Dry humping

There are many strange conditions of the atmosphere affecting rock climbs. The Gritstone enjoys a more on off relationship with the elements (at least in terms of a climbers interactions), it is either wet or dry, hot or cold. Proponents of dead fish based rock will note other phenomena in their handbooks two of which are Sticky Damp and Over dryness. Much has been written about Sticky damp, and I still dont fully understand it, therefore, todays message is about over dryness.

I have to be honest, only recently heard of this phenomenon recently, and I have to admit, I scorned the person telling me about it. Its not often our rocks get themselves in a state where they meet the over dry criteria perhaps being a key reason why I've not (or dont think I have) encountered it before. Basically, if theres really no moisture around it seems dusty and friction is negatively affected. Brushing helps, but the rock feels 'cakey' and friction dependant holds feel unusable.

I have had man flu so I havent had much to say, and to be honest, not much has happened. Wednesday I ventured out the house to see if the fresh air would clear the cobwebs. It didnt, but I am old and ugly enough to know that you dont always get to be the best, and it was nice to hang out. Its been tres hot all week, so heading to anywhere directly in the sun would have been folly. I know of a place with no name which faces east and should be nice and cool. On arrival I find the Sellars mobile parked up and Britain's best Bum doctor unpacking his car. He deserves some serious kudos I am told, and all for passing GCSE english. I think thats what it was anyway. We bimble down to the crag, talking shit as much as ever. Warming up my finger pangs. When will it get better? still feels really hurty when bent. No pain other times though, so is getting better, just not fast enough.

Nic busts out Moffatrocity. I fall off jericho road. My accuracy feels impaired. Its like my balance is off. I start giving myself an internal kicking for my failures, then check myself - must still be ill. Neil Pearsons and Ed Robinson turn up, Nic and Katherine leave. I try the Hulk - cant pull on. I try Sean's - cant do a move! the holds feel BAAAAAD. My skin is for once good. I'm not sweating through the tips but its just not happening. I feel frustrated. I manage to do the Pinch, and start to feel a bit better about myself. Do the Hulk pull on, and think was I just warming up perhaps? Dan Walker arrives. We have a look at Pink Indians. Ed does it (flash? think so). I am scared. Foley goes to Rubicon. I have a look at the pinch sitter. Its awkward rather than hard. I think I could do it on a good day and will add it to the list of things to try. Ed does the Hulk again!!! I'm sure he wont mind my mentioning that it wasnt the most stylish of ascents (see above overdry and not using bad holds) but the style matters not, its done and we saw him.

Ed and Dan go home, I go to Rubicon to meet James. The air is tepid like bath water. My plan for the day/evening had been : meet james at cressbrook. Dazzle him by doing all the problems up to and including the Hulk really casually before heading down the to Rubicon, doing the 'Big Three', then trying the big link. Whereas in fact what actually happened was rather different (at least you should admire my positivity?). Failed on the press first go. Failed on kneeling first go. Whilst I did do both on subsequent goes, this hasnt happened in years. Failed on low right at all (but did only have one go). james and I walk out, I pop in at the tor with a view to the calling of the lime.

Andy Reeve and a chap who I recognise are on Sardine - with headtorches on! waddage! The crag looks bone. Theres still wetness round the right of Pinches wall, but the powerband footholds are dry. Staminaband undercuts dry. I pull on powerband and feel fucked. Have it so wired I get to the end, tap the pocket, drop off and walk away. On the way home I ring the Harris to discuss the lime, but he's busy changing nappies.

Last night I had further car problems, which now point back in turbowards direction.