Back beyond the rubicon

I couldn't wait to get back on the Sissy. Arrived at the crag to find Andy Hutchinson and Sam over by the Kudos wall, and the lake greatly receded. Still sticky on the approach, but better than last weds - no signs of seepage on the crag itself which makes under foot muck palatable. Dan Cheatham and Ed Brown turn up soon after and everyone sets about their intentions. I am here to do the Sissy as is Sam, Ed is on Dangerous Brothers, Andy on Tribes and Dan sets about Too Old to be Bold.

 

Sam and I talk sequences. With a slightly far away look in his eye he says he hopes to get it today, and I wonder if he's trying to convince himself or me. He goes and has a bimble, not a rp but a refresher. It doesnt look like its a dead cert, but the ground is covered and the engrams reinforced. I get tied on (with the 4th clipped) and engage cruise control - I feel really nonchalant, breezing past the match (which feels easy, the holds just feel bigger today) and to the broken penultimate hold, I've juice in the tank but the fifth drawer isnt in, I'm worried about giving it all to nail the last hold but being too pumped to place a drawer and then clip it. I gayly slap but dont really try to hold the hold and thats the best go gone. Rubbish.

 

Meanwhile, Andy has equipped Tribes and is redpointing, he has a really good go but falls right at the top. Ed is on DB but struggling with the crimp. Dan is still warming up. My goes on my route get worse from there. I feel tired just starting out, but I always get back to the penultimate hold, just feel further away from being able to do the move. The thing with this route is its one you have to go for it on, you can't afford to hope to get there and be able to style it, you have to be prepared to stick on one to do that last move. I want to do the move easily, but I need to change that and just go for it. Which is why when I do this it will be a more significant acheivement for me than DB. DB i thought was ok, its up my street - short and hard - I'm in control throughout. The Sissy is personally more of a challenge because I am going to have to go for it at the end.

 

Andy crushes Tribes in excellent style - its been about three goes or something - impressive stuff. Sam steps up for a go on the Sissy. He gets to the match (i'm on belay), his elbows come out at right angles but he holds it down, moving rightwards he takes the penultimate hold, sets himself up, his back arcs out and he has the appearance of a man about to fall off, but bam! he nails the last hold - he's still attached, not coming off for anything now, rumbles up through the trivial top bit to complete his first 8a! a well good effort. I do have another go but am boxed and haven't recovered. Get past the match but am all over the place and fall again.

 

Ed doesnt do DB, Dan doesnt do TOTBB. Dan really should have done and Ed has made progress, but they want to go to the churnet and sack it home.