Thursday 8 May 2008

Tor hot for crimping

Firstly, car updates : the car is booked in with Sheffield Engine Services, who specialise in this sort of thing. They will start on it on Saturday morning, and will strip the cylinder head to report exactly where the sieze is. They will also remove the sump and confirm the crankshaft is ok. Based on what they say (probably Monday), I will decide what to do thereafter. I did some shopping around for engines yesterday, found one with 24k on, warrantied for 6 months, complete (inc turbo!) but no alternator or starter (not a problem, these I have!) for £1321 inc VAT and delivery. Now I dont think thats too bad! in fact, it sounds pretty cheap. I compared the engine part numbers and they are identical, but they wont warranty the mileage. So am still sending it to sheffield engine servs to see what they find is up with it.
 
Secondly, it is hot. If it were this hot in july you wouldn't contemplate going to the tor, but in mid May madness, everyone did anyway. By 1900 it was cooling off and becoming viable. Sellers and Pennells were getting fit for Morocco on Sardine - Andy Cave joining them later on (nic had his school T shirt on). Smitton and Vicky doing Tin of, Scouse Dave, Dave Parry, Cofe and later Kim and others scuttling round in the shade at the right hand side, and even Jez Portman with a.n.other chap in shades on SHIBB. Dr Rich and acolytes on Chimes/Weedkiller. Finally, Ed Robinson and I joining in the scuttling. The only two to display sense were Sam and Lucinda, who parked in the bushes and after the sun had gone down and the temperature more amenable. Oh yes, Nacho and Dale. Nacho had the right idea, he arrived in shorts, flip flops and shades and made a sofa out of pads to marvel at the stupidity of the english sloughing sheets of skin off warm soft hands.
 
Although not my first trip back to the tor this year (for that was Saturday), it was the first one where I didn't put a rope on, instead getting involved with some of the bouldering classics. Managed a very scary repeat of weedkiller trav (its still a bit wet), cruised to the end on Powerband, (but it doesn't feel any easier this year either), and then did that out of my boots link up again. My intentions driving out; to reaquaint myself with Staminaband, especially now I have this Dave Mason alternative foot sequence for the rattle and hump start - kind of hoped Stamina humps might be a quick tick, but the crimps on R&H would have been in the full sun and death ming. Dr Pinch had kindly agreed to put a harness if I so desired, but it was just too hot for pulling on small holds. Got all excited about Wild in Me (which I have done years ago, but remember it as being fully genius) but decided against sharp crimping in the sun. Instead, I had a look at that new thing which James and Ste Mac did last summer (?) where you back hand the PUTP ear and trav left. Its completely feasible, but a bit terrifying. Absolutely nailed my skin and ended up leaving at 1930 feeling quite strong but unable to touch anything. Plan now is to rest up until Saturday morning club - which, if its this hot, will be early to start, early to finish.
 
Mentioned to the monster about changing existing climbing tickets back to Tuesday Thursday, and she is receptive to Thursday at least. Its all about the gym you see. Monday there is something she likes to go to (a class), then Tuesday I am not sure, Wednesday there usually is, and Thursday there is something she likes too. So I think next week I will climb Monday, Wednesday in the day, and then Thursday evening out.

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