Tuesday 13 March 2007

Too fluffy to be ticked!

What a suprise! started at the board yesterday feeling rubbish - codfinger was hurty and I figured I wouldnt really climb, rather I would do some campusing. After a bit of that I pulled on and finger felt ok, so I think I must have taped it too tight or something. Anyway, did a few steady problems and didnt feel great - a bit tired (more on that in a minute) so got on pego, did that and felt quite ok on the jump move, which is unusual, as I find it hard. Then I thought I would just try the top of too fluffy, and put in a good link from the jump to the green pinch to the top. Have done that before, so pleased and a bit suprised but not amazed - yet! Roy comes in, not seen him for a while, so catch up for a bit and have a couple more ranging goes. Pull on the start and nail through to the wooden right hand slat, left foot smears on undercut resin and I jump for the pinch - comfortably make the distance but the motion in the ocean is all wrong and I drop it. Have a rest, put hands in front of the fan and pull on again, this time when I step through to the green undercut I feel right, just in the right position I suppose, leap and nail the pinch! awesome! feet go to the green sidepull and I come in for the wooden triangle, adjust the feet and take a second to eyeball c45 - I'm there, caught it good and bump right hand to the top holds - get in!!!!! My first board 8a! huzzah! my first 8a anywhere! Cant quite believe it! send out a text to a few friends in shock!

Went back on it to film an ascent but foot popped off on the last jump to c45... Here is what I have : http://www.youtube.com/v/52R2UwZ9VJc

2 comments:

Paul Bennett said...

Good effort, im suprised you haven't done this sooner, you cruised it from pretty low down last time I saw you up there....
Not sure about this foot pinching malarky... Whats next stuey? Snot? the delights keep on coming.

Unknown said...

whats the plan?
lets school it keith and le sausage are keen. we can hit the foundry when its raining at the weekend.