I love Parisellas cave. The more you do there the more you like it. The problems require strength that applies nowhere else (or so it seems), so is it really any use? what point is there climbing somewhere so specific that it doesnt benefit you anywhere else? well thats the point, its not training - its climbing. Its an end in itself, the moves and problems merit the effort expended to try and do them. And I love it! It depends what you are into climbing for I suppose. If you go climbing for adventure, dont go to parisella's cave. If you go climbing to be a in a nice place then maybe swing past, but your approach suggests you wouldnt be able to get the best out of it, so probably dont bother. What I mean here is that I think the Orme is a nice place to hang out, but the cave could be described as grotty. I have such rose tinted spectacles on I dont get that any more, I absolutely love it. If you go climbing for physicality, to push harder than you thought you could then welcome! the cave is your master!
Dylog, Dave Mason and I set out for Doyle's at tea time on Friday. The thinking wasnt to climb late Friday, rather to rest up and arrive in the cave fresh on saturday. The honey monster has had a cold all week, and I could feel myself starting with it on the way over. Mustering all the positive energy in my psyche I tried my best to focus on not getting it (which I'm not sure works, but what else could I do?). The weather was absolutely amazing. Wall to wall sunshine. Following advice from that Denizen of the cave Mr Doyle, we didnt even leave the house until 1200 on saturday am. The Cave gets the sun in the morning and it would be boiling. To be honest, conditions were ok through the day, but the true professionals choice would have been to arrive at about 1700. It was noticeably cooler then. Anyway, I expected it would be busy but it wasnt.
Various hopefuls and heros arrived and tried through the afternoon, but most notably Kook and Macho Nacho, conquistador of the cave. I havent seen Kook climbing for ages, but the last time I did he was far stronger than he was capable, and in response to a reported ambition of his to climb font 8a, I said it would never happen. What I meant was that font 8a's are hard and require more than just strength, and based on what I saw I didnt think his efforts were concentrated in the right area. Well, whether he knew anyway and focussed on other areas, or whether he continued doing what he was doing he was on fire in the cave yesterday! Impressive doesnt come close. Whilst I struggled with moves on 7c+'s, this guy put in valiant links on 8b's. Not only that, but is a very helpful nice chap who offered several titbits to help me on the problem I was on. Blimey, when he did Louie to get into the thing that crosses the roof leftwards he just yarded through it like he had his feet on the floor. A.M.A.Z.I.N.G.
Macho Nacho and dale both arrive, both wearing sunglasses as if they had been dropped off by Puff Daddy on his yacht. With no cristal in sight macho Nacho tears the cave to pieces over the next few hours. I mean, I knew he was good but in the cave he's on another level. Reminded me of when I saw the Katz there. Snappy power. Strongman the Higg arrives and is filming Nacho for what noone knows, but he has some expensive looking camera gear.
Dave and Dylog wanted to do Trigger Cut. They both casually do the first move. I am dismayed (I think its desperate). Dave doesnt seem weighed by gravity and levitates to the shot hole but fails there. On his next go he doesnt, listening to doylo's directions he levitates past it to the final jugs. The cave breathes a sigh of relief. He made it look really easy. This is another good thing in the cave. I think theres quite a good general feeling of wanting others to do well. When Dave did TC everyone was watching and willing him to do it. Everyone genuinely wanted him to succeed. Dave then tried halfway and got back to the shothole - we all thought he was just going to do it again! Amazing, but not to be.
Doylo makes Broken Heart look really bloody easy as well (I am fighting the urge to channel surf), and starts to attempt Mule's finish to Clever Beaver. He falls from the last move but again, I am inspired by my friends successes. Not enough to do anything myself though, but theres a good vibe and its easy to keep trying.
Dylog looks like he is going to do Broken heart as well, but struggles to make his left heel work. At about 1800 we leave and head back to Doyles to pick up Dave and head home. I am knackered and cold ridden. Although we could have stayed and climbed today, I think I would have been rubbish, and this cold is not helping. Hooray to doyle for hosting us, to dylog for driving and to Dave for psyche. I'll string any amusing footage together and post it up.
1 comment:
the orme appreciates your kind words
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