I was log last night. Or rather, I was log on the board. Harry and I were discussing training with weight added, and Jamie Cassidy had suggested that you should warm up, then put your weight on and do big moves on jugs. So, this translates in a climbing works sense to doing all the problems on the comp wall (ok, most of them), then putting weight on and doing them all again. The problem is, this more than takes the edge off, so that when it comes to trying hard on the board then you are pooped.
The conclusion of this discussion is that we are going to change the order thus : Warm up - 30 mins, climb hard on the board - 1 hr, jugs and weight on - 30 mins, warm down/easy circuit = 30mins. I shall test the theory on Wednesday (if I can get to the wall).
Just briefly, I foolishly set off to work this morning. Got to Grenoside before it started being really bad. Thinking it might get better I pushed on, but it got much worse. The motorway was downright dangerous, people drifting out of lanes as they couldnt see the edges of their lanes, average speed 30. Took the approach that I would go in, wait for it to go quiet and then get back home, which is where I write from now. Still snowing in Sheffield.
Hope Tim Stubbs is allright in Cambridge. First day at work for him today.
2 comments:
a training session should always go from a specific training (campus, fingerboard, system, etc) to a general training (climbing).
so the weight vest should come before the normal climbing in my opinion. i think it takes the edge off because you are doing alot of problems with it on, a sort of power endurance training, and that's clearly very tiring. maybe choosing few hard, short problems to try with the vest on could be a power recruitment just right to make you super strong on the following climbing.
i think.
I always use weight belts/sandbags with a harness on the fingerboard and occasionly campus board but always avoid it whilst climbing.
It feels more likely to lead to injury and tweaks hitting small holds at odd angles with that extra weight that your body is not used to dealing with? I guess making gains is often going to lead to a state of near injury.
As Lore says, warmup; specific training with weight, then general climbing/45 board problem laps(attempts), warmdown.
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