Wednesday 24 September 2008

Percy's black stump

Couldn't find a belayer to get the Sissy done so ended up on a solo mission. Been wanting an opportunity to get back on Staminaband anyway, so perhaps this was it. It wasnt. Undercuts fully sopping, but the massive patch of seepage above has dried out. Hot in the sun, not as much wind as I hoped but quite cool when behind a cloud. Chatting to Ross and Rae I moved camp to Ben's roof and engaged cruise control, only cruise control wasnt enough - had to try to pass the egyptian - sure this used to feel easy? its hurting my finger so I swaddle it in tape and try again, this time climbing out of the cave but forgetting how to do the top bit. On my next go I just cant summon the energy to try properly and decide to sack it to somewhere secret...

At the secret crag everyone knows about I am delighted to find its pretty much bone dry. All the useful bits are ok anyway. I try the hulk, but it feels evil brick hard - I am unable to generate any movement at all. I go on Sean's instead and keep nearly doing it but foot keeps popping off the top and I again pack my stuff and head off. This time to stump hole cavern.

I really fancy being out in the open, some nice rolling moors to gaze out at and to witness the yellowing leaves as it gets autumnal (love the changing seasons, am so looking forward to grit bouldering season now). If this is your desire, do not take yourself to stump hole cavern. A streak of white chalk on nearly black rock at the back of a dark nook besides the road was not what I had in mind, but the single problem thats there is quite good. I do the stand fast, and very nearly the sitter, but my fingers start to hurt and the grit is taking a chunk out of my pad so I stop and drive home for tea. Its 1830 - dark at 1900 these days.

The new crag excitement is muted by the crapness/esoterica of stump hole cavern, but I still am pleased to have tried something new. My plan for winter is to climb outside as much as possible and to do lots of new problems in lots of new places.

2 comments:

Fiend said...

But are you going to do the true (and afaik un-repeated?) Stump Hole Cavern finish??

I always thought the problem looked rather good, if not the location. It was on my ticklist, pre-injury.

Jasper said...

Nice one. That's the Crag X news I was hoping for.