For the first time I managed to climb an 8a boulder problem. I have been focussed on this as a goal for some time and it feels like a milestone - its the obvious milestone, because its the change in number from 7 to 8, also its taken some effort. Should be able to do 7b+ in a session, 7c depends - if they are basic should be ok. 7c+ feels hard and takes some work, but 8a seems like real brick hard. So, I'm pleased, pleased but as I found when I first did an 8a route, I just want + now!
Arranged to be out early on Saturday, so was good on Friday night. 9am loaded the car and collected Ned. Blazed a trail to rubicon - noone there - lovely. Warmed up, pretty achey from Thursdays body anhilation on kudos wall still, but movement eased the aches. Did the press. Did the press with rh on hold in the rail. Did the kneeling press - 5 mins off. Cleaned all the holds, pulled on and nailed it! There's a 'go/no-go' point when you nail the gaston with your left, shoulder it and lock through to the press edge - you could drop it here too - paste left foot and flick to the jug - hurrah! its done! continue on to the top for posterity. Here is the vid :
Relief! well, not that much - after Thursday nights session I knew I could do the low right start, and I hoped that it would go pretty quickly. Just prayed it would be all right, and thankfully it was. You put so much effort in, and care so much about doing something that inspires you, its a weight off to get it done.
I felt a bit of an anti climax when I dropped off the top holds. There was no massive swell of excitement, or at least not then. I did spend the rest of the weekend in a good mood! Honestly, there was a lot of me that wanted to do the problem becuase it was 8a, and some of my friends have been saying - about time, but I dont think it was - now was the time, I havent been ready until now and thats why I hadnt done one yet. I hope that by removing the stigma around the grade I can avoid psyching myself out in the future. Certainly the difference from 8a to 8a+ feels less about the numbers and more about the physical - can I do it? I hope so!
On thursday nights session I had worked the low left start and had been confidently getting into the position where you go up into the gaston from low right, so the obvious thought process was - given that I am doing low left in two sections and its a grade harder, then thats what I should be aiming for - Tsunami can wait!
Cleaned the holds again and had a couple of ranging goes - trouble making the foot stick, but made some good progress. Pulled on from the sloper and did it to the top, and had three or four really good attempts where I fell with my right on the press crimp - one of them slapping the jug! Awesome - its on again - for the next level!
So, with that as my goal and motivation I am going to head out this week in the hope of doing it! am dead excited! its great to actually get up something for once! Hope it doesnt massively rain! !!!
5 comments:
Nice one hero!!! You look smooth on the vid.
You thinking of heading back this week? Am keen for rubbery+cress on Tues and/or Thurs, after work, weather permitting.
Cheers grandmaster flash. Your wisdom has served me well. I will be back on Wednesday I think. Thursday is now out as it looks like I am having to go to London so have skewed everything back a day or so.
managed to do the first move on the hulk as well - static - TC beta I couldnt make work now does! (wierd)
What's this (static) beta for Hulk then yoot?
Have got what feels like a decent sequence, but always hungry for more. Can do all the moves ok, just having trouble doing move two on the link.
Its all in the right foot. TC said to push on with left foot and then claw the right into the superman dish, then you can make the first move static. Sadly I dont know what to do after that. Either left or right hand? I'm not sure - left feels natural but I am hitting the sloper at speed, and I need to slow it down.
Go with RH again. The key for this move is to put RF on the big scoop foot hold and LF on a black toe smear out left. RF comes off as you hit the sloper. Then put RF back on where it was before and match sloper with help of a LF toe-hook.
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