Hot Fun Closing

Its amazing how the psyche energy flows to and from a climber. There are two spheres of psyche, the immeadiate energy and feeling that follows success or failure on the problem or route you just did or didnt do, and the general psyche that follows the trend of your overall recent performance. Whats amazing is how a single good attempt on something can completely turn around both sorts of psyche from negative to positive - you can go from feeling slightly despondent about climbing, from thinking you are climbing like a sack of shite to believing you can do it in the space of just one attempt.

 

Two weeks ago, I went on the Kudos wall, to whom I am no stranger, and I couldn't even do the press. I felt dreadful. I questioned everything - whats happened to me, why cant I pull on those holds? Then I went again last night and bosh - down went the press. Down it went again just to be sure. Phew. This I guess is the problem with reference problems - if you cant do em, you think the world is coming to an end (back to the blog neuroses too). I still don't think I am strong at the moment, but last night I felt the ghost of my old self sniffing around. The purpose of the afternoon wasnt to repeat problems I'd already done, it was to get on Hot Fun Closing.

 

Jon has now installed a first bolt. He's done a great job of this and the route as a whole - I totally agree with his placements, and although I never tried it before, I think I would have been scared doing that top bit above a rusty peg, so thanks Jon for effectively opening a new possibility to me. Its true, the boulder problem bit to the left hand flake is the hardest bit of climbing, but it doesnt give it away after that - by no means have you done it if you get there. Took me a while to work out what to do with my feet, and perhaps I could still refine it, but three times I climbed from the ground to the break (which is massive). From there a right hand pocket and foot way out left leads to a 'Wild in me' small crimp, right foot on a nubbin and right hand to a better diagonal hold just above. I had another foot whitey at this point, but I think I was avoiding the obvious because it meant committing to a hold I hadnt seen. I ended up stepping left foot just below the break and right toe on a good hold on the same level as the bolt, but off to the right, left hand to sloping dish and rock onto right foot, gentle move to jug, top, mantle, belay - done. Nice.

 

So, three times from the ground to the break. Two times doing it all including the long move to the edge, but sadly the rain was blowing in by then, and whilst it wasnt actually sopping wet, conditions were far from ideal, everything felt a bit spoogy and there was plenty of moisture in the air. I have been trying to do a bit more longer pumpier routes this summer, as I know its something I'm not good at, and I think its good to work your weaknesses and get out of your comfort zone, but constantly not doing anything has the same effect of biting off more than you can chew - it erodes your psyche. Which is where T_B's comment about dropping my grade and getting something done holds true - thats what I should be doing really. Getting on a boulder problem with a belay made me feel good about myself and about climbing - I actually thought I was going to do it! this is the sort of climbing that I am best at. So, learn from my experience - get out of your comfort zone - it is good for you, but dip back in from time to time to reinforce what you already know and give yourself a boost. Or suspend your ego and drop your grade until you can do them, and work your way up.

 

I was blessed with Fletcher and Brown as compadres for the mission to Rubicon. Dylan was on Caviar and put in some good links but rain stopped play for him too. I showed him the Morton/Birch foot sequence on the start and he (like me) crushed the move the first time he tried it. I'm not suggesting you should start listening to my rubbish beta (didnt work for Jasper for instance), and really this isnt my beta, its birch's (which is why it works) but occasionally I have a titbit that maybe of use. Mr Brown is always good company. He attacked the Kudos wall until the tenderising affect of those sharp little holds ruined him and he lay on his pad under a tree offering wisdom. Jasper turned up and in adverse conditions pushed on working low right bigger splash - I have never tried this and it looks quite interesting. One to save until September I think.