You would hope that given the amount of time it is since i have last posted that I would have something to tell you. Not really though, its been christmas. So, she and I broke up for the jollies on Friday the 18th. Saturday the 19th I played host to Britain's best bum doctor, Dr Pinch and their respective spouses. We planned to climb rocks, eat curry, burn things and drink whisky. All were staying at chez Morlog. Edlog never made the rocks section, as his enthusiastic driving style heralded the end of the mondeo and left him marooned in Buxton, Folog and I spent so long procrastinating that the beautiful sunny day turned into snowing heavily. We never even stopped at stanage (shrouded in mist), continuing on to Curbar instead. Everyone else in the world was at Curbar so whilst I did get to pull on rock for the first time in months, it wasnt quite the experience I would have hoped for. It feels like its condensing, but perhaps its just the traffic on the holds. Bob Smith and Harry turn up, we join them on Ben's Wall/Great White. It fully starts snowing. We sack it to the Foundry to meet Edlog who has coerced his wife into driving him into sheffield. The rest of the evening is as it said on the preamble - we eat stuff, we burn things, we drink too much booze. The next day I am ill. A slow start follows. All leave and trek slowly through the snow to their respective destinations. I lie prostrate on the sofa with a hangover. Well done, and welcome to the festive season.
Climbed again on monday, although only at the board. Did some more new problems, and completed bits of others I needed to finish. Spent an age getting there (due to the inability of other road users to drive in snow), only to discover I had left climbing bag at home. Bought some Sportiva Solutions. These are amazing - Nalle wears them. You know usually when you have a brand new pair of shoes that are tight enough to count? how they are excrutiating? well thats the thing - these arent. They fit perfectly. There are no dead spots, no gaps, no rubbing stitches or murderous buckled toes - think they could be a really good thing. Although the price isnt good! if it means I can suddenly use my heel effectively perhaps its an investment.
Wednesday was the final pre xmas board session. I felt like I climbed really well. Did more new things, invented hideous new project (of course all that good work has now been counteracted). We go to the pub with our neighbours and for some reason really get on it and end up ruined.
Thursday - XMas eve. Hungover again. The day finishes in the Nottingham with friends. We leave early to go home and read the night before xmas (I love that book/poem).
Friday - XMas day! go to my sisters in Horsforth. Its nice Horsforth. We go for long walk, eat too much, drink some and gorge on cheese. A nice day. Saturday, we get up and go to the outlaws. Sunday we come home sweet home. Monday the 28th (boxing boxing day), I meet Folog and Charlie Gibson to go out - yes, actually out! To the plantation, which is nice. We start by doing elimanates on the green traverse, then move up to the Joker. For a long time I am being a pussy and getting the fear, and it looks like its not going to get done. James proves his legendary hip flexibility, and Charlie does a great job stopping me flying headfirst down the gully. Just as we are about to give up, I go round the top and realise someone has been going for the wrong bit and thats why I cant do it. I balance worryingly on my arse on the edge and manage to put a tiny chalk dot where it needs to be. The hold is a bit wet, but useable. I go back down and within a couple of goes its done. We move to the storm. It feels a bit wet - condesing again maybe? the top hold goes black. We try for a bit but noone does it and we go up to Silk. At which point I phone Jamie Lilleman to ask how to do it, as we cant remember. Folog shows us his 8b sequence, and to his credit, nearly does it, but then I remember what to do and we all shuttle our way up. I have a few goes on the sitter which feels feasible. I thought this was 7c, but Folog seems sure its 7c+. Anyway, it goes dark and we walk down.
I havent climbed since. We went to the Lakes for new years eve, staying in Coniston which was nice. Tonight is the first day back at work, and at climbing. I will be at the Climbing works tonight at about 1600, and I will be wearing my weight chest. I also got a weight vest for xmas, but I might not need to wear that tonight.
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