Monday 8 March 2010

Zorev

I reckon loads of people out there will be nursing sore fingers after yesterday. For once things were in my favour - the Honey monster had a friend over and so I had that rare and beautiful combination of things - good skin, a full day pass and great weather. Some texts went out, some texts came back. I went to Burbage south to meet Dave Parry and Dutch. We did some fun 6c thing to the left of 7ball, then 7ball (dave has an amazing sequence. I always climbed it like it was 8ball - i.e. clamping the arete, but theres no need. very good), then back to the quarries to do Violence (its appearance belies its quality), and then on to Zorev. Thought I was going to flash it, then needed a thousand and one goes. Dave went the other way. He couldnt move, then when he did, he did it! a better way than my always getting there, never sealing the deal I think. Andy, Emma, Scouse and Toby turn up. They go up the edge, Dave and I go to Leotard Legend.

On the subject of which - Captain Invincible must surely be the most improbable, desperate looking thing at Burbage? Sean Myles really was an unsung hero. Anyway, Leotard Legend. This is a banks problem which climbs some pointy the wrong way edges to a ledge. 7c+. Desperate to pull on, then got up there, but was a bit scared and a bit uncomprehending. Quick go on Trellis - hard, high and scary. Bottled out. Jogged back to the car and zipped round to Stanage to meet Foley. Time now - 1430. Knew I was gonna be hot on the way up, but no warning for the leg buckling hike with two pads which followed. Arrived to foley in a skins compression top looking like the missing third fairbrass brother from Right said fred, and did some Green Traverse variations to get back on it.

Rich, James and a whole team of heroes descend on the Pit. On every go I get to the top, on no goes do i hold the jug. I have no problem getting up there, its that final udge that I struggle with to get the jug. I have at least learnt how to do  it left hand first. It is definately easier that way, but its more of a trick move. Bob Smith shows us the way, and I admit defeat and walk back down (time now 1630). Roast chicken, wine, District 9 to finish the day - this is a good film by the way. 75%.

Hadnt actually told you any of last weeks tales either, so briefly (as it wasnt a great week of greatness), Monday she and I nearly went out. Set off for Stanage but it started raining when we got as far as Ringinglow road. Turned back and went to the wall. Helen for tea (we didnt eat her, she came round). Wednesday - went to the cave, but only for 2hrs. Nearly completely pointless. Friday - quick lunchtime hour at Caley Roadside. Did Zoo York from stand which was a first. Couldnt get back through the start though. Hoping to go on Wednesday afternoon. So thats that. Mint again today. Think Foley is coming over, hope to get out this afternoon - late.

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