Sunday 28 January 2007

Disappointing but good...

Woke up this morning to glorious sunshine. Amazing view from the flat, had about 20 coffees and headed out. Can't emphasise how sunny it was! Coming from the uk - where it has been raining for ever! Time about 1130. Drove to restaurant which sells the guide books and bought the Chironico guide. Decided to head up there to look at le pilieur and serre moi forte. Some snow about but not too deep. Went to soucoupe roof and warmed up. Did what I have called la coupe (its now called vitruvian man) in two goes and then had a look at la soucoupe. In an improvement on previous years I managed to pull on and move but never hit the next hold. James tried vitruvian and came close but wasn't properly warmed up so we left it. Decided to walk on to rest of blocs.



After questing through fairly lightweight snow we arrived at le doights verts and set up camp under le pilieur. Phoned tc who explained how to do it so I set to working the moves. After a few fumbling goes it was clearly on! Fantastic! Next go got to the top! You make a tricky rock to a good edge, step left foot on and the I was trying to lock and reach back left to a slope before adjusting feet again and popping hand for the top. So, I'm at the top eyeballing this sloper and I move for it but its not quite right and i'm off! Next go is the same! Arrgh! Try the top bit on its own and its fine. Remember tc said to jump and try that. It works! Damn! Should have done that in the first place! Rest up and try from the bottom. A small split has started to appear in right index finger, have another go and bail on the rock up to the top edge, shit! Finger really starting to split now. Arse! Won't admit to myself that its not gonna happen today and have another go, so tape up and attempt to carry on. It doesn't work and I have to admit defeat. Had I not been so close I wouldn't have been so psyched and would have stopped earlier! How irritating!



Quest on with james and reach an amazing looking slab with an undercut ripple across the middle. Like a giant Boston mess on steroids. James does a problem to the left and I take some pictures. We see some guys in a roof behind and it looks fab. James' imagination is captured and he gets involved. The problem is called the birds and is 7c. To the left is raindogs which looks fully desperate! Get chatting to some ginger haired German dude who is wearing school shoes. James makes progress but its nearly dark so we sack it back to the car and go home for tea.



Loads easier when there's less snow about! A good day but frustrating. Currently watching momento on ipod.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Hi Ben and James!

This Blod stuff is the bees-frickin-knees.... Makes for a very enjoyable read here in damp (and now quite warm) Schmuxton. Reading about Chironico brings back the memories. The Snow, the walk in, the VERY desperate La Soucoup and the rough rock (bummer to hear about the split - get james to Lube you up with the Climb On!/Vaseline/KY/Whatever it takes.)

Must be useful having the new guide, incidently, what does that Left hand variant get nowadays..?

Well, sounds like you are blessed with the good weather and the psyche is very high so pace yourselves lads, make every attempt count and keep the blog going. We are with you all in spirit!

As an aside, saw Blood Diamond at the Odean today. Very cool (and shocking). Worth a watch.

Cheers
ed