The Cave of power could also be called the Cave of possibility. Its easy to see how you could climb 8b there. Easy because you chip away at it, its not some huge thing you have to climb from the bottom to the top, you can pull on half way and do a bit, then add a bit to the start and keep working backwards until you get to 8b. Of course, I'm not saying 8b is easy in the cave - far from it, but that like the Kudos wall the sum of its parts equal great things.
All my wangling skills served me yesterday and I found myself enjoying a weekday cave raid. I had a strong team of cave devotees and a great feeling of 'I can' in my belly. I also think the timings were nigh on perfect. Previously I had observed that the sun is on the cave until about 12. Even once in shade you need to allow it to cool, so optimum conditions start after about 1300 (lets say). We arrived about 1430. The difference with this visit was that I both knew what I was going to do (in terms of sequence) and wasnt as ill as last time - the logic being, I nearly did it then, so a bit healthier and it should go down. My objective was Lou Ferrino.
Jim is a warm up genius. Pritch and I stalk around flapping our arms, Nacho ponders holds, but not our Jim, no, he pulls straight on to Clever Beaver! does that a bunch of times with next to no rest between goes, then starts on Broken Heart! to his credit he gets right to the end, everyone is shouting and he tries but misses the slap to the jug. In what seems like no time (is nearly 30 minutes) I am sat beneath Louie. I feel jittery - redpoint nerves. Come on arms, do your stuff. Uncertainty is my master and I fluff off soon after I started. My next go is better and I find myself holding my breath on the end of the ramp. I am puce. I fall off. Somehow the pressure is off, I know I can do it, I've already struggled to the end getting it all wrong, now I just need to engage my brain, relax and tick the box.
I rest properly. Others move pads about and get on with their respective projects and I'm happy for the distraction - its certainly true you can stress yourself out of doing something you want. Pritch pulls on Halfway house. He has a fantastic sequence and it looks so easy. With what seems like no effort he climbs into the start of Trigger cut, locks the first move, turns in, undercut, turn and suddenly his composure wavers, he looks unsure, SLAP! he hits the shot hole but doesnt hold it. I am wild with excitement! I want to sack Louie off and get on Trigger Cut. FOCUS!
My next go is all perfect. I take all the holds that bit better, my body knows what it needs to do and it does it. My respiratory system is still not completely mended from the swine flu, and my breathing is laboured, but I am breathing which is a step in the right direction! I climb the ramp quickly and efficiently, finding and working the position at the end to transition to the drilled pockets. As I take the right hand pocket my toe comes out and for a second I'm footless. Think like Nacho I think, then dismiss the notion and put my feet back on! I pull myself across with an intemediate spike, stuffing my fingers in the rock attrocity slot, I've got it, it feels good and I know its on. I execute the final moves with a grin and nonchalantly match my hand in the slot. Its done! psyched! a ripple of euphoria runs past. For a problem I have spent some time on and driven a fair way for I should be happier. I am happy, it does feel good, but I think it should really have been a bit quicker. The journey has been interesting, and the moves engaging. In short its been worth it. The most interesting thing about opening an account in the cave is what it leads to. Almost as soon as my feet hit the floor I am thinking about Trigger Cut.
Nacho has decided he is going to do Louis Armstrong. When Nacho sets his mind to something, as long as it involves small holds and power - he will do it. I've been watching some pretty impressive links through the afternoon, and I slide into the dirt with my camera as he sets off to try again. This proves a prudent sacrifice of my cleanliness as with apparent ease he grunts through to the crux, eyeballing the ramp he lets rip and nails it with an almighty audible slap! The crowd goes wild, Nacho sucks it up and powers through to victory. Well good effort!
Ben P is still working Halfway, but none of his goes get him back to his best. I go from zero to hero on Trigger cut, locking the first move everytime. Of course, I'm delighted, it looks like its on. I do the next foot move a couple of times but feel horribly out of balance and cant concieve ever holding the undercut. I dont think I'm looking out to sea enough or at all! When my fingers start to hurt I have a quick dalliance with Broken Heart and it feels possible. My heart is still set on TC, but thats out for today. I need to have one primary objective per session I think. Beyond that, everything is money invested but to get multiple pay outs in a single day requires cave fitness I just dont have yet.
When everyone has admitted defeat, Jim and challenge ourselves to some 2b on the right in our trainers. I feel like I am climbing for my life, being totally certain I will fall off at any point and making wild slaps for bad holds. It feels like the hardest I have tried all day. The drive home is uneventful. I hope they fix my car. She and I are going camping in Wales. If it means going in her car I dont think we'll bother.
10 comments:
Dob's new home ;)
"Easy because you chip away at it, its not some huge thing you have to climb from the bottom to the top, you can pull on half way and do a bit, then add a bit to the start and keep working backwards until you get to 8b"
See, this is EXACTLY what I don't like about the cave. You wouldn't pull on half way through Jerry's roof and climb a 7b with a different name so anything other than (silk cut?) starting in a logical place and ending in a logical place seems a little contrived? Is TC really a problem or are you just doing a link on something which is undoubtedly a much harder proposition? It seems to me that people like it as adding a start and a finish to a problem you've already done is much less effort than trying an independent line. Its like doing carnage then sitting on your ass just for the 7c assis tick.
Disclaimer: This is probably all down to the fact that my few visits to the cave have left me spanked, bleeding and bruised.
Isnt this the same for any "sitter". Gecko, Kehops,The Ace... Even Bent Spoon named Voyager Sit Start as "Voyager Sit Start" suggesting an added link to the original problem called Voyager which was seen as an independent line/problem in its own right.
I agree its possible less effort in terms of having to learn a completely different set of holds, but the link ups often create a much different proposition, even on the original problem, perhpas being forced to take the holds differently, different feet, and being exhaustipated?
Anyhoo, with reference to your Disclaimer, the cave spanks me every time...Boo!
I guess so but I think its taken further in the cave than elsewhere as its not as if you start standing and finish at the top is it.
RA starts nowhere and finishes nowhere BUT you can add a start, no doubt a lower start, a left finish or a right finish.
The only other problem I can immediately think of like this is the joker which by admission was only done as a way of working the main goal --> the ace.
stop whinging paul
does it sting doylo?
no it bores me
fair enough... Biographie, realisation?
Nice post Ben, good effort on Lou F, I know exactly what you mean about being pleased to have done it but felt like it should have gone much sooner!
Got me psyched to get back the cave asap :)
I'd love to know what Pritches feet are doing to avoid swinging off the start holds of TC with feet still on the LF ramp crimps!
Good beasting by Nacho too /bow
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