Thursday, 25 February 2010

decision point

This snow is deeply inconvienient. And quite boring. Because of it my friends in Sheffield (heretherafter referred to as Team Sheffield) couldn't cross the snake pass. There are of course other ways to get to Manchester and head westwards, but the key thing here is that when you are making a day raid, you need to be fast. Think alpine style - travel light, travel fast! So, yes - you could have gone over the woodhead if you were absolutely desperate to go, but in a there and back in a day that adds unwanted time to an already long journey. If I had been in Sheffield I wouldn't have bothered.

I had a meeting in Leeds - or so I thought. If i went at all i would be toddling over on my own, and possibly bringing someone back. But I reckoned without the might of a metric tonne of Jim. The key time was 1130, i'd spoken to team sheffield through the morning, prayed for the snakey to open and all but given up hope, then at 1125 I thought, 'I'll just see what Jim is doing' and rang him. He coerced me into going to his house and he would drive from there. I'd somehow become fixated that I would have to drive myself, and its a fuck of a long way on your own. This changed everything. Blazed a trail to Jims, met Lee and nestled into the back of his car. The irony is, my meeting had actually been cancelled - I hadn't needed to go to Leeds at all, so really I should have been at home and therefore not going, so it was all fated to happen...

Not driving is a revelation! As a climber, many of the people you will find yourself sharing cars with will of course be other climbers, and the thing about them is that they hate spending money - usually because they dont have any. Which means, if you then have a better car than the people you are sharing a journey, you will often find yourself driving. I have a shit car (i hate it) but compared to some of the rust buckets I am offered rides in, its like a Bentley! Jim's car on the other hand, top trumps the Chavstra - it even has wipe clean seats in the back (I mean leather).

Like last week, the journey was one made on the strength of the llandudno webcam which showed sunshine. From the pennines east it was minky. From there west it just got better and better. So much so, my cave aspirations were overruled and I was dragged to the mountains. The rules always used to be - if you can, go to the mountains. If you cant - the coast. But then you get all obsessed about the cave and the mountains dont matter much anymore. The thing with the cave is that if you have a basic level of strength the moves are just brilliant. Anyway, we start at the traditional warm up Cromlech roadside. Its a bit wet to be honest, but there's a fair wind whistling down the valley and if anything, its getting drier. Diesel power is wet, the Cromlech roof crack is wet. It is f'in cold. We sack it to Jerry's roof.

There's two youths already camped out. One of whom is on Mr Fantastic. He has a bit of a wack sequence, but its not stopping him - he actually looks like he might do it. We chat - nice lads, and then muscle our way in and get started. Or rather, me and Jim do. Lee has pronounced it too cold and is fully covered back up. I've previously climbed the amazing Jerry's roof, but not any of the other problems on the block. I want to do Mr Fantastic really, but its 8a+ and I dont expect it to be possible in a day (I am not Ned), and, it finishes up Bus Stop - which is the sort of grade I would expect to be able to knock off in an afternoon. I get involved and after a bit of fannying around and jessery, I strip things back to basics and do the problem. Although theres an argument that says I should have been trying Mr F, this I knew I could do, and its better to get something in the bank I think.

Jim inches closer and closer to Jerry's roof. He is falling off at the swing (crux) and being able to continue from there to the top. Nodder phones, Lee arranges that he bring us coffees. I feel a bit like I might have had too much red bull, but anyway - a hot drink would be nice. Youth unknown continues to put in good links on Mr F, he's falling off into Bus Stop, so with a bit of refinement....

If I had a specialist subject within climbing, it would be the shoulder press. Mr Fantastic involves a massive one. Its probably the crux. I think I manage the move on my second or third go, and then its because I've sorted out my feet better. Hmm - this is exciting! Anyway, I keep doing the move but not getting out of it - there's a swing to hold, and the youth (bless him) has a wack sequence. Pete Robins turns up. He has a much better sequence. I can now get out of doing the swing. End the day because it is going dark, and I am wilting, but have done it in two halves. Projects are funny things, you wait for one for ages, and then three come along at once!

We go with Pete and Rach to the Vaynol arms (great pub) and have a quick pint before driving back first to Jim's and then home to Sheffers. Brilliant day.

5 comments:

Fiend said...

Good update Doblog, nice one.

Jerry's Roof is essentially The Cave of the mountains though!!

Richie Crouch said...

Sounds like a great day out. I'm most suprised Lee wasn't climbing! ;)

Be keen to hear of the swing killing beta!

I've always just dug my right toe into a small black dink low down then held the left leg swing out and back in again, then do the first bus stop move wrong handed... Then inevitably fail due to power out, trying to get up to the fingerjug!

dobbin said...

Yeah, that's the wack method! So, what you do is with both hands in the start of bus stop and your left in the foot jug, you step right though onto nubbin essentially beside foot, then left out of the jug onto another just above, now right again onto normal busstop foot hold - start bus stop! Brilliant

Paul Bennett said...

Can I ask Dob, which of the holds were you going to and therefore pressing?
My absolutely appalling sequence is shown here:
http://thecrippledclimber.blogspot.com/2009/03/welsh-weekend-round-up.html
and basically all depended on the thumb on the right hand being in an awkward position, then doing a violent fall into the higher hold and a pop. I couldn't seem to make usable contact with the further hold.

dave said...

Sounds awful complicated that does, what you want are longer arms. I definatly didn't bring coffee or phone. Unkown youth tall with dark hair?