Monday 15 March 2010

west side skin

Its like a filthy addiction - climbing outside. You cant help yourself, if its not actually wet it physically pains me to go in, even if thats the only way I could concievably climb - because, for instance - of skin issues. The problem I suppose is exacerbated because we have all been cooped up for so long. This must be the february weather window - arrived late, but here nonetheless. When I last wrote it was thursday day and I was moaning about having no skin. I did go to the wall, did a bunch of circuits of all things (the holds are bigger and dont hurt ruined skin), then, after three hours, buoyed by the confidence of Feehally I shot out to Burbage West to go on West side story. Warming up at the wall is a good strategy. Anyway, I was getting to the last side pull every time, but being unable to move my feet to set up for the jump. Lost some more skin, home after dark.

Friday it rained and we were tired. Saturday it was her dad's birthday and the cars needed attention. Hers had an MOT, and mine went for a service. I have decided to keep the chavstra for now. I cant afford to replace it to be honest. And, outwardly, its not a bad looking car, and it drives ok - its just offensive inside! Still, beggars cant be choosers and so on.

Sunday was another nice day thankfully, as this was my window of opportunity. Again, the session started at a suprisingly busy climbing wall, then after an hour, and well and truly warmed up, off I went - this time to meet James and Jim at West side story, for a masterclass from the one and only alsation leg bum doctor. With his beta I am now able to get to the jump on every go, but feel miles away from doing the jump itself. I tried to experiment with moving my left foot up, but got nowhere. Home at half five.

Dan Walker has done Unjustified! I think this is a fairly significant grade jump for him - is a well good effort. As far as i know I thought he had only climbed 8a+ until now, but that is perhaps not the case. 8a+ - 8c! waddage! 8c waddage anyway!

So, this week - i have to conserve skin on a massive scale - as its CWIF at the weekend, and I am going to win. However, I also have overridding aspirations of doing west side story, and concievably - the cave doesnt ruin ones skin, so will have to investigate the possibility of a mid week raid...

3 comments:

Fiend said...

You need to watch this "climbing outdoors" malarkey Doblog, you'll get WEAK and we don't want that.

Remember the Cave is good training for the Board...

Jasper said...

8a+ to 8c? Pah. I heard that Malc....... etc etc

Adam Long said...

Text me next time you go out. I've got more beta than you can use.