Ted's main course

I send around 500 text messages a month, the vast majority of which go to other climbers to find out where people are going and who is about. The blog has become a useful tool to hook up with partners, and of course, its free. I added Superted (he of the dangerous bros flash) to my phonebook thanks to Jon this Saturday. We'd planned to go to Rubicon, for him to do Caviar and me to do Dangerous Bros, but before I had even set off he texted to say it was flooded. Arranged to meet at Cbk which was apparently dry. And it was - more or less. Obviously had been wet, and I wouldnt say it was in good nic, but it was more or less dry. Did a couple of the easier problems, had a play on the pinch, and on the hulk but nothing went down. Sacked it to Cheedale.

Walked down the valley chattering on about amongst other things, Kristian's route the Spider. Ross Cowie said it had up to 10 ascents this year already. Great moves and position, and some kind of crazy bicycle clamp for the feet to cross the roof. Sounds great. Say hi to Debbie Corbett, Katherine S and boyf of the former (presumed...) at the embankment, which looks to have a bit of run off on the top, but is drying out fast. Katherine says the river is high and that she bottled crossing to Two Tier, but that Ben P and Nic are there. Ted teeters across the stepping stones - it looks about E6. I start on the stones, but forsee disaster and move back a metre where it is deeper but at least stable - Is very cold. See Neil Mawson and lady friend on Quality Control. Ted and I do subterfuge before moving on the main event - Entree.

As I've been on it before, I go first to share with Ted the knowledge. Take the undercut, step underneath and left foot off, but the move to the gaston is still far too fast and my attempt ends. I fanny around for a bit but ultimately find a foot sequence that enables me to do the move statically - not even a slap, a nonchalant lock! brilliant! Knowing it to be now possible, and that Ted is cooling down I do the next few moves, clean the holds and lower off. My psyche goes from doubt to cant wait to get back on. Ted gets involved, works out a sequence after the gaston and it swaps back to me. We are psyched! we both know we could both do it today. I get into the undercut, stand up but I cant get my back foot on and am off - bugger. I have also split a tip. Swap back to Ted who executes and climbs past the crux into the easy slap for the jug by the second bolt, but he struggles and falls! I don't believe it, he absolutely crushed the start which is without doubt the hard bit. He has a moment and works out a more efficient way and comes down. I have a final feel of the holds but its pointless - I'm bleeding and it hurts.

Ted shows me Minos and we chat to Mawson for a bit, then he ties on for what will be the last go of the day. I realise Ted is standing into the undercut much higher before placing his back foot. Next time. He completes the crux sequence almost casually, and its not until he's reaching the second bolt does he struggle to climb out of the hard section, but he does and I cheer for him as he clips bolt three and pushes on to the top. The heavens open and Ted gets a wet head as he strips the belay. I feel psyched. I now know what to do, and but for my splits am pretty confident I could have done. Chase back into Sheffield to the chippy and then the Tav to meet Foley for one. One becomes two and I end up in the Nottingham with other friends. Drunk and ranting.

So, this week - what to do on Wednesday? Supposed to be hot this week, so Rubicon will be disgusting until later on. Cornice? dont know that its dry. Cheedale? Hmm. I'm pretty keen. Also, this weekend the monster is away. I bought the new Northumberland book and would quite like to go have a look at Queens Crag? Originally I was thinking about Wales again, but the M56 is so bad thats putting me off a bit.