Saturday 3 March 2007

Four wheel drive

Been meaning to write up the last few days for er, the last few days! Wednesday - went to Leeds on my own. It was TC's last day at work and he went to the Pub to celebrate. Felt sad, but went to the wall anyway. Climbed ok, codfinger fine. Thursday went to the board to get filmed by Ben and Rich - descovered I was camera shite and only managed a couple of worthwhile ascents - fell off the school boy, which hasnt happened in ages. Codfinger bad. Friday day - cod finger way sore. Resigned self to having at least a week off. Afternoon came and the end of the working week loomed near, excitement about going to wales tempered by the cod finger and no hope of good weather but keen to get out nonetheless. James at work asked if I would drive him to CHester to collect his racing car for him to drive back, agreed on the basis that we drive in his company car and that I would get to keep it for the weekend.... agreed! a brand new Mk5 golf GT TDi 4Motion all weekend! fab. Caned it back to sheffield to find a dead bird on our bed. Cheers cat. Went to the pub on own, for a quiet pint and quick blog write up and run into friends - get drunk. Bugger. Drink not enough water and go to bed (have removed bird and changed all sheets).

Up early for assault on Wales. Weather filthy. Cane it across the snake - 19 mins from pub in sheff to first buildings in Glossop (no, not the house on the corner). Pick Ed up and by Chester its sunny - hooray! text Doyle and weather reports sound good. Make it to the cave for about 1040 - fully wet. The rail on Lou Ferrino is pooling and there's no hope of getting it done. Last hold on Rock Attrocity is fully soaked, even Left Wall Trav has streaks of wetness. Text Doyle and announce we are going to go to the Pass. Arrive and warm up on Roadside, marvel at the boulder the rescue dudes had to prise apart to rescue a fat student. Codfinger feels ok. Both not feeling amazing but press on to Jerrys Roof. Ed puts in a good link from the pinchy jump thing and a couple of goes later so do I. We brush the holds and wait. Ed decides to work out the start. Pulls on, moves into the match, up through the crimps, to the pinch, he's held the swing! feet swing in and he takes the lip, I'm shouting instructions and he's pulling round - its in the bag!
here

7 comments:

Unknown said...

how jealous am i.
i don't even really have time to ge out today, cos i've got to revise.
hope pinky is ok

Unknown said...

Good report of a good day. Sort of strange as we were out all day, but only actually climbed a few things, but it still felt very productive... I suppose the trip to the pass was fully unexpected and then to tick a problem off my ever increasing list was just sweet. When it came to the crunch, it felt pretty steady (dont they always). Would have been nice to do the LWT, but poor endurance, too long a break and unfamiliarity conspired otherwise.

Hope the finger still feels good. Maybe give it a few days off to make sure. Cheers for driving.

dobbin said...

Feels wierdly fine to be honest, cant quite fathom it. Sore to the touch, but drags are ok. Going to the board tonight to do some ring work and some campooos.

Dunno if heap wants to film again this thurs - kind of hope he doesnt, then I can go to the foundry. Is it too soon to be putting a rope in my bag?

Unknown said...

Hey! Whos that good looking fellow pinching that sloper?? Nice pics.

I found out that Colette has shoehorned a bunch of private pupils into tonight so our pad will be over-run with inept musicians until 8.30, so I am going to scuttle over to sheffield and probably visit the Foundry for some campus work myself, but then there is a board in a delapidated academic centre high on a sheffield hillside...hmmm....

Unknown said...

some extreme colour co-ordination going on there.
so what went down at le college?
school thursday? I'm keen as is le sausage, and goose creature. pulled my bicep a bit at the foundry yesterday. gonna hit the works tomorrow night...
was starting to think you aspirant climber, I'm tempted to boulder all year. I'm pretty psyched by hitting the cave in preference to the cove and kilnsey (won't be all the yorkshire miserys there!) of course therre's always the same routes for me to fail on at the tor too...
i'm talking shit ignore me, i'll be well keen.
anyway school thursday. reckon routes start about april, (top roping helmut schmidt)

Unknown said...

whats your asssessment of the car?

bonjoy said...

Good work on Jerry's Colette (strange name for a man).
Like the man says, I'm keen for Works tonight and School Thurs. Took it easy over the weekend so hoping to feel a bit more energised at the wall today, fingers crossed.
Had a lovely easy day bouldering and soloing between High Neb and Stanage End with Rhys, Keenus and some guys from Hot Aches Productions. Nearly did a three star E4 6b called No More Excuses, but bottled the last hard move. Did a few nice obscure things out of the new Stanage Script (have advance copy for proof reading). Then we went over to Low Rider for James to attempt a flash. I demoed it in two halves, after getting to the last moves on first go. James did pretty well getting to the tricky end moves but didn't manage the flash. We both had a few more goes but no sends were in the bag.