Thursday 11 March 2010

Zoo Log

My skin is worse than I thought. I went out on Monday too and its just too thin to contemplate trying to hold gritstone holds - or any holds for that matter. Last night I went up to Caley to try Zoo York. From being in with a chance I went back to zero last night, not managing even to repeat the 'steady' top bit. I was climbing with tape on, and I think its nearly impossible with your skin in that state. Disappointing, but not the end of the world. I need to rest, recuperate and get back on it next week. Rubbish skin is very frustrating because its not you thats not failed (although it is clearly), or thats how it feels anyway. Oh well.

However, revelation - i always thought that after dark that moisture in the air would condense and it would be log. And I think this does happen some/a lot of the time. But last night after dark it went good. Got back to the tape box edge thing (undercut to edge on arete), but thats a really boney move, and I just couldnt bear the pain. Went on Ben's Groove as the holds are bigger and not so tip dependant - and, theres a vid of Westie doing it on crackbook. It looks well good from sitter. The problem with the stand is not that its hard, its that its scary and commiting. Not one to try on your own. Watched a video of some youth on it on my phone and set about it. Said youth gets to the crack seam thing at the top, pastes his right foot on the rib and turns it so as to oppose the seam and just stand up - nice and casual. Couldnt get that to work, although suspect I just needed to go for it.

Anyway, so got back down to the car and set off home at 1919 - made it back in an hour. Right on Dave and I were going to do Full Power today, and its a lovely day, and i would have loved to have gone out, but with this skin theres no point. Hmm.

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