Saturday 10 March 2007

back on top?

Jon is having a lull. He's probably been overdoing it or something. He isnt feeling sparky climbing and doesnt think is realising his potential. Personally, I think its that when he is climbing with me I am so good he feels that he's rubbish - well, who wouldnt? I am amazing. Sometimes I fall off to make the others feel good. Honest, thats why I fall off.

Jon is a Peak hero remember, and for me a very inspiring climber. When I am sat beneath something wondering what more I can give I think of the jonboy patent pending yelp and extra effort. I have got to harness this and use it to my advantage.

Sometimes you dont feel great and you dont climb as well as you know you could - going back to the 9-5'vers lot discussion of a couple of weeks ago (and more or less Jon's last post - keep up boy!) so many things come into the equation - tiredness, diet, stress, sleep patterns - sometimes it might be that you are just under the weather. Theres no point stressing about it, you just have to accept that you arent always going to be at your best and drop your grade and remember why we go climbing.

Anyway, been a few days since I have been on here whining about how rubbish I am. Wednesday - went to the Leeds wall. Met Ed Brown and Pip. Helen Davies from work wanted to come down to the wall but I think was disappointed that she was left to her own devices. Sorry love, but I have only a 2hr session and I am going climbing. You are welcome to come for a lift but you can chuffing well pay if you want instruction! Lovely to see Ed Brown and Pip - such a nice couple. Ben Meeks tells me I am in a climbing magazine. God knows which one - its not gravity, Climb or Friction. Rather characteristically I am not climbing but stood gormlessly looking at a wall - can only imagine I must be in background.

Thursday - the board wrecking session. Ed Robinson feeling rubbish too so no human pinching machine to contend with. Arrange with Dr F to meet at normal time at the board. James - I want to go to the foundry. You will be putting a harness on. Back to the board, Keith and JLS are there and JLS is actually climbing for a change! keith looks fiercely strong and is bearing down. Tom Briggs and Rachel turn up - the key is in the box you lazy twat! Sure there is something going on there. Anyway, I dont do anything hard but have a pretty good session, feel that I climb well and manage basic Ben (2nd go), pego goes to albuquerque, schoolboy (2nd go), woodlogy elim and nearly that thing of jons that jumps for the resin rail. On finishing, nearly do 1-5-8 on big rungs, very pleased. James and I spend much of evening giggling - what better way is there to spend a night?

Friday - work like a dog, run 8.5km - slowly. To rubbish pub (porter brook) where Si and Diane announce they are pregnant! delighted for them.

Saturday - at work from 0730 - 1800. Ring Sam to ask if ok to go to works (its been shut for student comp) and head down there for an hour. Problems on comp wall v.tricky! drop them left right and centre - never mind. Now watching 24 and drinking beer (which may be obvious).

6 comments:

Paul Bennett said...

sublux or fullwoodology...keep up...

Do you really believe working has that much effect on your actual ability to train or is it the other stuff, i.e. ability to recover? I've been thinking about this and I don't reckon myself and other layabout students do any more climbing than your goodself and Mr. Fullwood. however we are then able to spend large portions of the day on our arse doing very little, unlike 9-5 ers... Just a thought, plenty of time to think at the moment.
Might see you up the board sometime, can't quite work out whether I should or not...
Keep strong, in general it sounds like your going well! how was the golf4motion?

bonjoy said...

Guten tag!
Decided to rest on Thursday. It must have done some good as I was climbing ok outside on. Did a couple of great 7Cs at the Roaches on Sat, Tetris (very soft, but great) and Who Needs Ready Brek (brilliant technical crimp nasty witha airy highball last move). Had a brief play on Mushin, but was too tired by then to try hard. Think I need to do some campussing to do that one.
Had an ok day at RHS/Cratcliff yesterady. Have done most of the probs there already so sessions always tend to involve mileage on old favourites. Did Ben's Wall 7c, Jerry's Arete 7a, Grizly Arete 7a+ and P Crack 7b. Also did a couple I hadn't done before, the start to Chess Boxer 7a+ and a new prob up the left arete of Dry Whit at highball Fnt6c-ish.
Back to wall Tues. Where are people heading, School, Works?

Paul - Working certainly limits my climbing. It means I'm forced to climb at certain times regardless of how I'm feeling. It means I get less sleep, so less recovery. I can climb outside less which has negative effects on motivation and makes it frustrating/impractical to project things. If I didn't work i'd climb more days on but do less spread per sesh, which I think would give better results.

dobbin said...

Although the amount of climbing may not be that different, its the amount of recovery and quality of sleep that counts and makes the difference! As a student you have only to worry about where you will store the stolen roadsigns and traffic cones, whilst we taxpaying citizens worry about whether we are going to be uncovered as the daydreaming workshy fop everyone expected we were all along.

Its all about the sleeping in mate.

Unknown said...

i haven't slept for more than 7hours in the last 18days. that makes you tired. i felt like a well oiled machine when i spent 3months in france, never tired. well except for third day on redpoining, but another 13hours in my sleeping bag and i'm ready to crank. 5hours sleep in a manky hospital bed, just having had a shower to get blood off the guy with dic, not conducive. and now i have to go to the northern...
oh yes i'm not impressed that i worked the weekend it was nice for once!!
anyway i like work, i like getting payed. i'd be fuck bored if all i did was climb. i'd be substantially less interesting too. bigger picture, get a job.
ps i'm not a 9-5er.

Paul Bennett said...

Jon - Who Needs Ready Brek looks amazing, I remember seeing a pic of BB on it ages ago, it looked very hard?

Unknown said...

Agreed, Not only about rest, but also WEHN you can actually climb. Obviously it has to be after work, but there are also restrictions in some cases as to which days in the week (cf: James. In my own sad case, I have to drive over to frickin Sheff to climb adding a 45 minute trip each way. Extra grim (and expensive...). Take this week for example, I am part of large World Health Organisation conference which means that I am having to attend evening functions wednesday and thursday night, wont be in sheff friday as we will be there on saturday (climbing plus Heads birthday do)and I wont have seen much of Colette, this leaves me with already very limited options...
Anyhooo, Good work on WNRB John. Excellent send. That Mushin' felt hard, although I now feel that if I can swap toehooks before the cutloose, there might be a chance to hit the jug.... It will be wet now for the forseeable future. Been raining badly here. Grrreat.