My good friend the very Reverend Father Doyle wrote to me yesterday suggesting that I loved rubicon more than he loved the Mighty Orme, which brought me round to thinking that perhaps rubicon is the orme of the peak. Reviled by most but adored by those that do like it and boasting a wide variety of some of the hardest climbing an area has to offer. There's history, old school ticks, and the areas first 8a. LPT has the countrys first, and Rubicon has the Peaks. Cofe may have written that it should be turned into a laser quest, but I think even he has a soft spot for the place. I do love it, its short, favours the crimp and is only half an hour from home.
Rock Warrior Jon 'M Bison' Fullwood wrote about Rubicon on his excellent but oft neglected blog, eulogising a damp summer but some good ticks and memories. Much has transpired on those white walls and their shattered crimps this year; I finished Tsunami, Variable did his Bigger Belly thing, Andy established barracuda, Jon - Beluga, rebolting, wads flashing 8a's and even the evil Sir egg nearly did a route. Its funny how a crag can grow and wane in popularity, Rubicon should always be popular - bouldering is fashionable, its short - so boulderers can get on well there, its close to the road and theres hard things to do.
Yesterday I finished the Dangerous brothers, and Ed Brown did tribes. Although we were supposed to be going out in the afternoon, the weather in the morning was so nice I couldnt contain myself, and so we changed, which, with hindsight was a mistake. By 10am the sun was on the wall and when it was out it was bloody hot. I really had to struggle where on Saturday, even in superhumidity it felt more feasible. Temps were bon mind - 10/12 degrees in the car, but I reckon more like 18/19 in the sun. Strangely for Ed and I, we both redpointed and were left having to think of new goals to focus ourselves. Certainly, its not like me to get the deed done with time to spare! Went on Beluga, but had post climatic stress disorder and struggled on caviar start. I think in this case it was because I know I need to be fully on it to get anywhere with that one, so post something else was never going to happen. Ed had a great flash attempt on DB, getting to the crimp but then exploding back from that position with a squeal, exclaiming that the move was impossible.
Adam Lincoln and Aaron Deakin arrive and apologise for bringing the rain with them, far from needing to apologise, conditions get loads better, but I have to go and do some work.
So, thats that. I hope to climb tonight with Keith and Dylan at the board, then rest up ready for the weekend. I imagine there might be chance of saturday morning club?
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