it, it must have been failing for ages. Even before this intermittent boost problem started, it used to whistle at low revs. Must have been on its way out or something. Very very frustrating. No point stressing about it though, aint nothing thats gonna fix...

 

So, after Saturday which you know all about, Sunday was my sisters wedding. We were watching closely all that happened here (with our own nuptuals on the drawing board and all), and it was very posh, but probably very expensive. 150 ish guests in ripley castle, north yorks. Very traditional everything - full sit down meal, etc etc. We both agree that ours will be a more casual easy going type of day. Well, thats what we hope. Anyway, all went off allright, and then on the Sunday, a ray of light in the shape of my sister bounded over to the breakfast table - she had a plan... She works for the same company as me, has a company car, and was going on honeymoon for two weeks.... Ding Ding! I am now driving her 06 plate A3 until she gets back! (its only the 1.9 though).

 

Last night I got an invite to dan and ned's board. Started climbing and thought I wasnt going well, and that I might be better using my time at the Foundry, but they persuaded me to continue and I got into it. I dont know how I am climbing at the moment. Still coughing up a lung and snotty, plus, I havent done much over the last three weeks, what with being in canada and having lurgy and all. But in the end I think I felt allright, but lacking a bit of cutting edge burl. Its such a good board that one though, and hard. Thats what makes it somewhere good to aspire to train at - the level of the board is much higher. Yes, you can do hard problems at the Foundry board, but the scope for so doing is greater at their board. Good to hang out with these two strong youths, and I got the video of Dan doing his rubicon project off them. I might have a look at this on Saturday this week.

 

Tor tonight. Ed Robinson going to join me. Sure others will be there too. Actually thinking I might speak to the honey monster about going back to Tuesday and Thursday. Am missing climbing with other regulars such as Jon boy.

Tor1:Car0

First visit (of the year) to raven tor today - thanks to Masonic Dave for driving. Thankfully, he is keen to do routes, so I fully plan to abuse his keenness and get some serious ticking done this summer. Was a good morning. We arrived just after 10, and in time to catch up with Superted, who has sadly bust a finger (pulley injury) and informs me that he has got a job, so the aforementioned Ted acheivement graph (which I havent plotted) will perhaps drop off from now on... Once a beast, always a beast?

Other regulars in situ for the summer include Stone (who I dont think ever goes away), Paul Reeve, Kristian and that chap whose name I think might be Simon - anyway, he's always there too. Had ideas about getting Dave on Sardine, but to be honest, its a full sandbag route to point someone who has never led outside before at. I mean, its hard for 7b+ and its super polished - plus, I havent actually done it before and memory of sequence is sketchy (and the top is both run out and loose). Figured that Super high intensity body building would suit him better, as its only 2 bolts long and bouldery crux at the start. Plus, I had't actually done it before. So, I nip up and put the clips in, and lower down for masonic Dave. Dr Pinch (ed robinson) turns up and we chatter on whilst Dave gets tied in. One thing I should mention is that I forgot the spare harness (dave doesnt have one of his own), so we had to borrow one from SuperTed, and its one of those really shit ones you can hire at the foundry! Dave is not comfortable! Anyway, he skittles through the boulder problem start and makes it to the jug ledge by the first clip, clips it and announces he's pumped (I was too!), the next move is a reach to a pinchy thumb sprag thing off a great foot hold, and he does that but rather than stepping up into the massive sidepull flake he is questing off right wards on non holds! anyway, he pumps out and sags onto the rope. Has a rest, sorts out what he should have done and dispatches first red point. First ever route ticked!

Rae and Tom arrive, and Rae tells me theres actually a belay through the grass on top! I have to strip the route anyway, so do it again and this time find myself mantelling loose sods of earth and facing a ground fall. Great. Its easy and all but I think if you lost it there you would be very close to the ground when you stopped. Clipped the belay, stripped the route. Robin Barker arrives and says hello before doing laps on powerband. Considering he had fully snapped a tendon recently, he's not doing too badly.

We move to Rattle and hump, and to start with I cant do the boulder problem. I am thinking how I have lost it since last year as this used to be really easy, but I am full of cold, and I have had nearly three weeks off climbing, so am not that suprised. Dave shows me a better way for the feet and I do the problem, but sharing the jug feels hard. Wierd. Work out the gaston move and climb from the jug to the top. Remembering how good the climbing is up there. Dave has a go and gets stopped by the gaston move. He hangs on the rope and works it out and then has a bit of a bimble at the rest of it, working out a way etc. I have another go, climb past the gaston move, make the next clip, but for some reason my feet are wrong and I drop it going up to the next right hand gaston. Lower off and Dave tries. He is on and off quickly as can feel a tip splitting. I examine my own hands which are getting chewed up by the dogs mouth teeth like holds. I tie on, climb past the gaston and clip, get my feet right and finish the route. Suprised and happy, we leave the crag.

Anyway, apologies for the last paragraph. i am sat in the car awaiting an AA man, and between the paragraph above and the one before it he called to say he would be 10 minutes, so I have to hurry up.

Update - just got towed back to the garage and home. AA man suspects the following based on my description of events : the turbo seal failed and sucked all the engine oil into the exhaust (hence the clouds of white smoke), then because I tried to turn it over again to see if it had worked the engine might have siezed. Shit. That means a new engine. Possibly. Thats worst case. Anyone know how much a short engine for a 53 plate 2.0 TDi A3 is?

Immobile but light

10st13.8 last night before bed and 10st13.6 this morning. Don't know why but its good. However, on the way to work my beloved car exploded! Bugger. Its had a turbo fault for some time (an overload valve kicks in and suddenly you've no boost), but you key the car and it resets and is all fine. Only this morning it did it accompanied by a cloud of white smoke, and then a repeat when you restart. So, got off the road, on the bus on the way home now.

SuperTed (and spotty man?)

I dont know if its the stimulant decongestant tablets, but I feel vindictive. Or at least, my standard position of wanting everyone to do well and being generally psyched has morphed into feeling grumpy. Its probably frustration that I'm not going climbing tonight. Have arranged to go out with Cheekbones Mason on Saturday morning, and perhaps I am worrying that if I rest until then I will be rubbish and therefore disappointed. Ah well, better to rest now than to lengthening this chuffing disease because I didnt give it time to go away. Problem is that I havent been climbing much lately and so desperately want to. So thats making me grumpy. Apologies in advance.

Anyway, back to the point of this post. Last night I spoke to Rob Napier (keen for Zeke too) and he tells me that Ted Kingsnorth looks like he will do Mecca in the next few days. Bloody hell. He is turning into a full beast! his performance against time curve was flat until this year when it has suddenly taken off - this year he has done two 8a blocs and is about to do an 8b+. Amazing. Good effort Ted. Am more than the least bit jealous. (I havent actually plotted a graph of Ted's performance over time, so this might be wrong, but thats how it appears).

School t-shirts are out. Perhaps I should go and pick mine up tonight instead of trying to climb when I shouldnt.

Finally, on a humorous note; Tony Musselbrook has a blog : its very entertaining reading - more blogs should aim to make statements such as these, here are my five favorites (so far)

i think that session [was] like the second coming of jesus will be if jesus was surrounded by hot babes and ninjas busting facemeltingly awesome guitar solos 24/7

that man has the endurance of a seal. (is this good or bad I wonder?)

i hope one day to become a mountain hermit, soloing really hard things regularly just because i cant be bothered to walk round, chasing down sheep and killing and eating them with my bare hands, and that sort of thing..yes, that would be bitchin'

still couldnt do jerry's traverse. still couldnt do the ace. and thats all i really learned today.

you dressed like a loser, you climb like a loser.

Ill - again.

I feel frustrated. On the plane on the way back there were loads of people coughing and spluttering. Planes recirculate the air around the cabin, so your chances of catching other peoples lurgy is high. Anyway, I have and I feel rubbish, hence I haven't blogged happy joyous blogs. Its so frustrating. On top of two, nearly three weeks away with only three climbing sessions I am now wasting evening tickets (or will be tonight) when I should be catching up. However, I am back at 11st1lb which means actually lighter than before canada (11st3).

 

The pics from the trip are on my FlickR stream. Been meaning to link some of them here, but I usually post via email and you cant include HTML in emails to blogger, which means I have to post via the webpage, and its barred from work (which is where I am). But perhaps will get to it today. 

 

I tried to climb last night, but it was hopeless. I went to the Foundry, where I have signed up for another month. This will take me into the start of june, and by then hopefully I should be both fit and climbing outside more, so wont need it afterwards. Bumped into Dan Varian, who is loosing weight!!!! from where? anyway, its for his rubicon project which i have no doubt will be tres hard.