Thursday 18 January 2007

Flash in the pan

Bored. Sat in Bracknell in a hotel with nothing better to do. Just read Jonboys blog and kinda thought, well, I did try and keep one on 8a.nu, but that always troubled me as it seemed too public. I dont plan to tell anyone about this one, but then again, I dont plan to hide it either.

Its a funny thing blogging. Not really sure that I feel a need to share my thoughts with the world, and have no tangible excuse like Jon for starting one (he is going away). Perhaps it will be like a diary, but I expect really I will complete it a few times and then sack it off. Not sure I like it - blogging. Feel a bit exposed. Thinking at the moment I will use it as a personal diary.

Wondering whether to get another pint. Wish I was at home. Usually, when it gets to this point in the evening, she announces she is going to bed and happilly I turn the lights off and join her. In a hotel away from home (when would a hotel ever be at home?) and theres nothing better to do, which is surely an excellent catalyst for the blog beginings.

Bracknell. Its in the south of England. Somewhere off to the left of london. I got here tuesday - which would have been the 16th Jan. Hardly ideal to be honest, as I go to Cresciano for a weeks climbing in another week. My point being, I dont want a week in a hotel getting fat before a week when I want to climb well. So with that in mind I have been trying to maintain psyche and have driven across this money saturated countryside to a place called Guildford to visit a indoor wall called Craggy island. Its a good wall. There are shit loads of people who go to it and they are dead keen. Theres no climbing scene as such, the people who use the wall are replacing the gym with the wall - which is fine, and they have none of the pretentions of 'normal' climbers. They're keen to get involved and try hard. Fuck me, its hot that wall though. Far to hot to be honest. Had a nice chat with owner manager dude this eve (at least, thats who I think he was) and said as much to him. He'd never had anyone complain it was too hot and was fully geared up in a sweatshirt etc. It was so hot that my feet were really hurting in my shoes. Had to switch down to my velcros as the v10s were crippling.

The Croxinator has set some nice problems, and his comp pedigree is evident. For someone I thought of as strong but technically dense, he sets good problems that climb well and require thought and skill. Did his problems on the board (which has too many big holds) and set a couple of my own. Held back on the names - felt like John Redhead in a politically correct non-understanding non climbing southern world. Wanted to call my white problem White Might, but with Jade Goodey and BB Racism row in the background I settled for White trash - which does seem more appropriate. Did another crimpy problem which I wanted to call 'Soft southern bastard'. About 7a+ to the last move, then a 'practice of the wild' throw backwards to a sloping franklin hold. Shit, do I sound like Si O? (by the way, I did get that other pint. Its nearly finished now) anyway, I called it something shit like 'School boy out of water'. Perhaps I feel homesick. THe white one was named as it was all on white holds. So, an insight into the climbing scene down south? not really, loads and loads of people, not very great climbers, definately some victims of being good at their wall and the best in their scene but without exposure to anyone else completely convinced of their own brilliance, but mainly a lot of really nice people dead keen to get some climbing done, not privy to the scene gossip and backstabbing of sheffield - its amazing how much you take the scene for granted, and its amazing how much a part of it I am. Well, the scene is my friends. Right. Finished beer. Off to bed.

So anyway, yesterday I did all bar two of the problems on the main bouldering bit. Today I finished one of the two but the other was about 8b and I ached. Yesterday I planned a two hour sesh and was there for 3.5. Today I was a bit rubbish to be honest. Lets say 7.5 for yesterday and 6 today. Ok. Finish beer - off to bed. Have enjoyed typing this, but still dont think I will keep it up.

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